Published by the Jewish World Review Fall 2012

Whether you’re searching for exotic appetizers or just a lighter alternative to standard dessert crusts, take a leaf from the Turks — literally — and use phyllo. Layered into stacks, this tissue-thin dough adds a bit of zest to commonplace fruit pies and a hearty crunch to vegetable, meat and cheese snacks.

Although its name comes from the Greek word for “leaf,” phyllo originated with the Turks. Eleventh-century Turkish nomads used an early form of it to create layered breads, and with the rise of the Ottoman Empire, phyllo-based pastries became a jewel of Turkish cuisine. By the 17th century, an elaborate procession was being held annually in Constantinople in which soldiers received trays of the phyllo and chopped-nut pastry known as baklava.

Today, phyllo is a mainstay not only of Turkish cuisine but also throughout the Mediterranean. Stacked up in a dozen or so sheets resembling the pages of a book, it acts as the foundation for such recognizable sweets as honeyed baklava and custard-filled galaktoboureko. It also shows up in such savory appetizers as the spinach triangle spanikopita and the cigar-shaped, feta cheese-stuffed sigara boregi.

Along with starring in traditional Mediterranean pastries, phyllo serves as a substitute for the customary crusts of quiches, pies, strudels, tarts and napoleons. With phyllo, cooks are limited only by their imaginations.

Because of the time and care needed for homemade phyllo, most now purchase it either fresh at specialty markets or frozen at the grocery store. Sealed airtight, phyllo will keep for one year in the freezer or a few days in the refrigerator. Once opened and used, it should not be refrozen, as the dough will dry out and crumble.

Whether homemade or store-bought, phyllo is susceptible to brittleness. To prevent crumbling, cover the yet-to-be-used sheets with waxed paper or plastic wrap and place a damp cloth on top. Each sheet should also be brushed with melted butter or olive oil before layering into a pastry.

After the pastry is formed, you needn’t worry further about dryness. However, to ensure a perfect baked product, use a few other tricks. If adding a moist filling, such as cooked spinach in spanikopita or custard in galaktoboureko, remember to squeeze out any excess liquid before placing the filling between the phyllo.

Likewise, once the pastries have been filled, pop them into the heated oven as quickly as possible. This way the dough won’t become soggy and fall apart.

If making smaller treats, such as individual pies or tarts, check them often as they bake. Phyllo can shift from a steamy, delicious golden brown to a smoky, unpalatable black in a matter of minutes.

Chicken-Almond Bisteeya

This recipe is adapted from Paula Wolfert’s classic Moroccan cookbook “Couscous and Other Good Food from Morocco” (Harper and Row, 1973).

• 2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken breasts, washed

• 3 cloves garlic, minced

• 1/2 cup fresh parsley, chopped

• 1 Spanish onion, grated

• Pinch of saffron

• 1/4 teaspoon turmeric

• 1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper

• 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger

• 1 cinnamon stick

• 8 tablespoons butter, divided

• 3 cups water

• 2 tablespoons lemon juice

• 5 eggs, lightly beaten

• Salt, to taste

• 3/4 cup blanched almonds, toasted and chopped

• 3 tablespoons confectioner’s sugar, plus additional for garnish

• 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

• 11 sheets phyllo, thawed and covered with a damp cloth

In a large pan or Dutch oven, place the chicken, garlic, parsley, onion, spices, three tablespoons of butter and the water. Bring the contents to a boil, and then reduce the heat; cover, and allow to simmer until cooked, for about 1 hour.

Remove the chicken and cinnamon stick, and set aside. Bring the liquid to a boil and cook until the liquid has reduced by half. Add the lemon juice followed by the eggs, stirring continuously. Don’t worry if the eggs curdle; they should do this. Taste, adjust for seasonings and set aside.

Dice the chicken into bite-sized pieces and add it to the egg-broth mixture. Check the seasonings, adding more salt, if necessary.

Heat the oven to 425 degrees.

Mix together the almonds, confectioner’s sugar and ground cinnamon. Melt the remaining 5 tablespoons of butter. Using a pastry brush, butter the inside of a 12-inch pie pan and a sheet of phyllo. Place the phyllo inside the pan; some of the phyllo will extend over the sides. Butter five more sheets of phyllo, and layer them in the pan.

Spoon the chicken filling into the pan. Butter and place three sheets of phyllo over the filling. Sprinkle the almond-sugar mixture over the pastry and fold the edges of the phyllo inward so that the nuts are covered. Butter and layer the remaining two sheets of phyllo on the top of the pie. Tuck these sheets under the pie, brush the top with butter again and pour any remaining butter around the edge of the pie.

Bake for 25 to 30 minutes or until the top of the bisteeya is golden brown. Remove the pie from the oven, slice into individual pieces and dust each one with a little confectioner’s sugar. Serve immediately.

Open-Faced Apple Pies

• 5 medium-size Granny Smith apples, cored, peeled and diced

• 3/4 cup sugar

• 3/4 teaspoon cinnamon

• 1/4 teaspoon nutmeg

• 1/8 teaspoon salt

• 1/3 cup water

• 1/3 cup golden raisins

• 2 sheets phyllo, defrosted

• 1/4 cup butter, melted

• Confectioner’s sugar, for decorating

• Cinnamon or vanilla ice cream, optional

Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Grease a 6-cup muffin pan.

Place the apples, sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg, salt and water in a medium-size saucepan and bring the contents to a boil. Cover and cook over low heat for 5 to 10 minutes, until apples are soft. Add the raisins; stir, and then strain the mixture, reserving the liquid. Allow to cool.

Cut the phyllo into 24 squares, each measuring 4 inches by 4 inches. Cover the squares with a damp cloth. Take one square and brush the top with butter. Place another square at an angle on top of this square and brush the second square with butter. Repeat the steps with two more squares; you will have a stack of four overlapping squares. Place the buttered, overlapping squares into a greased muffin cup. Repeat these steps with the remaining phyllo squares.

Spoon the apple filling into the pastries, filling each to the top. Bake the pies for 20 to 25 minutes or until golden brown.

Meanwhile, return the cooking liquid to the saucepan and cook until it thickens into a syrup. When the pies have finished baking, cool them for 5 to 10 minutes before gently removing them from the pan. Place each one on a plate, spoon the syrup over the top, dust with confectioner’s sugar and serve with a scoop of cinnamon or vanilla ice cream, if desired.

Makes 6 individual pies.

Cherry Choclava

For the syrup:

• 1 cup sugar

• 1/2 cup water

• 2 whole cloves

• Pinch of cinnamon

For the pastry:

• 2 cups walnuts

• 1 tablespoon sugar

• 1 tablespoon cinnamon

• 1 cup dried cherries

• 6 ounces semi-sweet chocolate morsels

• 2/3 cup butter, melted

• 11 sheets phyllo, thawed

To prepare the syrup: Bring the water, sugar, cloves and cinnamon to a boil in a small saucepan. Continue to cook for 1 to 2 minutes, stirring until the sugar has dissolved. Remove the pan from the stove, remove the cloves and allow the syrup to cool to room temperature.

Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Grease a 9-inch by 13-inch metal baking pan.

To prepare the filling: Place the walnuts, sugar and cinnamon in the bowl of a food processor and coarsely chop. Add the dried cherries and semi-sweet chocolate morsels. Using the pulse or “on/off” setting, pulse the ingredients three times.

Take one sheet of phyllo and place it on a clean, flat work surface. Cover the remaining phyllo sheets with plastic wrap and a damp cloth so they don’t dry out and become brittle.

Using a pastry brush, cover the phyllo sheet with the melted butter. Place a second sheet of phyllo on top of the first one and brush the top sheet with butter. Lay these sheets buttered side up and lengthwise in the greased pan.

Cover another sheet with butter and then fold it in half to form an 8-inch by 12-inch rectangle. Paint this folded sheet with butter. Repeat these steps with two more sheets. Place the sheets in the pan, buttered side up. Sprinkle half of the filling over the top.

Butter, fold and butter one phyllo sheet and place it over the filling. Spread the remaining filling on top of this sheet. Repeat the butter-fold-butter step again with three sheets of phyllo. Place these on top of the filling.

Butter the final two sheets. Do not fold these; lay them, buttered side up, on top of the phyllo layers. Tuck the ends into the pan so that the edges of the pastry are enclosed completely in phyllo.

Using a sharp knife and without cutting all the way through to the filling, score the phyllo diagonally from one corner to the opposite corner. Repeat in the opposite direction to form individual diamonds roughly 2 inches in size.

Bake in the oven for 40 to 45 minutes or until golden brown. Remove the pan from the oven and pour the cooled syrup over the pastry. Cool completely before covering and allowing the cherry-chocolate baklava to stand overnight. Before serving, follow the scored, diamond pattern and cut the pastry into 24 individual pieces.

Makes 24 pieces.

© 2012, Kathy Hunt. Distributed by Tribune Media Services Inc.