Blog - Page 6 of 38 - Kitchen Kat

Latest Posts

pickled herring on brown bread in Denmark

Further Fish Tales: Now It’s “Herring!”

Published by Kathy Hunt

Pickled herring sailing off from Helsignor, Denmark

By now most know the African proverb “It takes a village to raise a child.” In my case it takes a village of friends and family to launch another book. Two Fridays ago a wonderfully supportive group whom I’m honored to have as members of my village celebrated the publication of my nonfiction book Herring: A Global History. Part of Reaktion Books‘ Edible Series, Herring explores the historical, economic, cultural and environmental impact of this small, omega-3-rich, silvery fish.

Checking out the boatload of “Herring” at the Towne Book Center in Collgeville, Penna.

When people hear the topic of my book, they invariably ask the same thing. “Herring?” There are always a few who misunderstand and ask, “Hairy?” No, I didn’t write about hirsute people but I’m sure that would be a fascinating topic, too.

Once everyone is on the same page about the subject, we get into what attracted me to it. After the publication of Fish Market I had a wealth of knowledge about seafood. I also had a desire to share more about a specific, historic and fascinating fish, the Atlantic and Pacific herring. Although a staple of Scandinavian, Central European and Japanese cuisines, it barely makes a mark in modern American cooking. Yet, had we lived at any point during the 17th through 19th centuries we’d certainly have eaten this fish. Its abundance was such that Colonial settlers fertilized their crops with it. As we tend to do with plentiful resources, we exploited it until few remained along either coastline. Although their numbers have rebounded, you rarely see the fish in American markets or menus.

21st century “haring” and hot dog cart in Amsterdam

While herring has slipped off our radar, it maintains a presence in Europe, in part because it has such a long, rich history there. Amsterdam was the place where medieval Dutch fishermen brought in, cleaned and sold “haring.” In fact, many say that Amsterdam literally sits upon the bones of this fish. Cities such as Copenhagen and Yarmouth, England likewise owe their early days to it.

Jars of pickled herring in an Oslo, Norway market

Today you’ll still find fresh, smoked or pickled herring in European markets. In fact, Denmark supposedly has more pickled herring cures than days in a year. What do people do with all that velvety, flavorful seafood? Serve it with rye or hearty brown bread, crackers and a shot of aquavit. Make it into open-faced sandwiches. Feature it in salads. In the case of fresh or smoked, they may grill, bake or pan-fry the fish or put it in hearty casseroles. Looking for a specific recipe? Check out this June 2015 post.

Kathy Hunt talking about fish at the Towne Book Center

Talking about fish, world history and food at the Towne Book Center on October 20, 2017

As I said so often with “Fish Market,” I hope you get hooked on herring. I certainly have! If you want to learn more about this fish, check out the following video. Like it? Give it a ‘thumbs up!’ Have a question or comment? Send it my way!

Herring – A Global History

Published by Kathy Hunt

Though tiny, the herring has played an enormous role in history. Battles have been waged over it. International economic alliances have formed over it. Major cities owe their prosperity to it. Political powers have risen and fallen with herring’s own rise and fall in population. How can this all be attributed to this unassuming little animal?

In Herring: A Global History, Kathy Hunt looks at the environmental, historical, political, and culinary background of this prolific and easily caught fish. Over the centuries, herring have sustained populations in times of war and hardship, and the fish’s rich flavor, delicate texture, and nutritious meat have made it a culinary favorite. Its ease of preparation—just grill, broil, fry, pickle, salt, or smoke and serve—have won it further acclaim. Engaging and informative, the book features fifteen mouth-watering recipes. It will appeal to food lovers, history buffs, and anyone who has ever enjoyed a British kipper, German Bismarck, Dutch matjes, or Jewish chopped-herring.

Buy on Amazon

Series: Edible
Hardcover: 208 pages
Publisher: Reaktion Books (October 15, 2017)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 1780238312
ISBN-13: 978-1780238319

Cinnamon Pie Crust Sticks Like Nana Used to Make

Published by Kathy Hunt

A few weeks ago I attended a food journalism conference where editors told the assembled writers, “No more grandmother stories.” Everybody has a grandmother. No one wants to hear about her anymore.

That watershed moment — seeing a jar of cinnamon pie crust at Reading Terminal Market

The timing couldn’t have been stranger. Just that morning, while wandering around Philadelphia’s Reading Terminal Market, I came across something that I hadn’t seen or thought about in years, something that reminded me of my paternal grandmother, whom I also hadn’t seen in years and about whom I’ve never written. A relic from early childhood, they were strips of pie crust dusted in cinnamon sugar.

At the Market they were called “cinnamon sugar pie fries.” When I was a little kid, they were ‘scraps of leftover pie dough that Nana had decorated with cinnamon sugar and baked.’ Now I think of them as cinnamon pie crust sticks.

Plate of cinnamon pie crust sticks

Unlike many food writers, I don’t have charming stories of baking with my grandmothers or mother. By the time that I was old enough to whisk eggs or roll out dough, my maternal grandmother was gone and my paternal grandmother had eased out of her role as family cook and baker. As I’ve mentioned before, my mother equated time spent in the kitchen with a prison sentence; you grudgingly did your time and didn’t talk much about it. Needless to say, we didn’t bake together.

I do, however, have that memory of standing in my grandmother’s small, warm kitchen, munching on roughly cut pieces of pie crust decorated with cinnamon and sugar. As a six-year-old, I found few foods as exotic as those sweet yet spicy, flaky yet crunchy, irregularly shaped treats.

Scraps of dough waiting to become cinnamon pie crust sticks

Although I don’t bake pies very often, when I do, I save those scraps just as my grandmother used to do and turn them into cinnamon pie crust sticks. While you don’t need a recipe to make them, I will offer one below. Please feel free to fiddle with proportions so that you get the sweetness or spiciness that you crave. Likewise, if you don’t bake pies but still want to try these little sweets, pick up some frozen pie dough. It’ll be almost as good as Nana used to make.

CINNAMON PIE CRUST STICKS
Keeping in mind that not everyone makes her own pie dough, I’ve written this for frozen pie crust fans.
Makes approximately 4 dozen cinnamon pie crust sticks

2 9-inch frozen pie crusts, removed from the pie tins and defrosted
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1 tablespoon ground cinnamon

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees Fahrenheit. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper and set aside.

Place one of the frozen pie crusts on a cutting board. Using a sharp knife, slice the dough into strips approximately 2-inches long and 1/2-inch wide. Place the strips an inch apart on the baking sheet.

Cinnamon pie crust sticks all ready to bake

Stir together the sugar and ground cinnamon and sprinkle the combo over each strip of dough. Bake for 10 minutes, until slightly puffed and golden around the edges. Remove the pan from the oven and allow the sticks to cool slightly on the pan before moving them to wire cooling racks.

As the first batch is cooling, repeat the above steps with the second pie crust. Cool completely on wire racks and then store in airtight containers.

uncooked lime-marinated swordfish kebabs

Grilling Lime-Marinated Swordfish Kebabs

Published by Kathy Hunt

Lime-marinated swordfish kebabs threaded and ready to be grilled.

Want a quick, crowd pleasing seafood dish for your next summer cookout? Try lime-marinated swordfish kebabs.

Officially, I created this recipe for my seafood cookbook Fish Market (Running Press, 2013) but I’ve made variations of it for years. Lime appears often in my seafood cooking. I love the slightly sweet, clean flavor of this citrus and how it adds complexity and life to fish and shellfish. That dash of green zest on a white-hued fish isn’t bad, either.

When I can’t find sustainable, North Atlantic handline or harpoon-caught swordfish, I substitute another firm, white fish. That can be anything from Pacific yellowfin or longtail tuna and mackerel to U.S-sourced snapper, mahi mahi and striped bass. When making this and any other seafood dish, I consult Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch to ensure that I use sustainable fish.

Swordfish kebabs on a hot, foil-covered grill

Because I’m always a little concerned about losing chunks of my fish kebabs to a scorching hot grate, I lay these skewers on lightly oiled tin foil before placing them on the grill. If you’re not the worrying type or your grates are seasoned enough that fish slides right off, feel free to skip the foil. Either way, you’ll end up with a quick, delicious dish that’s sure to satisfy.

LIME-MARINATED SWORDFISH KEBABS
From “Fish Market” (Running Press, 2013)
Serves 4

Grated zest of 2 limes
1/3 cup freshly squeezed lime juice
1/4 cup olive oil
1 teaspoon sea salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
1 1/2 pounds swordfish steaks, cut into 1 1/2-inch cubes

In a medium-sized bowl whisk together the zest, juice, oil, salt, and pepper. Place the swordfish cubes in the marinade and toss to coat. Refrigerate the fish for 1 hour. If using wooden or bamboo skewers, soak them in water for 30 minutes.
Preheat your grill on high.

Thread the fish onto skewers and lay the kebabs either directly on or on a sheet of tin foil placed on the preheated grill. Grill until just cooked through, about 5 minutes, brushing the marinade over the kebabs as they cook and turning so that they cook evenly. Serve on or off the skewers.

Perfecting Peanut Butter Pie

Published by Kathy Hunt

A slice of creamy peanut butter pie

Growing up outside of Pittsburgh, I always assumed that peanut butter pie came from my part of the country. Every picnic my family attended and almost every restaurant where we ate offered a version of this rich sweet. Some bakers made it with a classic pie dough. They spooned the no-bake filling into the crisp crust and served the dessert at room temperature. Others lined their pie pans with graham cracker, shortbread or Oreo cookie crumbs, added the peanut butter mixture and refrigerated or froze the pie before serving. Each type—crunchy yet velvety or crumbly, hard and cold—had its diehard fans.

The variations didn’t end with crust and consistency. Toppings ranged from chopped peanuts, shaved chocolate, cocoa powder or more cookie crumbs to whipped cream, chocolate glazes, or, my least favorites, overly sugary caramel, banana or strawberry sauces. No matter what differences existed, people gobbled up this dessert.

Decorating the pie with chocolate sauce

In spite of my home turf’s love of this pie, Western Pennsylvanians cannot claim it as one of their own. Peanut butter pie has its roots in the American South where both peanuts and pies thrive. Even so, the best that I ever ate was not in the South but in Bedford, Pa. Located two hours southeast of Pittsburgh, Bedford is home to the 18th century Jean Bonnet Tavern and the most extraordinary peanut butter pie.

Jean Bonnet Tavern

I came across this pie on a recent road trip to Frank Lloyd Wright’s Kentuck Knob and Fallingwater. Tired and hungry, my friends and I stopped in Bedford for dinner and a wisely chosen dessert at Jean Bonnet Tavern. That dessert was a slice of peanut butter pie accompanied by four forks.

What made the pie so delightful was its smooth, silky texture. This is achieved by folding whipped cream into the peanut butter filling. How do I know that? Because our server provided us with typed copies of the restaurant’s recipe for peanut butter pie. Since it would be greedy of me not share this treat, I’ve included the original Jean Bonnet Tavern recipe and just a minor tweak, which I’ve noted below.

Folding whipped cream into the peanut butter-cream cheese filling

Folding whipped cream into the peanut butter-cream cheese mixture makes for an especially light filling.

PEANUT BUTTER PIE
Recipe from Jean Bonnet Tavern in Bedford, PA
Serves 8 to 10

Because I prefer a thicker topping, I halved the amount of heavy cream (from 2/3 to 1/3 cup) and increased the amount of chocolate (from 2 to 3 ounces) listed in the original recipe. If you like a soupier consistency, use 2/3 cup heavy cream and only 2 ounces of chocolate in the topping.

for the crust:
1 1/3 cups graham cracker crumbs
1/3 cup sugar
8 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

for the filling:
12 ounces cream cheese
1 1/2 cups creamy peanut butter
1 1/2 cups sugar
1 cup heavy cream

for the topping:
1/3 cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/3 cup firmly packed light brown sugar
3 ounces semi-sweet chocolate, finely chopped
1/8 teaspoon salt

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.

In a large bowl stir together the graham cracker crumbs, sugar and melted butter until well combined. Spoon roughly half of the graham cracker crust into a 9-inch pie pan. Using your fingers, evenly press the crumbs into the pan. Repeat with the remaining crumbs.

Pressing the graham cracker crumbs into the pie pan.

Place the crust in the oven and bake for 8 minutes, until the crust is beginning to brown slightly. Remove the crust and allow it to cool to room temperature.

While the crust cools, make the filling. Using an electric mixer, beat the cream cheese until fluffy. Add the peanut butter and sugar and beat again until smooth and well-combined. Set aside.

Ingredients of the peanut butter pie filling.

Whipped cream and cream cheese-peanut butter will combine to make the peanut butter pie filling.

In a separate bowl beat the heavy cream until stiff peaks form. Gently fold the whipped cream into the peanut butter-cream cheese mixture. When finished, you will have a light, creamy filling. Spoon this into the pie crust. Refrigerate the pie for a minimum of 4 hours.

About 30 minutes before serving the pie, make the chocolate sauce. Place the cream, butter, chopped chocolate, sugar and salt in either a small saucepan or microwave-safe bowl. If using a stovetop, simmer the ingredients together over medium-low, stirring frequently, until the chocolate has melted and the ingredients are blended together. If using a microwave, heat the ingredients for 30 to 60 seconds, stirring frequently, until the chocolate has melted and the ingredients are blended together. Cool the sauce to room temperature before spreading or piping onto the chilled pie.

Got puff pastry and peaches? You’ve got dessert!

Published by Kathy Hunt

Nope, it’s not a sunny side up egg. It’s a peach puff!

It’s probably no surprise that a lot of my recipe ideas come from travel. Unusual ingredients that I’ve tasted, signature dishes that I’ve tried and local recipes that I’ve acquired all influence my cooking. Although I gravitate to far flung locations, I do find inspiration closer to home. A perfect example is this spring’s obsession with puff pastry and stone fruit.

A few Saturdays ago I went to Philadelphia to meet up with an old friend. Since I’d done something extraordinary and actually arrived early, I popped into a little bakery selling pastries and a small assortment of breads. What better place to kill time than in a food shop? While the almond croissants and pain au raisins looked lovely, what caught my eye were the “apricot boats,” glistening ovals of puff pastry topped with halved apricots and pearl sugar. So simple. So elegant. Why didn’t I ever think of doing that?

The inspiration, a bakery-bought apricot boat

Anything that easy and enticing I had to make. First, though, I should have a taste. So, with a box of apricot boats in hand I set off to catch up with my friend and sample this sweet. Our verdict? It was about as uncomplicated and delicious as a pastry could get.

On the ride home I mulled over apricot boats. I had puff pastry in the freezer and pearl sugar in my pantry. All that I needed was six ripe apricots and I could replicate this treat.

Because I couldn’t find fresh apricots at my local markets, I cheated and used canned halved peaches instead. As I discovered, any stone fruit, fresh or canned, works in this recipe. Just grab some puff pastry and some peaches, plums, apricots, nectarines or even cherries and start baking.

PEACH PUFFS
Makes 12 to 16 pastries

1/2 cup water
1/2 cup granulated sugar
Flour, for dusting the work surface
2 sheets puff pastry, defrosted
12 to 16 peach halves, canned or fresh
Pearl sugar, optional, for decorating

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.

Place the water and sugar in a small saucepan and simmer over medium heat until all the sugar has dissolved. (Note that, if you are using fresh peaches, you will want to add the peach halves to the saucepan and allow them to simmer in the simple syrup until softened, 2 to 4 minutes, spooning the syrup over the halves as they cook.) Remove the pan of simple syrup from the heat and set aside.

Dust a clean work surface with flour. Place one sheet of puff pastry on the work surface and, using a flour-dusted rolling pin, roll out the pastry until it’s approximately 11″ x 15″ in size.

Cutting puff pastry with a 3-inch biscuit cutter to make peach puffs.

Using a 3-inch scalloped, round or oval biscuit cutter, cut out 6 to 8 puffs. Place each on the parchment-lined baking sheet. Roll out the other sheet of puff pastry and cut out 6 to 8 more puffs, putting them on the other sheet. Place the pastries in the oven and bake for 5 minutes, until they’ve started to rise. Remove the puffs from the oven and allow to cool slightly.

Partially baked puffs, ready to be topped with peaches

While the puffs are cooling, drain off the liquid from the peaches and set the peach halves aside. Note that, if you’ve simmered fresh peaches in simple syrup, reserve the syrup. If using canned peaches, you can discard the canning juices.

Using a pastry or basting brush, brush the partially baked puffs with simple syrup. Place a peach half in the center of each puff and generously coat the fruit with simple syrup. If using pearl sugar, sprinkle it on the edges of the pastry. Return the baking sheets to the oven and bake for 5 to 7 minutes, until the pastries have turned golden in color. Remove the peach puffs from the oven and cool completely before serving.

2016’s Books for Cooks

Published by Kathy Hunt

this year's selection of books for cooks

2016’s selection of books for cooks

Yes, I’m squeezing in my seasonal list of books for cooks at the very last minute. This year I’ve got suggestions for readers, history lovers, bakers, spice fans, travel buffs and, of course, cooks. You won’t see any titles by social media darlings or celebrity chefs—if you read Kitchen Kat, you probably already know how to scramble an egg and you probably aren’t going to serve stuffed, roasted goat hearts at your next family gathering—but you will find a wealth of information, solid recipes and great gifts in this mix.

Waste Free Kitchen Handbook by Dana Gunders (Chronicle Books, 2015)
A scientist with the Natural Resources Defense Council, Gunders offers tips for shopping smarter, eating more of what we purchase and throwing away less food. She also provides recipes for making the most of what we have on hand; this includes dishes such as Sautéed Lettuce and Broccoli Stalk Salad. My favorite sections don’t include recipes but instead focus on portion planning, food storage and uses for leftovers and food scraps. Spend less, waste less and buy and eat more consciously with the Waste Free Kitchen Handbook.

Scandinavian Baking by Trine Hahnemann (Quadrille, 2015)
Broken into three parts—sweet treats such as cakes, cookies and pastries, breads and savory tarts and “Midsummer Cake Party”—Scandinavian Baking presents a modern take on Scandinavian baked goods. Danish chef and food writer Hahnemann guides readers through over 100 recipes for such specialties as jam danishes, spiced buns and meringue-topped rhubarb cake. Anecdotes and color photographs enliven this charming cookbook.

Ingredienti by Marcella Hazan and Victor Hazan (Scribner, 2016)
I always think of Marcella Hazan as Italy’s Julia Child; she made authentic Italian cooking approachable for the American home cook. In Ingredienti Victor Hazan presents his late wife’s thoughts on the essential ingredients of Italian cooking. Translated from Marcella’s notebooks, this small but thorough tome discusses everything from artichokes and zucchini to cured meats and olive oil. How to select, store, clean, prepare and pair each ingredient is likewise covered. Engaging and informative, this lovely book would please both readers and cooks.

Far Afield by Shane Mitchell (Ten Speed Press, 2016)
In Far Afield Mitchell presents his culinary travel experiences alongside the dramatic photos of James Fisher. Forty recipes for such region-specific dishes as Hawaiian Pineapple Pie and Mexican Black Beans are scattered throughout the book. Possessing the tag line “rare food encounters from around the world,” this is the book that I would like to write. It’s also the book that I would give to photography lovers, travelers, readers and curious cooks.

The Nordic Cookbook by Magnus Nilsson (Phaidon, 2015)
If you’ve ever wondered how to make your own gravlax or what lingonberries are or are just curious about the history and cuisine of Denmark, the Faroe Islands, Finland, Greenland, Iceland, Norway or Sweden, you’ll want to pick up Nilsson’s magnum opus on Nordic cooking. With over 700 recipes and a wealth of color photos his weighty book offers unique insights into the culinary history, ingredients and techniques of the Nordic region. You can use The Nordic Cookbook as a guide to Nordic life, a cookbook for the region’s cuisines or a fascinating history of food and drink in these Northern European lands.

The Book of Spice by John O’Connell (Pegasus Books, 2016)
If you or someone on your holiday list has an interest in the history, impact and uses of spices, O’Connell’s The Book of Spice is the book to buy. O’Connell devotes the final chapter to spice blends and describes what goes into such mixtures as green and red curry pastes and apple pie mix. It’s a useful resource for cooks and an entertaining book for readers and history buffs. Please note that, like Hazan’s Ingredienti, recipes are not included.

The Encyclopedia of Sandwiches by Susan Russo (Quirk Books, 2010)
I’m always on the lookout for quirky but worthwhile food books like Susan Russo’s The Encyclopedia of Sandwiches. This compact cookbook serves up history, trivia and recipes for sandwiches from around the globe. American favorites such as grilled cheese, egg salad sandwiches and BLTs go head-to-head with regional specialities such as West Virginia’s fried baloney, New Orlean’s muffuletta and New England’s lobster roll. Recipes for such country-specific sandwiches as Mexico’s tortas, Cuba’s cubanos and England’s chip butty are among the gems on offer. This is a fantastic book for any cook. After all, who doesn’t love a good, homemade sandwich?

Oyster by Drew Smith (Abrams, 2015)
With Oyster readers learn the long, rich history of oysters and how these bivalves influenced art, literature, cooking and commerce throughout the centuries. In Oyster cooks and seafood fans receive 50 classic and contemporary recipes and practical tips. Featuring color illustrations and photographs, Smith’s hardcover is pretty enough to be a coffee table book yet practical and informative enough to be valuable for all cooks.

Bake: Essential Companion by Alison Thompson (Tuttle Publishing, 2015)
Here’s another treat for both new and accomplished bakers. In Bake Australian pastry chef and author Alison Thompson delivers 200 recipes for and lessons in making yeast breads, pastries, croissants muffins, scones, cookies, cakes and gluten-free goodies. A few Australian specialities, such as Lamingtons, pavlovas and Anzacs, also grace the pages of this approachable cookbook.

Thai Food by David Thompson (Ten Speed Press, 2002)
Chef, food writer and restaurateur David Thompson spent 10 years working on Thai Food and it shows. This 673-page cookbook carefully details the culture, traditional recipes, ingredients and techniques of Thai cooking. Recognizable dishes such as red and green curries, crispy noodles and green papaya salad appear alongside less familiar but equally traditional foods such as prawns simmered in caramel and sugar cane, mangosteen and mussel curry and “golden teardrops.” Fascinating headnotes and illustrative photos appear throughout the book. If you or your gift recipients love cooking and eating Thai, then David Thompson’s exhaustive Thai Food is a must.

The Antarctic Book of Cooking and Cleaning by Wendy Trusler and Carol Devine (Harper Design, 2015)
One part travel journal, one part history, one part report on the civilian clean-up of Antarctica and one part cookbook, The Antarctic Book of Cooking and Cleaning immerses readers in polar life. As someone long fascinated with Antarctica, I devoured the stories, photos and menus shared by Trusler and Devine. I also appreciated the 40 or so straightforward recipes such as Spiced Tea, White Bean and Garlic Soup and Fruit Nut Rings. Whether you share my interest in this continent or just like reading about food, travel, the environment, politics or history, you will enjoy this rare and thoughtful book.

Tips for Cut-Out Cookies and Austrian Cinnamon Stars

Published by Kathy Hunt

Gluten-free homemade cinnamon stars and circles make festive cut-out cookies./

Whenever I make the gluten-free, cut-out cookies Austrian Cinnamon Stars, I think of my late father. Although he was neither an ardent cook nor baker, every holiday season he and I spent at least one night in the kitchen baking and decorating cut-out Christmas cookies. The tricks he employed to ensure beautiful holiday sweets are ones that I use to this day.

If making the aforementioned Austrian cinnamon stars and any other cut-out cookies possessing a soft, sticky texture, I refrigerate the dough for at least 30 minutes before rolling it out. After mixing the ingredients for the cookie dough, I shape it into a ball, cover it with plastic wrap and refrigerate until firm, about 30 minutes. Depending on the size and tackiness of the dough, it may need to stay in the fridge for a little longer or shorter. No matter what, it shouldn’t get cold and stiff. If it reaches that stage, it’ll be difficult to roll and cut.

A soft, rich and sticky dough should be chilled before being rolled out.

Another trick that my father taught me was that, to stop cookie dough from sticking to the rolling pin, use a piece of parchment or wax paper as my work surface and, in the case of Austrian cinnamon stars, dust confectioner’s sugar over it. Plop the dough in the center of the work surface, sprinkle more confectioner’s sugar — or flour, if making other cookies — over the top and place another piece of parchment or wax paper on top of that. Roll out the dough to the desired thickness. Once that’s accomplished, chill it slightly before cutting out the cookies. Note that the rolled out dough stays between the papers until it’s ready to be cut.

An assortment of cookie cutters

One problem that my dad and I encountered early on in our annual baking stint was getting a perfectly shaped cookie safely onto the baking sheet. Perhaps it was the meticulous engineer or hobbyist woodworker in him but my father would painstakingly run a sharp paring knife around the cookie cutter before lifting it from the dough. He would then do the same around the interior of the cutter, loosening the dough from the form. A slight tap on the side or top of the cutter and the cookie fell gently onto the greased baking sheet. This took time and perseverance but our snowmen, Santas and candy canes were all uniform in size and shape.

Since I lack my late father’s patience and precision, I use a different trick, one that he might appreciate. I keep my tools clean and cool. Before cutting out cookies, I run my cutters under cold water. After drying, they’re ready to go. If any dough starts to collect around the rims, I wash them under cold, running water again. I follow this practice not only for Austrian cinnamon stars but also for any other cut-out cookie that I make.

I mentioned Austrian cinnamon stars in an earlier post on what to eat at European Christmas markets. Known in Austria as zimtsterne, these star-shaped, cut-out cookies contain ground almonds, cinnamon, egg whites, confectioner’s and cherry liqueur. They are a lovely sweet and a perfect way to employ all of my father’s techniques.

AUSTRIAN CINNAMON STARS (ZIMTSTERNE)

Makes approximately 3 dozen cookies

2 large egg whites
1 1/2 cups confectioner’s sugar, sifted, plus more for dusting
2 cups ground almonds
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
1 1/2 teaspoons kirsch
Pinch nutmeg
Pinch salt

In medium bowl beat the egg whites until soft peaks form. Once you have soft peaks, slowly add the confectioner’s sugar, beating with each addition until the mixture is smooth and glossy.

Spoon out 1/3 cup of sugary egg whites, place in another bowl and set aside. You will use this later to ice your cookies.

Fold the almonds, cinnamon, kirsch, nutmeg and salt into the remaining . When the ingredients are fully incorporated, you will have a sticky dough. Cover it with plastic wrap and refrigerate for a minimum of 30 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper. Dust a clean work surface with confectioner’s sugar.

Place the dough on the dusted work surface. Sprinkle more confectioner’s sugar on top of the dough to make it less sticky.

Lay a large piece of parchment paper over the sugar-dusted dough. Using a rolling pin, roll out the dough to about 1/4-inch thickness.

Remove the parchment paper. Using a star-shaped cookie cutter, cut out the cookies and place them on the parchment-lined baking sheets. If at any point the cookie cutter becomes caked in dough, rinse it off under cold, running water.

Spread a thin layer of leftover meringue over each cookie. If the meringue icing has hardened and is difficult to spread, add a drop or two of water to the mixture and stir until well combined. Continue spreading over the cookies until all the stars are iced.

Bake the cookies for 10 to 13 minutes or until the icing has set but has not begun to brown. Remove the cookies from the oven and allow them to cool for 5 minutes. Remove them from the baking sheets and cool completely on wire racks before storing in airtight containers.

What to Eat at European Christmas Markets

Published by Kathy Hunt

View of Old Town Prague’s Christmas Market as seen from Old Town Hall Tower

My mother used to claim that I inherited my wanderlust from her late father, a civil and mining engineer who worked and traveled throughout Latin America. If he was to blame for my “itchy feet,” that unceasing desire to roam the globe, then she bore responsibility for my passion for European Christmas markets. As a kid, I spent countless Saturdays following her through crowded church Christmas bazaars. Which faith sponsored the event never mattered. As long as it featured homemade pizzelles, kolaches, stollen or fruitcake, we’d be there.

A curious kid, I wondered how my hometown’s holiday bazaars stacked up against those in people’s homelands. If I visited Germany’s Striezelmarkt, would ladies jostle and push for the last few loaves of nut-studded stollen? If I went to Poland, would people nibble on onion- and potato-filled pierogis as they shopped? What did people eat at European Christmas markets? For that matter, did they even have these seasonal fairs?

It’s everyone’s favorite, “fruit loaf!”

Turns out that Europe is chocked full of cheery, outdoor, holiday markets. Along with decorations, crafts and jewelry, they invariably have at least one stall dedicated to traditional Advent pastries and breads. Dresden, Germany goes so far as to hold a parade and slicing ceremony in honor of its signature bread, stollen. While most cities don’t go to this extent, all feature fruit-, nut- and spice-laced baked goods.

Mulled wine at Vienna's Stephensplatz Christmas market

Drinking mulled wine from a ceramic boot at Vienna, Austria’s Stephensplatz Christmas market

While I only remember hot chocolate, coffee and apple cider at those church bazaars, European Christmas markets feature a far more festive drink, mulled wine. Depending on what country you visit, look for glühwein (Germanic language countries), vin chaud (French-speaking lands), glogg (Nordic regions) or jolly groups of shoppers sipping from steaming ceramic mugs. It’s a great way to warm up on a blustery day or night!

Bags of chestnuts at a European Christmas market

Chestnuts waiting to be roasted in Cologne, Germany

Before a December trip to France I had always thought of chestnuts and “chestnuts roasting on an open fire” as the stuff of romantic tales. Boy, was I ever wrong. Nothing says “winter in Europe” like the sweet, smoky smell of roasted chestnuts. No matter where you go in Europe, you can wander into a town square and find chestnuts cooking in a pan over an open flame.

Waiting for fresh, hot Belgian waffles, Liege-style, in Antwerp, Belgium

High on my list of market treats is a fresh, hot Belgian waffle. Firmer, sweeter and more substantial than an American-style waffle, it comes in two varieties, Brussels and Liege. I’m partial to the denser Liege but you will usually find both on offer. To fully enjoy the flavor, skip the ice cream and sauces and order it with just a sprinkling of sugar on top.

Austrian cinnamon stars , or zimtsterne, in Vienna

A jewel box of a city, Vienna, Austria sparkles at Christmastime. The twinkling lights, the elegant architecture, the cinnamon stars. Yes, cinnamon stars. A holiday specialty, these small, iced cookies consist of ground almonds, cinnamon, egg whites and the German cherry liqueur kirsch. Delicious to eat straight from the bag, they can also be boxed and given as gifts during the holiday season.

Frying up potato pancakes in Berlin, Germany

For those rare times when I’ve had my fill of cookies, waffles, chestnuts, candy and drinks, I might order German potato pancakes or Czech potato spirals. Granted, they’re fried in hot oil but it’s the holidays and I’ve already consumed half my weight in sweets. I might as well indulge a little more. As for that other Western Pennsylvania favorite pierogis, while I didn’t come across them in the Czech Republic, I may encounter them in Poland later this month. I’ll keep you posted.

Potato spirals in Prague, Czech Republic

Eating Breakfast in Australia

Published by Kathy Hunt

Starting the day with coffee and Tim Tams in Bairnsdale, Victoria.

Travel can sound so appealing. Historic sites. Unusual wildlife. Exotic cultures, customs and cuisines. There is a less glamorous side, one that gets glossed over by pretty photos and exciting tales. It involves doing what you’d do back at home but with far less understanding or finesse. I’m talking about the day-to-day things such as grocery shopping and eating.

On any trip I spend a ridiculous amount of time thinking about what, when and where I’ll eat. The meal over which I obsess the most, the one where I try my hardest to eat as I think the locals do is “the most important meal of the day.” Yes, I’m talking about breakfast and, at present, breakfast in Australia.

Breakfast pikelets, jam and cream on Phillip Island, Victoria

After two weeks in Australia I’ve sampled a range of local breakfast specialties. Although meat products remain absent from my menu, I have added pikelets to the morning repertoire. No, these are not little fish cakes as fans of pike might assume. Ever had dollar pancakes? Then you’ve had a fluffier, syrup-soaked version of pikelets. Sprinkled with confectioner’s sugar and paired with jam and whipped cream, they kick off my day in a very indulgent way.

No less sweet but a tad less traditional are the chocolate wafer cookies Tim Tams. People dunk Tim Tams in coffee or use them as a straw to slurp up that morning cup of joe. I attempted and failed to do the latter, known as the “Tim Tam Slam,” in the above video. Don’t worry. I’ll keep practicing. It won’t be a hardship to master this technique.

Apple-cinnamon muffin for breakfast in NSW

Warm apple-cinnamon muffin for breakfast in Broken Hill, New South Wales

When ordered at a coffee shop, my morning flat white usually gets partnered with a warmed baked good. Here muffins, quick breads, croissants and doughnuts get toasted or popped into a microwave for 30 seconds before serving. I’m not a huge fan of re-heated pastries; doughnuts tend to get greasier and taste like cooking oil while croissants just get limp and chewy. Even so, I’ve yet to turn down the offer of a free sweet with my coffee.

Vegemite, cheese and toast for breakfast in Broken Hill, NSW

Vegemite falls at the opposite end of the flavor spectrum and of my favorite breakfasts. Made from brewer’s yeast extract, Vegemite has a pungent, salty, bitter taste that reminds me of a bouillon cube or a paste made from soy sauce. As with the similar British spread Marmite, Australians slather Vegemite over toast and sometimes pair the duo with cheese and/or butter.

Bread, cheese and honey, the go-to meal when traveling

Enjoying the go-to travel meal of bread, cheese and honey in Paynesville, Victoria

Rather than sully a good piece of bread and cheese with Vegemite, I’d rather stick with an old travel standby, a hunk of bread and a wedge of cheese. On this journey I’ve lucked out and found a plethora of outstanding, local bakeries as well as cheese and honey makers to supply me with all three. As with Tim Tams and muffins, savor your bread and cheese throughout the day. If you don’t have to drive anywhere, wash the combo down with a glass of Shiraz or cold Gold XXXX. Why not? You’re on holiday! And, if you’re feeling bold, do try Vegemite on toast.

VEGEMITE ON TOAST
Serves 1

2 slices white or rye bread, toasted
Butter, to taste
1 to 2 teaspoons Vegemite
2 slices of mild cheddar, optional

Butter the warm toast. Spread a thin layer of Vegemite over each piece. Place an optional slice of mild cheddar on top of the Vegemite and bite into this classic meal.