All posts filed under: Food Musings

Spread Some Excitement

Published by Kathy Hunt

Tapenade.  That piquant condiment found on virtually every dining table in the Mediterranean.   Most people associate it with olives.  Tapenade isn’t just about olives, though.  Rather, this biting spread represents the successful marriage between capers and olives.  In fact, its name comes from the French Provencale word for capers — tapeno. To make a fresh tapenade takes only scant minutes and ingredients.  Pitted olives, capers, anchovies and olive oil are either pulverized with a mortar and pestle or processed in a food processor until they become a chunky puree.  The resultant tapenade is either served or refrigerated until ready to use. And just how to utilize a tapenade?  Along with slathering it on baguettes for a quick appetizer, Mediterranean cooks may spread it over seared fish steaks, grilled vegetables, crackers or warm pita bread. They may also employ it as a stuffing for oven-roasted tomatoes or as a savory dressing for sandwiches. Simple to make and a pleasure to eat, tapenades are quite the Mediterranean treat. OLIVE  TAPENADE Makes roughly 1 cup ½ pound Kalamata …

Molten Chocolate Lava Land

Published by Kathy Hunt

I know that many will disagree but, for me, this decade will go down in history as the ten long years of molten chocolate lava cakes.  My first experience with them came not in a restaurant but in my own kitchen.  Armed with Nigella Lawson’s classic cookbook “How to Eat” (Wiley, 2000), I set out to create her gooey chocolate puddings.  These wonderfully decadent treats, I later came to learn, are also known by such monikers as molten chocolate cakes, chocolate lava cakes, and chocolate cakes with warm ganache centers.  Same dessert.  Countless names. Check out the dessert menu at any upscale and/or New American restaurant and I bet that you will spot this sweet. Every 21st century chef seems to have fallen for this moist and oozing chocolate specialty.   Although the recipe is quite simple, many mess up the molten chocolate lava cake (MCLC). Usually the chef has baked the pudding for far too long. Insert your fork into one of these overcooked MCLC’s and you’ll not see that glorious stream of steaming chocolate cascade onto your plate.  Instead you’ll have a forkful of dry chocolate cake.  To …

Beignet v. Funnel Cake – Let the Games Begin

Published by Kathy Hunt

Ah, beignets and funnel cakes.  I can’t think of two more delectable, fried, sugar-coated snacks.  After years of gorging on beignets each time that I visit New Orleans and of living next to Apple Frankie, the undisputed “funnel cake king,” I consider myself somewhat of an expert on the two.  So, with a nod to the aforementioned A. Frankie, I shall attempt to determine, once and for all, which is truly the best greasy sweet.  Although I flew back from New Orleans over a month ago, beignets linger on my palate and mind.  Blanketed with powdered sugar, these pillows of dough are served hot and as a trio at the Crescent City landmark Cafe du Monde.  Light and oh-so sweet, they are a heavenly treat.  To balance out the avalanche of sugar hitting my bloodstream and clothes, I pair beignets with a decaf, chicory-laced cafe au lait and plenty of napkins.   While I associate beignets with New Orleans, they actually originated in France.  Made from the delicate, spongy pâte à choux, these airy, square pastries are found throughout the country.  They likewise pop up in such French-influenced regions as Quebec and, of course, …

It's Al Fresco Dining Time!

Published by Kathy Hunt

On the East Coast we’re in the middle of a spring heat wave.  Sunshine.  Ninety degrees.  Pleasant breeze.  All this beautiful weather spurs me to do one thing — drag my deathly pale, vitamin-D deprived body outside to dine al fresco. Italian for “fresh” or “open air,” al fresco refers quite simply to eating outdoors.  At one time I thought that this was ridiculous.  Who wants to swat away flies and bees, listen to irksome traffic and breath in pungent car exhaust as she eats?   As it turns out, I do.   As soon as the thermometer tops 55 and restaurants start erecting those towering, tree-like space heaters, I’m sliding into a wrought iron cafe chair and dining in the bracing spring air. Why the radical change of heart?  After a cold, dark winter spent indoors I no longer can bear to waste a minute of sunlight.  Pass me my sunglasses and I’ll be off to bask in the sun and nosh on refreshing, seasonal fare.  No gazpacho or vichyssoise on the menu?  No problem.  Although lighter dishes seem more appropriate for an al fresco atmosphere, I’m …

Dublin Days

Published by Kathy Hunt

A few weeks ago Sean and I decided to revisit Ireland.  Cheap airfare and the desire to relax in friendly, familiar environs made this country the obvious vacation choice.   So, setting aside more exotic locals, we hopped a flight to Dublin on Easter Sunday and kicked off our first full-fledged holiday of 2009. As anyone who has traveled with me can attest, no trip is complete without several nerdy and culinary activities.  In Dublin the nerdiness comes partly in the form of a pilgrimage to Ireland’s largest bookshop, Hodges Figgis on Dawson Street.  Opened in 1786, the four-story store carries over 60,000 books.  As if I need another book!  That doesn’t stop me from browsing the shelves at Hodges Figgis or at other charming, well-stocked shops such as The Winding Stair near the Haypenny Bridge or even the chain Waterstones, right across from Hodges Figgis. The fun doesn’t end there.  Oh no.  Along with bookstores I have to check out the city’s museum offerings.  This time Sean and I revisited the National Gallery of Ireland where last year I smashed my Nikon N80, bringing an end to my film SLR days.  We …

Joi de Vivre in New Orleans

Published by Kathy Hunt

No matter how many times I travel to New Orleans, I remain as in love with this city as I was the very first time.  So many beautiful sites.  So much wonderful food, music and drink.  Is it any wonder why I return again and again to the Crescent City? Every trip there is different.   One time I might roam around the museums, taking in the Cabildo, Ogden Museum of Southern Art or New Orleans Museum of Art.   Another time it might be a trip to the Audubon Zoo, a plantation tour or boat ride through the swamps.  Then there are the seasonal events such as Mardi Gras, the St. Patrick’s Day Parade and Jazz Fest.  All good stuff.    On the most recent journey I had the luxury of hanging out with a New Orleanian, my husband’s cousin Mike.  Thanks to him, I could experience life as a local as well as revisit some favorite tourist spots.  Beignets from Cafe du Monde — They’re a New Orleans institution and a must-have on any trip here.  Soft, warm and blanketed in powdered sugar, these French delicacies hooked …

Soup Up

Published by Kathy Hunt

Why, oh why, do I love soup?  Is it because it comes in so many forms and from so many different cuisines?  Maybe it’s the versatility; almost any food that you can plunk into a pot can be made into soup. Chicken, clams, lobster, yogurt, garlic, corn, potato, tomato, melon . . .. Then again, it could simply be because I’m too lazy to chew solids.   Nah!  Can’t be that!  Although it’s been served since roughly 6000 B.C., “soup” first entered the English lexicon in the 17th century.  Derived from the French word ‘soupe,’ it initially referred to broth poured over bread.  The dish quickly evolved into a liquid consumed on its own, without the sodden hunk of bread.  Later it came to include not only consommes but also bisques and meat- and vegetable-laden fare.    Because heartier soups often appeared as the sole dinner offering in poor, rural areas, many deemed them to be peasant food.   Even today people frequently think of soup not as a meal in itself but as accompaniment – “soup and salad” – or as the first course.   Yet, these thicker …

Sunday Rituals

Published by Kathy Hunt

For heathens (or hedonists) like me, Sunday consists not of rest and religious services but of food and flea markets.   At Isabella’s on Columbus and W. 77th I worship the concept of brunch, that wonderful meal offering me the options of both breakfast and lunch.  As an added bonus, Isabella’s brunch comes with a complimentary Bloody Mary, Bellini, Campari, mimosa or glass of champagne and a basket of raisin-fennel and carrot breads.   Is it any wonder why I bound out of bed?      Suffering from a terrible sweet tooth, I usually order the carmelized banana-stuffed French toast.  Topped with strawberries macerated in Grand Marnier sauce, it’s both decadent and ever so slightly good for me.  (Just remember, whether sauteed in sugar and butter or soaked in orange liqueur, it’s still fruit.  Or so I keep telling myself.)  On mornings when I’m hankering a cholesterol boost, I opt for Isabella’s smoked salmon Benedict on a buttermilk biscuit with a side of home fries.  And, on those rare Sundays when I’m feeling a tad health conscious, I order the seasonal fruit plate.       After brunch it’s across the street to the temple of quirky consumption, GreenFlea.  Looking for bronze …

Home Cooked Comfort

Published by Kathy Hunt

Day after day I read the newspaper, listen to NPR and watch the news and feel surprisingly fortunate.  Granted, most of the publications for which I write have declared bankruptcy and my monthly financial statements have become the butt of sad jokes.  Yet, to paraphrase the Republican party of the 1920’s, I still have ‘a chicken in the pot and a car in the backyard, to boot. ‘   Where I notice this economic downturn is in the kitchen.  It’s not how often I cook but what I cook that differs.  Gone are the big, time consuming dinners featuring exotic ingredients found only at gourmet and specialty shops.  Instead I now make simpler, more comforting fare.    One such heartening meal is ratatouille.  After yet another day of dire news I can think of nothing more nurturing than tucking into a warm bowl of this garlic-scented, vegetable-rich, Provencal stew.  With eggplant, zucchini, tomatoes, peppers and hints of basil, oregano and thyme, it gives me a much needed lift when I’m down. Who doesn’t feel bolstered by a good, hot soup?  I know that I do.  Pumpkin, chicken with orzo, vegetarian black bean, potato leek, …

An Excuse for Gluttony

Published by Kathy Hunt

  As I sit here, gauze jammed into my left cheek after oral surgery, my thoughts turn to all the solid food that I won’t be eating for the next few days and all the delectable goodies that I consumed over the weekend.  This year Valentine’s Day — and my impending trip to the oral surgeon — served as the ideal reason to go out and indulge.   The gorging began on Friday the 13th with dinner at the organic, seasonal, artisanal restaurant Telepan.  I jumped headlong into the feasting with an appetizer of house-smoked brook trout on a buckwheat-potato blini while Sean sensibly began his meal with a winter salad.  For entrees there was polenta souffle with wild mushrooms and corn hominy for me and roasted chicken with chicken liver dumplings and Brussels sprouts for Sean.  The best part of any meal, and particularly this meal, was dessert — sticky toffee cake with creme fraiche ice cream and candied cranberries.  Wow!   Sweets stayed on the menu for Saturday.  After a healthful breakfast of yogurt, granola, bananas and berries Sean and I eventually made our way …