Fruits of Spring

Published by Tribune Media Services May 2010

As the days grow longer and warmer, thoughts turn to spring and all the sweet, succulent fruit that it brings. From plump cactus pears to stalky rhubarb produce stands come alive with the bounty of the season.

Native to the arid regions of the U.S., Mexico and Central and South America, the juicy cactus pear get its name from its spiky skin and pear shape. Also known as the prickly pear, its firm rind ranges in color from green to purplish-red.

Bite into the cactus pear’s golden, melon-scented flesh and you experience a sweet potpourri of flavors. Depending on the variety, it will bring to mind a strawberry, watermelon, honeydew, fig or banana. Because the cactus pear lacks acidity, it tastes best when sprinkled with lime or lemon juice.

Fortunately, the cactus pear’s needles are removed before being shipped to markets. To prepare it, simply slice the skin away from the pulpy flesh and then cut the pear into wedges lengthwise. Although the fruit’s black seeds are edible, they, too, can be removed before serving.

Cactus pear makes a pleasant addition to fruit and mixed greens salads. Pureed, it can be blended with equal parts tequila, triple sec and lime juice for a flavor-packed margarita or mixed with olive oil and white wine vinegar for well-balanced salad dressing.

Ever present in the produce aisle, the lemon hits its prime in the springtime. In the U.S. California is the largest lemon grower; in fact, since the mid 1950’s it has produced more lemons than all of Europe combined.

A relative of the lime and citron, lemons perform multiple roles in the kitchen. Wedges serve as garnishes for seafood and drinks while the zest acts as a flavor enhancer in stuffing and baked goods.
The juice pumps up the flavor in such fruits as peaches, nectarines, guava and papaya. It also balances out rich sauces and vinaigrettes and works as a preservative and anti-browning agent for fragile foods.

Lemons keep at room temperature for one week or in the refrigerator for one month. Choose plump, firm lemons that are heavy for their size. Avoid overly large ones as they will contain mostly peel and little juice.

Named for its resemblance to a pinecone, the spiny, green-topped pineapple got its start in the lowlands of Brazil. In the 18th century Spanish explorers brought it to America, specifically to Hawaii, where it has thrived ever since.

A seedless fruit that is grown through cuttings, the tangy-sweet pineapple peaks from March to June. When ripe, its rind varies in color from dark green to orange-yellow. Deep green leaves, flat eyes and a pleasant aroma are also indicate freshness.

To trim a pineapple, cut off the top and bottom and then, sitting the fruit upright, pare the skin from top to bottom. From here either cut into wedges or slice into circles and remove the core with a cookie cutter.

When sprinkled with brown sugar and rum and then grilled or broiled, fresh, juicy pineapple makes a decadent dessert. Slices of it compliment grilled lamb, seafood and stir fries and decorate the eponymous pineapple-upside down cake.

Resembling ruby red stalks of celery, wild rhubarb got its start in Asia. This tangy perennial flourishes in cool weather from the months of April to June.

Because of its intense tartness, rhubarb is invariably paired with a generous amount of sugar. Once sweetened, it creates velvety jams, sauces and desserts such as rhubarb crumble, trifle, and pie. American cooks commonly combine it with strawberries while their English counterparts partner it with ginger.

When selecting rhubarb, look for moderately thin, pink or red stalks. Thicker, greenish stalks will be sour and stringy. Use non-aluminum cookware with this fruit; otherwise, the rhubarb will react with the metal.

A late spring bloomer, the apricot has its roots in ancient China. Today it makes its home in California, which provides 90% of America’s apricot crops. Related to the peach and plum, this firm yet delicate fruit runs from pale yellow to burnt orange on the outside and cream to bright orange flesh.

Once pitted, apricots can be stuffed with almonds or almond paste for a decadent dessert. They also make delectable preserves that fill cakes, tortes, Danishes and cookies and accent pilafs, tagines and lamb dishes. Roasted, their smooth stones flavor liqueurs.

Buy plump, uniformly colored apricots. Placed in a plastic bag and refrigerated, this highly perishable fruit will keep for five days.

Chicken, Apricot and Almond Tagine
Serves 6

6 boneless chicken breasts
1 large white onions, finely grated
3 cloves of garlic, peeled and crushed
1 tablespoon fresh ginger, peeled and grated
1/4 teaspoon turmeric
¾ teaspoon saffron threads
5 tablespoons olive oil
1 ½ teaspoons sea salt
1 ½ teaspoons ground black pepper
1 tablespoon fresh parsley, chopped
1 cinnamon stick
10 dried apricots, chopped
3 tablespoons apricot preserves
¼ cup blanched almonds, toasted and chopped
water

Place the chicken breasts on a large plate.

Put the onions, garlic, ginger, turmeric, saffron and olive oil in a bowl and whisk to combine. Pour the marinade over the chicken breasts. Cover the plate, refrigerate, and allow the chicken to marinate for an hour.

Place a tagine or Dutch oven on the stove on medium heat. Arrange chicken so that it covers the bottom of the tagine or pan. Pour the marinade and sprinkle the salt and pepper over the top of chicken breasts.

Add enough water to cover 2/3 of the chicken. Bring the water to a boil then reduce to a simmer. Cover and cook for 1 hour, turning over the chicken periodically so that it does not brown on one side or stick to the pan.

Add the parsley, cinnamon stick, dried apricots and apricot preserves to the tagine. Cover and cook for 10 to 15 minutes to reduce the sauce and meld the flavors together. Remove from heat, sprinkle the almonds over the top and serve alone or with a side of couscous.

Lemon-Rhubarb-Strawberry Trifle
Serves 8 to 10

½ cup sugar
¼ cup cornstarch
2 ½ cups whole milk
zest of 2 washed and dried lemons
4 egg yolks
pinch of salt
½ cup lemon juice
4 cups rhubarb, washed and cut into 1” pieces
¾ cup granulated sugar
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
¼ teaspoon ginger
¼ cup water
2 cups strawberries, washed and sliced
2 cups ginger snaps, crushed
whipped cream, for topping

In a medium-sized saucepan whisk together the sugar, cornstarch and milk. Add the egg yolks and zest and, stirring frequently, cook the ingredients over medium heat until thickened. Remove from heat and add the lemon juice, stirring to combine. Cool before covering and refrigerating to chill completely.

Place the rhubarb, ½ cup strawberries, sugar, cinnamon and water in a medium-sized, stainless steel saucepan and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and continue to simmer for 5 to 10 minutes, until the rhubarb has softened and the mixture thickened. Remove from heat and set aside to cool.

Tumble 1 cup of crushed ginger snaps into the bottom of a large, glass serving bowl.
Spoon half of the custard over the cookies, followed by the rhubarb mixture and then ¾ cup of fresh strawberries. Repeat these steps again. Cover and refrigerate for at least one hour. Before serving, spoon whipped cream over the top of the trifle.

Pineapple Sorbet
Serves 6 to 8

1 (3 lb) pineapple, peeled, cored and cut into chunks
½ cup granulated sugar
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

Place the pineapple chunks, half of the sugar and lemon juice in the bowl of a blender or food processor. Due to size constraints you may have to do this in batches. Blend until smooth and taste to ensure that the mixture is sweet enough. If not, add as much of the remaining sugar as needed.

Chill the mixture. If you own an ice cream maker, make the sorbet according to the manufacturer’s instructions. If you do not own this device, place the pineapple slush in a shallow, metal baking pan and leave in the freezer until almost frozen. Remove and, using either the blender or food processor, blend until smooth. Place in a freezer-safe container, cover and freeze until ready to use. Scoop and serve in bowls or in a half of a hollowed-out pineapple.

© 2010, Kathy Hunt. Distributed by Tribune Media Services Inc.

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