Published in Ed Hitzel’s Restaurant Magazine Fall 2006
A region renowned for its leafy landscapes and charming, historic towns, Bucks County, Penn. comes alive in autumn. Red and amber leaves set the rolling hills and former farmlands ablaze. Vibrant apple and art festivals line the small, picturesque villages. Everywhere residents and visitors alike bask in the golden splendor of Bucks County.
Founded by William Penn in 1682, the county holds a prominent place in the nation’s history. Here George Washington and his Continental Army crossed the Delaware River on December 25, 1776 to fight the Hessians at the Battle of Trenton. During the Revolution the Liberty Bell was hidden in Bucks County to protect it from the British and their scheme to melt it down for ammunition. In later years the region served as a stagecoach stop between New York and Philadelphia and remains a popular stopping point along the Northeast Corridor.
Of the 23 boroughs that make up Bucks County, New Hope persists as the top tourist destination. Nestled along the Delaware River and Canal, the town of 2,300 is famed for its art galleries, antique shops, live entertainment and liberal atmosphere. The Bucks County Playhouse (215-862-2041), a former 18th century gristmill, presents a year-long schedule of musicals, plays, and children’s productions. Such luminaries as Robert Redford, Liza Minelli, and John Lithgow have all graced the stage at 70 S. Main Street.
At John and Peter’s (215-862-5981), 96 S. Main Street, music lovers can enjoy live performances seven days a week in this 34-year-old night club. The venue has hosted such recording artists as Norah Jones, Mary Chapin Carpenter, and New Hope natives Ween. Havana at 105 S. Main Street offers live music Tuesday through Sunday along with Caribbean and Latin American-inspired food and drink. At Odette’s on River Road (215-862-2432) cabaret followers can wine, dine, and soak in the beauty of the Delaware River while listening to famous cabaret performers. Located at 385 W. Bridge Street (215-862-2081), the Raven presents music, dancing, karaoke, and upscale dining for alternative lifestyles.
Nature lovers will appreciate not only the town’s waterfront setting but also its bevy of outdoor activities. The New Hope and Ivyland Railroad (215-862-2332) on W. Bridge Street takes travelers on a 9-mile trek along the Delaware River in a 1920’s passenger coach. Pulled by an authentic steam locomotive, the train crosses the very route where the silent movie serial “The Perils of Pauline” was filmed. During the fall the railroad runs a 35-mile seasonal foliage ride through Bucks County.
The New Hope Mule Barge (215-862-2842) on New Street transports passengers back to the 19th century to experience canal life while riding in a mule-drawn barge. Named for the ferry transporting Washington’s army across the Delaware, Coryell’s Ferry Boat Rides (215-862-2050) cruise along the Delaware with guides pointing out historic sites and local wildlife.
In nearby Washington Crossing Historic Park (215-493-4076) hikers and botany enthusiasts can traverse the 134-acre Bowman’s Hill Wildflower Preserve and climb the 125-foot Bowman’s Hill Tower for a spectacular view of the surrounding land. History buffs will want to explore the park’s small settlements at McConkey’s Ferry and Thompson’s Mill. These contain an 18th century inn, 19th century homes, a general store, a gristmill and Revolutionary War gravesites. Admission is $5.
Bucks County’s oldest and largest open air market, Rice’s, lies on the outskirts of New Hope at 6326 Greenhill Road. Sitting atop 30 acres, Rice’s Market sells everything from antiques to artichokes every Tuesday throughout the year and on Saturdays from March to December. Since the 1950’s over 700 vendors and 15,000 shoppers have flocked to the market to deal on clothing, collectibles, furniture, baked goods and produce.
Ten minutes south of New Hope on Route 202 sits the village of Lahaska and Peddler’s Village. Reminiscent of an 18th century community, Peddler’s Village boasts of 70 unique shops, six restaurants, the House of Coffee shop, an antique carousel, the 70-room Golden Plough Inn, year-round festivals and gardens on 42 landscaped acres. During the fall the Village sponsors both an October scarecrow and a November apple festival on its grounds. Adjacent to Peddler’s Village, Penn’s Purchase (215-794-0300) Factory Outlet features such stores as Bose, Coach, and Waterford.
Situated 15 minutes south of Lahaska on Route 202 is the county seat of Doylestown. Founded in 1745 by tavern owner William Doyle, the town retains much of its early colonial charm. The historic, downtown buildings on Main and State Streets house an eclectic assortment of shops, such as the clothing store Lilies of the Field at 1 South Main, Siren Records at 25 W. State, and La Maison Cheese at 51 W. State. The center of town also possesses an independent movie theater, the County Theater (215-345-6789) at 20 E. State Street, a weekend farmer’s market (215-345-5355) on State and Hamilton Streets, and a variety of restaurants.
Some of Bucks County’s most interesting and unusual museums call Doylestown home. The six-story, concrete, 1916 castle, the Mercer Museum (215-345-0210), at 84 South Pine Street contains 50,000 early American artifacts of which 60% are on display. A Conestoga wagon, antique fire engine, and 2,000-year-old whale oil lamp are among the items that eccentric archeologist, antiquarian, and tile-maker Henry Chapman Mercer collected for this National Historic Landmark. Admission is $8.
Before designing the Mercer Museum, Henry Mercer built his dream house, Fonthill (215-348-9461), on 42 wooded and pastoral acres in Doylestown. Created from reinforced concrete, the castle-like structure consists of 44 rooms, 32 stairwells, 18 fireplaces and over 200 windows. Tiles handcrafted at Mercer’s tile factory, the Moravian Pottery and Tile Works, and taken from his vast private collection adorn Fonthill’s interior. Guided tours occur throughout the week for $9.
A concrete, Spanish mission-styled “working history museum,” Moravian Pottery and Tile Works (215-345-6722) at 130 Swamp Road continues to craft handmade tiles in the manner instituted by Mercer. Self-guided tours of the tile workshop cost $3.50.
The 1884 Bucks County Jail at 138 S. Pine Street no longer harbors miscreants but instead acts as a showcase for regional art and traveling national exhibits. Renamed the James A. Michener Art Museum (215-340-9800) in honor of Doylestown’s native son, the museum displays paintings, photographs, furniture and sculptures of local and national renown. A satellite branch of the museum, The Michener in New Hope (215-862-7633), recently opened on Bridge Street in New Hope.
Along with live entertainment, shopping, historic parks and museums, Bucks County affords out-of-towners the chance to taste locally-made wines at the New Hope Winery (800-592-WINE) at 6123 Lower York Road. At the Sand Castle Winery (800-722-9465), 755 River Road in Erwinna, wine drinkers can participate in tastings, cellar and barrel tours and wine classes at the 72-acre vineyard. Oenophiles can also sample wine less the one mile from where Washington crossed the Delaware at the Crossing Vineyard (215-493-6500) on Wrightstown Road in Washington Crossing.
The region also proffers an array of fine dining experiences. The Landing (215-862-5711) at 22 N. Main in New Hope serves up regional American cuisine on a brick, riverside terrace. Martine’s (215-862-2966) at 7 E. Ferry Street creates French-American dishes in a 1752 tollhouse. Hotel du Village (215-862-9911) on New Hope’s River Road specializes in traditional French meals.
On York Road in Lahaska Caffe Galleria delivers Mediterranean-influenced breakfast, lunch, and dinner in a relaxed atmosphere. In Peddler’s Village Earl’s Prime (215-794-4020) has both a raw and martini bar along with steak and seafood dinners and Cross Culture (215-794-5555) dishes out Indian delicacies. Sushi dominates the menu at Doylestown’s Madame Butterfly (215-345-4488), 34 W. State Street, while regional American remains the specialty at Chambers 19 (215-348-1940) on 19 N. Main Street.
Additionally, Bucks County abounds with well-appointed, noteworthy inns and bed and breakfasts. Those wishing to stay in town should consider spending the night at the Logan Inn (215-862-2300), 10 W. Ferry Street in New Hope. Accommodating travelers since 1727, the Inn has 16 antique-filled rooms in the heart of New Hope. Doylestown’s 1814 House Inn (215-340-1814) at 50 S. Main Street consists of seven luxurious guest rooms within walking distance of the downtown shops and restaurants.
Vacationers craving the countryside should contemplate an evening at the 100-acre, 18th century Barley Sheaf Farm (215-794-5104) on Old York Road/Route 202 in Holicong. Once owned by playwright George S. Kaufman, Barley Sheaf now exists as 16-suite estate and spa with fireplaces, whirlpool tubs, and private terraces for each room. Across the street from Barley Sheaf lies a less costly but no less beautiful alternative, the Ash Mill Farm Bed and Breakfast (215-794-5373). The six guest rooms of Ash Mill are housed in the 1790 manor house of an 11-acre, working sheep farm.
As the air grows crisp and the evening light ebbs away, an enlivening fall drive through Bucks County will surely keep the impending winter doldrums at bay.