Published in the Daily News-Miner on October 22, 2008

As a child, I could think of no words more terrifying at dinnertime than “cabbage” or “Brussels sprouts.” Invariably overcooked, and as a result limp and smelling of rotten eggs, these nutritious, cruciferous vegetables became the bane of family meals.

As my dread of these two grew, so did my deceptive eating habits. When my parents weren’t looking, I slipped chunks of cabbage and individual Brussels sprouts beneath the table to a dog that would, and did, eat anything, tucked the offending sides into my napkin or hid them beneath an untouched slice of bread. Whatever I could do I did to avoid eating that night’s veg.

Twenty years later I am pleased to report that my fear of cabbage and its miniature version, Brussels sprouts, has come to a happy end. I owe this breakthrough to learning how to select, store and prepare these vitamin C-rich plants.

An ancient vegetable dating back 4000 years, cabbage counts more than 400 members in its family. Broccoli, kale, cauliflower and kohlrabi belong to this brood, along with my two childhood nemeses.

Cabbage also comes in a range of shapes, colors and textures: Heads may be round, conical or flat, compact or loose. Colors vary from white, green, purple or red. Leaves may be smooth or, in the case of the green Savoy, crinkly.

What all good cabbages have in common are crisp yet pliable leaves and firm, un-cracked, heavy heads. The absence of yellow or brown spots and lack of odor also indicate quality produce.

Uncut, unwashed and stored in a perforated plastic bag in a refrigerator’s crisper drawer, a cabbage may last for up to two weeks. A cut cabbage lasts about two days before the flavor starts to fade.

It’s better to jump right in and cook a cabbage right after buying it. A versatile vegetable, it partners well with smoked or salted meats, root vegetables, apples, chestnuts, and such flavorings as vinegar, lemon, sage, thyme, nutmeg and juniper berries.

Before cooking a cabbage, I first rinse, drain, and remove any wilted leaves. Unless I plan on steaming and filling the leaves, I quarter the head and cut out the core.

What I do next depends upon my intended dish. Rather than rely upon tired family recipes for meat-stuffed cabbage or boiled ham, potato and cabbage, I look to European history and cooks for culinary inspiration.

Classical Greeks prepared cabbage with a dash of coriander and honey vinegar, while Romans ate it raw with a splash of vinegar or boiled and served it with cumin, salt and oil. Germans sliced then submerged it in salt to ferment and create sauerkraut. Today Turks stuff green cabbage leaves with chestnuts, rice, cinnamon and allspice, while Italians fill wrinkled Savoys with mozzarella cheese.

Because it grows easily and thrives in cold, harsh climates, cabbage has long been a favorite in Northern Europe. In fact, in Stockholm, Sweden, Kendal von Sydow’s refrigerator overflows year-round with this nourishing produce.

“It’s one of these funny, unglamorous vegetables that’s very healthy and very down home,” says Kendal, an ardent cook and corporate communications manager who subscribes to a weekly organic food delivery service, Ekoladan.

On any given night, Kendal may toss her abundance of cabbage into a salad, turn it into a hearty, aromatic soup, or thinly slice and stir-fry it with tofu, red peppers, carrots, garlic and light sesame oil. Stir-frying allows the leaves to retain their crisp texture and flavor, and reduces the risk of that pungent smell.

In Belgium, Brussels sprouts dominate the produce stands. Resembling tiny, green cabbages clinging to the sides of tall, thick stalks, they are uniquely Belgian. Although scholars debate about how long ago the sprouts were first cultivated — some say as early as the 12th century, others say as late as the 18th — their name accurately points to their point of origin around what is today the Belgian capital.

Prized for their sweet nuttiness and petite form, Brussels sprouts are tenderest and most flavorful when 1 to 1 1/2 inches in diameter. Like cabbage, they prosper in cold weather and develop their delicate taste after the first frost.

When shopping for Brussels sprouts, I look for small, firm, bright green heads and compact leaves. I avoid large, soft or yellow ones, as they tend to be old and bitter. If I happen upon sprouts still attached to their stalk, I opt for the smallest stalk. It will contain the youngest and best tasting sprouts.

Unwashed, individual sprouts will keep in a plastic bag in the refrigerator crisper for up to three days. Those on the stalk can be plucked off and stored the same way.

Unsurprisingly, Brussels sprouts mimic cabbage in both flavor affinities and preparation techniques. Overcooking them likewise releases sulfur compounds. To avoid this odor, I boil them until just tender, about 6 to 12 minutes for whole ones and 4 to 7 minutes for those halved from top to bottom. I also apply the cook-until-tender rule when steaming, baking and sauteing.

For recipes I turn to Belgium. In previous centuries, Brussels sprouts were usually pan-fried in lard. Today, however, they appear in gratins, soups, sautes and even stir fries.

In Dominique Riat’s Brussels kitchen, these green orbs star in a savory, potato-crusted casserole. After sauteing the sprouts with bits of bacon, Dominique tumbles them into a buttered baking dish, sprinkles them with black pepper, and blankets them with hot mashed potatoes. He then slides the casserole beneath his oven broiler where it stays until turning golden brown on top.

What Dominique adores about this vegetable are its nutritious qualities and ready availability. Yet, these are not the only attractions. “I would put flavor first, followed by the ease of preparation,” he says of his passion for Brussels sprouts.

No more hiding these wholesome vegetables or pawning them off on my canine buddy. Strong endorsements and delectable recipes have made a believer out of me.

ELISABETH AXELSSON’S CABBAGE SOUP
Serves 6
Passed down from cook and nonagenarian Elisabeth Axelsson of Koping, Sweden, this aromatic soup is the perfect antidote to a cold, dreary day.

1 medium onion, finely chopped
2 tablespoons sunflower seed oil
3 1/3 to 3 1/2 ounces bulgur
6 1/2 cups vegetable stock
2 to 3 small carrots, peeled and grated
5 ounces of green cabbage, grated
2 bay leaves
2 teaspoons dried thyme, or to taste
2 teaspoons marjoram, or to taste
6 to 8 tablespoons tomato puree
3/4 cup canned or pre-cooked navy beans

In a large, non-reactive metal stockpot heat the sunflower oil on medium-high heat. Add the onion and saute until soft. Add the bulgur and saute lightly. Pour in the vegetable stock, bring the liquid to a simmer and cook for 5 minutes.

Add the carrots, cabbage, bay leaves, thyme, marjoram and tomato puree and stir to combine. Cook for 15 minutes or until the bulgur is done.

Add the navy beans, stir and serve.

SAVOY-PROVOLONE ENVELOPES
Serves 6 to 8

2-pound head of Savoy cabbage, washed
1/2 pound provolone cheese, sliced
1/4 cup grated Pecorino Romano cheese
Freshly ground white pepper, to taste
3 cups tomato sauce, warmed
Scant amount of grated Pecorino Romano cheese for serving

Pre-heat the oven to 350 degrees F.

Steam the head of Savoy cabbage until tender but still firm, about 25 minutes. When finished steaming, a fork or skewer inserted into the core will come out smoothly. Allow the cabbage to cool.

Gently remove the cabbage leaves, shaking off any excess moisture, and lay them out individually on a flat work surface. Place a slice of provolone cheese in the center of each leaf. Sprinkle Romano cheese and a dash of ground pepper onto the provolone.

Fold the bottom portion of the leaf upward and then fold in the sides, followed by the top edge. You should end up with something resembling an envelope. Repeat the same step for each leaf.

Evenly distribute 1 1/2 cups of tomato sauce in the bottom of a large porcelain baking dish. Lay the cabbage folded side down in the baking dish and cover with the remaining sauce. Place the dish in the preheated oven and bake for 15 minutes, until the sauce is bubbling. Sprinkle the remaining Romano cheese on top and serve.

ROASTED GARLIC, CHESTNUTS AND BRUSSELS SPROUTS
Serves 8

2 pounds fresh or frozen Brussels sprouts, halved from top to bottom
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 cup roasted chestnuts, roughly chopped
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Pre-heat the oven to 425 degrees F.

Place the Brussels sprouts, garlic, olive oil, chestnuts, salt and pepper in a large baking dish. Toss the ingredients together, spread them in a single layer and bake until tender, about 25 minutes. Serve immediately.

SAUTEED BRUSSELS SPROUTS
Serves 4

1 pound fresh or frozen Brussels sprouts
1/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon chicken stock
Juice of 1/2 lemon
Salt to taste, but not necessary if the stock is already salted

Heat the chicken stock in a saute pan. Add the Brussels sprouts and saute on medium to medium-high until tender, 5 to 7 minutes.

Tumble the sprouts into a serving bowl, sprinkle with lemon juice and salt and serve.

© 2008, Kathy Hunt. Distributed by Tribune Media Services Inc.