Published in the Chicago Tribune, LA Times, Pittsburgh Tribune Review, Washington Times, Memphis Daily News in October 2009

“Stir constantly with a wooden spoon until the cornmeal thickens, about 30 to 45 minutes.” Those instructions have daunted countless would-be polenta makers. Who wants to stand over a steaming pot for 45 minutes, stirring cornmeal non-stop? No doubt anyone who has discovered the tastiness and versatility of this savory comfort food would, that’s who.

A staple of Northern Italian cuisine, modern polenta dates back to the mid 17th century. It was during this time that the Venetians introduced American corn to the region. Prior to the 1600s a variation of polenta was reputedly made using chestnut flour while another version may have existed that employed barley.

Cooked in an unlined copper kettle, the combination of yellow cornmeal, or ground corn, and water was ceaselessly stirred until a thick mush formed. To test for doneness, the cook would insert her wooden spoon in the center of the mixture. If the spoon stood up on its own, without falling over or shifting its position, the polenta was done.

Once finished, the polenta was either served immediately in its porridge-like state or spooned out of the pot, spread out on a flat surface to cool and solidify and then cut into squares. The pieces would then be grilled or fried and paired up with seafood, vegetables or a sauce.

An extremely adaptable food, polenta was offered as a first course, side and even an entrée. When teamed with spicy sausages or sweet syrup or preserves, it became a hearty breakfast.

Today cooks vary the ways that they create this dish. “Every region in Italy has a different way of preparing polenta. Normally in the south it is more fluid and yellow as it’s made from corn flour. In the north of Italy it is solid and thick as a cake and either yellow or white from corn flour or black from buckwheat flour,” says Paolo Berton, an ardent cook and IT professional who resides in Rome. Paolo employs cornmeal and a traditional copper pot when cooking polenta, he says.

Along with switching the type of meal, cooks may opt for fine or coarse grain. Coarse-grained cornmeal will create a more robust, flavorful polenta.

Likewise, they could opt for instant polenta, which will not possess the rich taste of the slow-cooked but will save valuable time in the kitchen. Instant works best when combined with full-flavored ingredients such as sausages, pancetta or a zesty sauce. The heartiness of these ingredients compensates for instant polenta’s relative blandness.

Another deviation is to bake, rather than simmer, the cornmeal mixture. With this method the ingredients are cooked on the stovetop for 15 minutes. The polenta is then either left in the oven-safe pot and covered with a lid or tumbled into dish and covered with foil. It is then slid into a pre-heated oven and baked at 350 degrees Fahrenheit for 30 to 45 minutes, stirring every so often to ensure even baking.

To add a little gusto to the dish, cooks could substitute chicken, pork or beef stock for water. They could incorporate finely chopped onions, shallots or garlic into the simmering polenta or mix in grated Parmesan or Gruyere, crumbled gorgonzola or chunks of fontina cheese once the polenta has cooked. A dab of salted butter, sauté of wild mushrooms or coating of tomato sauce similarly bring a bit of excitement to the finished offering.

Although polenta is delicious on its own, it can also compliment a variety of delectable foods. Stewed, braised or roasted meats, grilled fish and shellfish and roasted fowl all couple well with it. When working with meats and fish, be sure to reserve some of their cooking juices so that the liquid can be used as a light sauce for the polenta.

Additionally, polenta can serve as a stand-in for such basic ingredients as pasta in lasagna. Just spread out, cool and cut the cooked polenta into strips. Place the strips in a baking dish and cover with cheese, meat or vegetables and tomato sauce and bake.

When left in its soft, mush-like state, polenta makes an appetizing alternative to mashed potatoes. Mound the polenta onto dinner plates, pour chicken or beef gravy over top and serve alongside warm, sliced chicken breast or roast beef. Outstanding!

Soft Cheesy Polenta
Serves 4
This is a basic soft polenta recipe with a little cheese and chicken stock added for flavor.

2 cups water
2 cups chicken stock
1 cup coarse yellow cornmeal
2 tablespoons salted butter
2/3 cup grated Parmesan cheese
¼ tablespoon ground black pepper

In a large saucepan bring the water and chicken stock to a boil. Slowly pour in the cornmeal, stirring with a wooden spoon as you add it. Reduce the heat to low and continue stirring for about 30 minutes or until the polenta is extremely thick and the spoon can support itself in the pan.

Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the butter, Parmesan cheese and ground black pepper. Serve immediately.

Mediterranean Polenta Triangles
Serves 4 to 6

For the polenta:
3 ¾ cups water
1 tablespoon salt
1 tablespoon olive oil, plus 2 to 3 tablespoons for frying
1 cup instant polenta

For the topping:
1 (14 ½) ounce can of diced tomatoes, drained and with juice reserved in separate bowl
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons lemon juice
¾ teaspoon dried oregano
¾ teaspoon dried thyme
1 ½ teaspoons fresh, chopped parsley or ¾ teaspoon dried parsley
½ teaspoon ground black pepper

In a large saucepan bring the water to a boil. Add the salt and 1 tablespoon of olive oil. Slowly pour in the cornmeal, stirring with a wooden spoon as you add it. Reduce the heat to medium and continue to cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture thickens, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and spoon the polenta into a rectangular, lightly oiled, 2-quart baking dish. Allow the polenta to cool and solidify.

Meanwhile, in a medium bowl mix together the tomatoes, garlic, oil, lemon juice, oregano, thyme, parsley and pepper. Depending on how thick you want the topping to be, add 2 to 4 tablespoons of the reserved tomato juice to the mixture and stir together.

Once the polenta is firm, cut it into triangles about 2 inches in diameter at the base. (You can do this by first cutting the polenta into a rectangle and then slicing it diagonally to make 2 triangles.)

In a non-stick frying pan heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Place several polenta triangles in the pan and fry on both sides until golden brown. Remove and arrange the cooked polenta on a large plate or platter. Repeat these steps with the remaining triangles.

Spoon the topping over the fried polenta and serve immediately.

Grilled Polenta with Sautéed Mushrooms
Serves 4

4 cups water
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup coarse yellow cornmeal
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
10 ounces cremini mushrooms, cleaned and trimmed
1 shallot, minced
1/2 teaspoon salt
freshly ground black pepper, to taste
olive oil, for brushing onto the polenta squares

In a large saucepan bring the water to a boil. Add the salt. Slowly pour in the cornmeal, stirring with a wooden spoon as you add it. Reduce the heat to low and continue stirring for about 30 minutes or until the polenta is extremely thick and the spoon can support itself in the pan. Remove from the heat and spoon the polenta into a rectangular, lightly oiled, 2-quart baking dish. Allow the polenta to cool and solidify.

While the polenta is cooling, pre-heat the grill. In a medium-sized frying or sauté pan heat the butter. Add the mushrooms and sauté over medium heat until slightly softened. Add the shallots, salt and pepper and continue cooking over medium until mushrooms are soft. Remove pan from the heat and set aside.

Cut the polenta into 2-inch squares. Brush each side of the squares with olive oil to prevent sticking and place the squares onto a sheet of tin foil. Grill the polenta until lightly browned on one side, about 5 to 10 minutes. Carefully flip over the polenta squares and grill on the other side for the same amount of time.

Place the grilled polenta onto a platter. Top each piece with a spoonful of mushrooms and serve.

© 2009, Kathy Hunt. Distributed by Tribune Media Services Inc.