Published in the Pittsburgh Tribune Review on April 11, 2010
Published in the Detroit News on May 20, 2010
Published in the Chicago Tribune on June 4, 2010

With its delicate, coral flesh and mild savoriness smoked salmon has become the darling of the brunch table. Layered atop a cream cheese-covered bagel or served alongside capers and crème fraiche, it lends a touch of elegance and healthfulness to the buffet.

Yet, it can do much more than act as a fancy finger food. Whether featured in a pasta dish, incorporated into a salad or filling a fajita, smoked salmon is a versatile, multi-faceted fish.

Although considered a delicacy, smoked salmon has quite humble beginnings. Born out of necessity, smoking was the means by which medieval Europeans, particularly in Scotland and Ireland, ensured that their bountiful salmon catches would remain edible throughout the year.

To preserve their fish, the anglers would first clean and fillet their salmon. They then sprinkled salt and sugar onto the flesh, stacked the fillets on top of each other and inserted them into an active smokehouse. There the salmon would remain in roughly 75 to 85 degree Fahrenheit temperature until smoked completely.

Unlike the tender, moist products of today, the early European versions had a tough texture reminiscent of jerky. They also possessed a strong, salty tang that differed greatly from the present day’s milder flavor.

While the taste and texture have evolved over the years, what hasn’t changed is its healthfulness. Rich in omega-3 fatty acids, smoked salmon remains a high protein, low calorie food.

Likewise, the smoking process itself has stayed the same. Fresh salmon continues to be cured with salt and sugar before being placed inside a warm, smoke-filled smokehouse, commercial smoker or grill. Hardwoods such as oak or hickory persist as the preferred smoke producers.

The salmon rests inside the smoking vessel until it has developed a firm, shiny crust and its interior flesh becomes opaque but not dry. Depending on the amount of salmon smoked and the intensity of flavor desired, this will take anywhere from 30 minutes to three days. Note that most commercially produced salmon is lightly smoked.

Wrapped in plastic and refrigerated, smoked salmon will keep for a week. Double bagged in plastic freezer bags, it can be frozen for six months. Freezing smoked salmon does alter its silky texture and taste so, if possible, refrigerate rather than freeze it.

With such a divine treat on hand, smoked salmon is usually devoured long before its ‘consume by’ date. Although purists may opt to eat it with a dusting of ground pepper and on a cracker, bagel or slice of rye or pumpernickel bread, a wealth of hot and cold recipes exist.
Consider an updated croque-monsieur or eggs Benedict where smoked salmon replaces the ham. For breakfast sample a smoked salmon quiche, omelet or frittata or smoked salmon wrap, pasta or polenta at dinner.

Prefer cold dishes? Try a chopped smoked salmon-avocado-tomato-red onion salad, smoked salmon and cucumber tea sandwiches or smoked salmon gazpacho or vichyssoise soup.

Crave a simpler offering? Make a platter of smoked salmon-cucumber coins.
To create this dish, wash and then cut a cucumber into rounds. Drape a slice of smoked salmon on top of each circle. Place a dollop of sour cream or crème fraiche, followed by a sprig of fresh dill or a few capers, onto the salmon and serve.

Along with dill, crème fraiche, cucumbers, capers, sour cream and cream cheese, smoked salmon pairs well with a long list of foods. This includes hard-boiled eggs, garlic, leeks, lemon juice, potatoes and potato salad, shallots and vinaigrette. Avoid coupling it with yogurt or mayonnaise as these produce unpalatable partnerships.

Every now and then smoked salmon gets confused with its bolder, saltier Scandinavian cousin gravlax. This comes as no surprise as menus inaccurately feature such items as “lox and bagels.” Because most diners do not appreciate the piquancy of salt-preserved gravlax, smoked salmon usually stands in for “lox.”

Whether presented on a bagel or featured in an appetizer, a salad, side or an entrée, smoked salmon can lend not only a burst of flavor and bit of glamour but also a bounty of recipes for your dinner menus.

Smoked Salmon-Avocado-Tomato Tartare
Serves 4 to 6

You can call this either a tartare or chopped salad and serve it as an appetizer, side or first course.

4 tomatoes, seeded and diced
1 cup red onion, cut into thin, ½ to 1-inch long strips
2 avocados, flesh scooped out and cut into cubes
¼ cup fresh parsley, washed, dried and chopped
juice of 1 lemon
1 cup (approximately 6 ounces) smoked salmon, cut into small strips
freshly ground white pepper, to taste

Place the tomatoes, onions, avocados and parsley in a medium-sized bowl and drizzle the lemon juice over top. Add the smoked salmon and a dash of ground white pepper. Stir to combine and taste for seasoning, adding more ground pepper if necessary. Serve immediately or cover with plastic wrap, pressing down on the surface so that no air collects beneath the wrap, and refrigerate for up to 5 hours.

Green Pea and Smoked Salmon Fettucine
Serves 4

1 pound fettucine
1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 tablespoons scallions, minced
½ cup dry white wine
1 cup frozen peas
½ cup (3 ounces) smoked salmon, diced
½ cup Locatelli Romano cheese, grated
1/8 to ¼ teaspoon freshly ground white pepper

Cook the pasta according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Meanwhile heat the extra virgin olive oil in a large sauté or frying pan. Add the garlic and scallions and sauté until soft but not brown. Pour in the white wine and peas and continue cooking until the peas have softened.

Add the cooked pasta and smoked salmon to the sauté pan and toss to combine. Sprinkle the cheese and white pepper over top, toss again and serve immediately.

Smoked Salmon Tortillas
Serves 4

4 whole wheat or multi grain tortilla shells
¼ cup reduced fat sour cream
4 ounces smoked salmon
1 avocado, flesh scooped out and cut into strips
1 tomato, sliced
1 tablespoon capers, rinsed and drained
½ – ¾ cup fresh spinach, washed and dried
Tabasco sauce, optional dressing

In either the oven or microwave or on the stovetop warm the tortilla shells.

Laying out the shells on a clean work surface, drape equal amounts of sour cream, salmon, avocado, tomato, capers and spinach leaves over the center of each. Fold the edges of the tortillas into their centers, place on plates and serve with Tabasco sauce on the side as an optional dressing.

© 2010, Kathy Hunt. Distributed by Tribune Media Services Inc.