Published in The Chicago Tribune on October 6, 2010

Family roots are never more present than when you step into the kitchen and start making soup.
Raised in an Italian-American community on the outskirts of Pittsburgh, I grew up eating not bowls of Campbell’s chicken noodle but instead homemade minestrone, paste e fagioli and Italian wedding soup. I loved the intensity of flavor in these Italian specialties, served up at special occasions such as Columbus Day, weddings and birthdays.

Now I also appreciate the simplicity and flexibility of the recipes. In many instances, they call for only beans, a few vegetables, pasta and stock to create a hearty meal.

In the case of Tuscan acquacotta, the name (translation: cooked water) suggests the scant ingredients list. Onions, celery, carrots, greens such as chard or escarole, and a handful of herbs boil together in water rather than stock. Flavored by olive oil, salt and pepper, or a Parmesan cheese rind, acquacotta is one of the easiest, most delectable dishes around.

Whether cooked alongside the other ingredients or lavishly sprinkled over the top before serving, Parmesan cheese plays a prominent part in these soups. In the Roman stracciatella, grated Parmesan is whisked together with eggs, pepper and salt. The mixture is then drizzled into a boiling chicken broth. Cooked as they swirl about in the liquid, the cheesy eggs form the soup’s telltale, ragged strands.

When adding the eggs, I make a point of stirring the liquid as I pour. This way I ensure that I have shards of egg rather than one big, cheese-infused blob.

For a zestier offering, turn to minestrone. This thick, vegetable-laden soup frequently contains pasta and beans as well as a liberal dusting of Parmesan. Eaten with bread, it is, like most Italian soups, a meal in itself.

Recipes for minestrone vary from region to region. Cooks in Genoa add pesto to their minestrone. Venetians make theirs with anchovies, while Neapolitans use pork.

The variations don’t end here. Some varieties of minestrone possess a dense consistency of boiled-down vegetables while others are brothy with chunks of lightly cooked produce. The soup can be made with a meat- or chicken-based stock, but can also be vegetarian.

At Gigi Trattoria in Rhinebeck, N.Y., minestrone comes in the form of a light, vegetarian soup. The recipe is influenced by the northern region of Italy where the restaurant’s owner, cookbook author Laura Pensiero, previously lived. Gigi’s minestrone begins with diced potatoes, beans, carrots, celery, fresh oregano, parsley, rosemary and thyme. Tomatoes aren’t present because, Pensiero explains, they aren’t as prevalent in the North.

To create a flavorful minestrone, she focuses on sauteing. “With the minestrone you should saute the vegetables with pure olive oil for longer than you would think necessary, adding fruity olive oil to finish them,” she says.

Whether craving a zesty yet wholesome meal or merely feeling a bit nostalgic, I reach for my treasure-trove of Italian soup recipes. Easy and filling, these soups meet all my lunch and dinner needs.

Stracciatella
Serves 6

7 cups chicken stock
3 eggs
3 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon finely grated Parmesan cheese
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh basil
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon ground white pepper

Bring the stock to a boil.

Whisk together the eggs, cheese, basil, salt and pepper. Slowly pour the egg mixture into the boiling stock, stirring to break up the eggs. Continue to boil for about 5 minutes, stirring periodically to keep the eggs from sticking together. Serve immediately.

Vegetarian Minestrone
While you can use a store-bought vegetable stock, I find that homemade stock makes a richer, more complex version of this soup.

Serves 6 to 8

For the vegetable stock:
4 stalks celery, washed, ends removed and cut into chunks
3 carrots, peeled and cut into chunks
2 leeks, halved, washed and drained
3 cloves garlic, peeled and smashed
1 onion, peeled and cut into quarters
10 cups water

For the soup:
2 to 3 tablespoons olive oil
1 onion, diced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 carrot, washed, peeled and cubed
1 celery rib, diced
8 cups vegetable stock
1 potato, washed, peeled and diced
1 zucchini, peeled and quartered
½ cup peas, fresh or frozen
1 cup de-seeded and diced tomatoes
1 tablespoon fresh parsley
1 tablespoon fresh basil
¼ cup orzo
1 teaspoon salt or to taste
Parmesan cheese, optional for grating over top of soup

Bring the water to a boil. Add the chopped vegetables, reduce the heat and simmer uncovered over medium-low heat for 30 minutes. Strain the vegetables from the stock and return the liquid to a large pot.

Heat two tablespoons olive oil. Add the onion, carrot, celery and garlic and sauté until very soft and translucent, adding the other tablespoon of oil if necessary.

Bring the stock to a boil. Add the sautéed vegetables and cook for about 30 minutes. Add the potatoes, zucchini, peas, tomatoes, and half of the seasonings. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for approximately 20 minutes, adding water if the liquid reduces too much. Pour in the orzo and remaining seasonings and cook for 8 to 10 minutes, until the orzo is soft. Serve immediately with, or without, a liberal grating of Parmesan cheese.

© 2010, Kathy Hunt. Distributed by Tribune Media Services Inc.