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In and around Agra – Fatehpur Sikri and the Agra Fort

Published by Kathy Hunt

Due to a great monsoon rate at our luxurious hotel in Agra, Sean and I decided to spend three nights in this sultry city. The extra time afforded us the rare opportunity to relax, explore a major site per day and return to the Taj Mahal and enjoy it at our leisure.

On our second day in Agra we took a nail-biting, 50 minute drive to the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Fatehpur Sikri. Fans of the writer Salman Rushdie may remember Fatehpur Sikri as the setting for his 2008 novel “The Enchantress of Florence.” Others may know it as the Mughal emperor Akbar’s “ghost city.” Due to a water shortage the settlement was abandoned in 1585, only 14 years after its construction and shortly after the death of Akbar. For being uninhabited for over four centuries Fatehpur Sikri remained in spectacular shape.

The Jama Masjid (Dargah Mosque), which we visited first, was completed in 1571. Inside its courtyard rested the marble tomb of Shaikh Salim Chisti, the saint whom the Emperor Akbar had consulted throughout his reign. Childless women now visit the mausoleum and tie colorful strings to the marble lattice screens. Each thread represents a request for the saint to grant children to these women.

From the mosque we walked uphill to the palace complex. There we saw the large and ornate Palace of Jodh Bai, the emperor’s favorite wife and the smaller palaces of his Christian wife Mariam and another unnamed spouse. Other spectacular sandstone structures included the five-story Panch Mahal, a pavilion used by the court ladies, the Hall of Private Audience, the Hall of Public Audience and the 21-meter high Hiran Minar tower. Decorated with stone replicas of elephant tusks, the tower supposedly marked the final resting place of Akbar’s favorite elephant.

Back in Agra we tromped around another Akbar-inspired site, the 16th century Agra Fort. Unlike European forts, Indian forts invariably contained elaborate palaces, gardens, meeting halls and courtyards. They were cities within cities. Agra Fort proved to be no different.

Akbar’s grandson, Shah Jahan, oversaw the completion of the fort. As a result, it displayed an abundance of white marble buildings, decorated in a fashion similar to his masterpiece, the Taj Mahal. It also possessed both Hindu and Moghul architectural influences.

Thanks to his zealous, hardliner son Aurangzeb, Shah Jahan spent his last eight years under house arrest at the fort. From his window he could gaze out at the Taj Mahal on the opposite bank of the Yamuna River. Not much of a consolation for him but it makes a good story for the rest of us.

The Taj Mahal – Agra, India

Published by Kathy Hunt

You — or at least I — cannot travel to India without seeing the majestic Taj Mahal. One of the seven wonders of the world, this mausoleum was built by the emperor Shah Jahan for his second wife and the love of his life, Mumtaz. She died giving birth to his 14th child in 1631. From the Indian marble mausoleum and red sandstone gates to sandstone and marble mosque and guesthouse the site took 22 years to complete. Time and effort paid off for the Taj is truly an architectural and aesthetic marvel. Believe me, I’ll be dreaming of this jaw-dropping monument for decades.

Since so much has been written and said about the Taj Mahal, I’d like instead to offer tips for visiting this site. This will save me from having to think of something beyond my initial and lingering reaction of “Wow! Wow! Wow!” Plus, it also may provide fellow travelers with a few useful tidbits.

Guides: Your hotel concierge and the hordes of men lining the initial entrance to the Taj will insist that you hire a guide. Without him (it’s always a man) to explain the site and keep the hawkers at the front gate at bay, you won’t get much from your trip to the tomb. Truthfully, if you’ve read about the Taj in a good guidebook beforehand, you’ll have no problem navigating the well-manicured grounds.

Sean and I had the time and luxury of making two trips to the Taj, with and without guide. We were far happier on our own. The reason? Without a guide we could linger for as long as we liked, take as many photos as we desired and just stand, slack-jawed, in awe of the beauty before us. With a guide we felt pressured to keep moving and to listen to his every word, periodically missing what we were there to experience — the Taj Mahal.

More on guides and the whole aggressive, local vendor angle: Likewise, if you are an intrepid, independent traveler — and, let’s face it, you probably are if you’re hanging out in India — you know how to handle the pushy peddlers. In our experiences the touts have been far more hardcore in places such as Turkey, Mexico and Morocco. Here, if you ignore their pleas of “Madame, madame. I have something to show for you,” they leave you alone. And did they not bother us when we had a guide? Nope. Men and boys alike still attempted to sell us trinkets, rickshaw rides and even tour guides for other sites.

Backpacks, bags, paper of any kind: Leave them in your room or car. Otherwise, you’ll wait in the long security line only to be told that you can’t enter the site without first checking your bag. Our “Happy Holidays” sign, used in our annual holiday card, ended up in the trash because I couldn’t bear the thought of queuing up again.

Water bottles and cameras: Both are allowed on the site. Absolutely bring both. Combined, Sean and I took close to 400 photos on our two trips to the Taj. As for the water, I drank a liter each time. It truly is that hot and parching in India.

When to visit: Early morning or an hour before dusk. The crowds are lighter. The temperature is slightly lower (mid to upper 90s). And, perhaps most importantly for us, the lighting is stunning. At night the marble glows in the sunset. Just breathtaking!

Dazzling Delhi

Published by Kathy Hunt

One city. Countless facets. It’s the land of government, commerce, religion, modernity, antiquity, wealth, poverty, lush gardens, dusty streets. Just when you think that you have Delhi pigeon holed, it changes yet again.

Such diversity spawns a wide range of sites and activities. Along with visiting mosques, temples and gardens, Sean and I sweated it out with an afternoon trip to Qutub Minar. An impressive monument from the period of Islamic rule in India, the Minar was constructed in 1193. Today it is surrounded by the remains of Mughal summer palaces.

We also wandered around the grounds of the 16th century Humayun’s Tomb and 18th century Safdarjang’s Tomb. Emperor Humayun’s grand burial site was initiated by his wife, who camped out and oversaw its construction until its completion. Viceroy Safdarjang’s son prompted the creation of his father’s majestic tomb. It is one of the most recent examples of Mughal architecture in India.

A contemporary site that drew in throngs was the memorial for Mahatma Gandhi. Here the brick platform on which his funeral pyre had been built was encased in marble for all to see. An elegant yet understated tribute to the father of modern India.

Although shopping never plays a huge role in our journeys, we did make a stop at the Khan Market. How could we not? It was right next to our hotel. Our driver, Sher-Singh, had described it as a ‘rich person’s place to shop.’ From the buildings’ faded exteriors we wouldn’t have guessed this. However, at Khan Market we found a well-stocked cookware shop, Nike, Reebok and Apple stores, beautiful handcrafted silver jewelry, several bookstores, an upscale pet shop and countless little restaurants.

One Hot Destination – Delhi, India

Published by Kathy Hunt

Many thought that Sean and I had lost our minds when we announced that we’d be spending much of August in India. Scorching heat. Monsoons. Not to mention all the wonderful diseases, such as Dengue fever, malaria, typhoid and polio, that we could contract. However, by day four we’re both alive, well and, beyond being drenched in sweat, dry each day.

Our sultry journey began in New Delhi, the bustling capital of this exotic land. On our first morning here we strolled over to Lodi Gardens where women in colorful saris and white running shoes jogged alongside men in shorts and T-shirts. As with all of Delhi, Lodi Gardens was dotted with ruins from the region’s Mughal period. Lodi was beautiful but, at 8 a.m., already quite a warm place to be — 90 degrees and climbing.

Following in the footsteps of locals and tourists alike, we rented not a car but a car and driver to take us around the city. Smart move. As in Turkey and Morocco, where Sean drove and I nervously navigated, the traffic is constant and chaotic. Unlike in the aforementioned countries, it’s comprised not only of cars and trucks but overloaded rickshaws, motorbikes, cyclists, pedestrians, 3-wheeled tuk tuks and the rare donkey, horse and elephant.

Our driver, Sher-Singh, carried us in air conditioned comfort to Old Delhi and the country’s largest mosque, Jama Masjid, where the courtyard alone holds 25,000 devotees. Tucked at the end of a lane teeming with people and traffic, the mosque was constructed under the ruler Shah Jahan. It is one of many mosques serving the large Muslim population in Northern India.

Along with mosques we also had the privilege of seeing Jain, Sikh and Hindu temples and, oddly enough, a huge Methodist church. One of the more unusual religious centers was the Akshar Dham Temple. Over 15,000 artisans and volunteers worked on this elaborate Hindu complex. Opened in 2005, Akshar Dham featured “boat” tours on the man-made canals around the temple, movies and an extensive food court.

A Dumpling by Any Other Name

Published by Kathy Hunt

When I tell friends that the first dumplings that I tasted were brown butter-coated gnocchi, more than a few eyebrows raise. Accustomed to the whole-apple-baked-inside-a-flaky-dough dumpling, they think that I am confused. How could I mistake a savory Italian entree for this luscious treat?

Made from a simple mixture of potatoes, flour and egg, gnocchi is, in fact, a savory, Italian dumpling. Like all dumplings, it originally provided a means to stretching meals and satisfying hunger at a time when appetite-sating meat was a rare luxury. Added to a soup or stew, it afforded an inexpensive means to expanding these dishes. Topped with a sauce, gravy, butter or meat drippings, it became economical and hearty entrees in its own right.

Historians quibble over gnocchi’s exact origins. More than likely these orbs of dough came to Italy via the Middle East during Roman times. Originally made from semolina, they later became known as Italian potato dumplings. Today you can enjoy not only potato-based gnocchi but also spinach, bread and the traditional semolina.

Toppings vary as well. Although I lean toward simpler sauces, such as brown butter or garlic and olive oil with a sprinkle of basil and Locatelli, I could just as easily blanket my gnocchi with pesto or marinara.

GNOCCHI

Serves 4

1 ½ pounds baking potatoes, peeled, cut, cooked and drained

1 large egg, beaten

1 teaspoon salt

freshly ground white pepper, to taste

pinch of freshly ground nutmeg

1 cup all purpose flour, more or less as needed

6 to 8 quarts salted water, for cooking

Using either a potato ricer or a food mill and a large bowl, puree the potatoes. Add the egg, salt, pepper, nutmeg and enough flour to make a soft, satiny dough. Depending on how moist the potatoes are, you may need to add more or less flour. Keep in mind that the more flour added, the heavier the dough (and gnocchi) will be.

Place the dough on a lightly floured surface and divide it into four equal portions. Roll the dough between your hands and work surface until a 1/2-inch thick strand has formed. Using a knife, cut off ¾-inch pieces and press one side of each piece into the tines of a fork. Place on a floured baking sheet and repeat the same process with the other portions.

Bring the salted water in a stockpot to a boil and cook the gnocchi in batches, about 5 to 8 minutes. They will float to the surface of the water when ready. Use a slotted spoon to remove the dumplings and place in bowls or on plates. Top with butter and grated Romano cheese, pesto or a marinara sauce and serve.

Spread Some Excitement

Published by Kathy Hunt

Tapenade. That piquant condiment found on virtually every dining table in the Mediterranean. Most people associate it with olives. Tapenade isn’t just about olives, though. Rather, this biting spread represents the successful marriage between capers and olives. In fact, its name comes from the French Provencale word for capers — tapeno.

To make a fresh tapenade takes only scant minutes and ingredients. Pitted olives, capers, anchovies and olive oil are either pulverized with a mortar and pestle or processed in a food processor until they become a chunky puree. The resultant tapenade is either served or refrigerated until ready to use.

And just how to utilize a tapenade? Along with slathering it on baguettes for a quick appetizer, Mediterranean cooks may spread it over seared fish steaks, grilled vegetables, crackers or warm pita bread. They may also employ it as a stuffing for oven-roasted tomatoes or as a savory dressing for sandwiches.

Simple to make and a pleasure to eat, tapenades are quite the Mediterranean treat.

OLIVE TAPENADE
Makes roughly 1 cup

½ pound Kalamata olives, pitted
1 tablespoon capers
2 cloves garlic, roughly chopped
1 tablespoon fresh parsley, roughly chopped
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 1/2 teaspoons lemon juice
¼ teaspoon ground black pepper

Place all of the ingredients in the bowl of a food processor and pulse until somewhat smooth. Serve immediately or refrigerate until ready to use.

Molten Chocolate Lava Land

Published by Kathy Hunt

I know that many will disagree but, for me, this decade will go down in history as the ten long years of molten chocolate lava cakes. My first experience with them came not in a restaurant but in my own kitchen. Armed with Nigella Lawson’s classic cookbook “How to Eat” (Wiley, 2000), I set out to create her gooey chocolate puddings. These wonderfully decadent treats, I later came to learn, are also known by such monikers as molten chocolate cakes, chocolate lava cakes, and chocolate cakes with warm ganache centers. Same dessert. Countless names.

Check out the dessert menu at any upscale and/or New American restaurant and I bet that you will spot this sweet. Every 21st century chef seems to have fallen for this moist and oozing chocolate specialty.

Although the recipe is quite simple, many mess up the molten chocolate lava cake (MCLC). Usually the chef has baked the pudding for far too long. Insert your fork into one of these overcooked MCLC’s and you’ll not see that glorious stream of steaming chocolate cascade onto your plate. Instead you’ll have a forkful of dry chocolate cake.

To avoid this disappointment, I’ve stopped ordering MCLC’s altogether. If I want to indulge in one, I’ll just make it a home. The recipe couldn’t be easier.

To make MCLC’s or gooey chocolate puddings as they’re called in Lawson’s cookbook, melt chocolate and butter together. Add the liquids to a mixture of sugar, flour and eggs and whisk until a smooth batter forms. Pour the batter into greased and floured ramekins and bake until the edges are firm and cracking but the centers are still very soft. Invert the warm MCLC on a plate and serve with ice cream, chocolate syrup, raspberry coulis or dusting of powdered sugar. If you’re as impatient as I am, you could also eat it straight from the ramekin.

GOOEY CHOCOLATE PUDDINGS
From Nigella Lawson’s “How to Eat” (John Wiley and Sons, 2000)
Serves 4

4½ ounces bittersweet chocolate
8 tablespoons unsalted butter
3 large eggs (or egg beaters)
¾ cup sugar
¼ cup all-purpose flour

Preheat oven to 400 degrees Fahrenheit.

Grease and flour 4 1-cup ramekins.

Put the chocolate and butter in a microwave-safe bowl and microwave, stirring occasionally, until chocolate is melted and the two are well-blended.

Whisk together the eggs, sugar and flour. Add the egg mixture to the chocolate mixture and whisk together.

Pour the pudding mix into the ramekins. Place them on a baking sheet and bake for 10 to 12 minutes until tops are set. Serve immediately.

Beignet v. Funnel Cake – Let the Games Begin

Published by Kathy Hunt

Beignets and cafe au lait at Cafe du Monde, New Orleans

Ah, beignets and funnel cakes. I can’t think of two more delectable, fried, sugar-coated snacks. After years of gorging on beignets each time that I visit New Orleans and of living next to Apple Frankie, the undisputed “funnel cake king,” I consider myself somewhat of an expert on the two. So, with a nod to the aforementioned A. Frankie, I shall attempt to determine, once and for all, which is truly the best greasy sweet.

Although I flew back from New Orleans over a month ago, beignets linger on my palate and mind. Blanketed with powdered sugar, these pillows of dough are served hot and as a trio at the Crescent City landmark Cafe du Monde. Light and oh-so sweet, they are a heavenly treat. To balance out the avalanche of sugar hitting my bloodstream and clothes, I pair beignets with a decaf, chicory-laced cafe au lait and plenty of napkins.

While I associate beignets with New Orleans, they actually originated in France. Made from the delicate, spongy pâte à choux, these airy, square pastries are found throughout the country. They likewise pop up in such French-influenced regions as Quebec and, of course, New Orleans.

Because of their lightness and semblance to a doughnut, I may eat beignets for breakfast or as a late night bite. I would not do this, though, with a funnel cake. Heartier and bigger than a beignet, this golden latticework of deep-fried batter seems better suited for dessert, if not for a decadent dinner.

Funnel cake fresh from the fryer

Not everyone shares my view. Called “drechter kuche” by its creators, the Pennsylvania Dutch, the funnel cake was reputedly served to farmers as a mid-morning snack. Today, however, most people consume them at street fairs, carnivals, festivals and concerts.

Unlike beignets, the funnel cake starts with a batter of eggs, milk, flour, brown sugar, vanilla and baking powder. Drizzled into a deep fryer, the resultant cake gets sprinkled with powdered sugar and optionally topped with apples, strawberries, or chocolate sauce. No question that it’s a bit heavier — and sweeter — than its French counterpart.

Funnel cake “heir” Cody Wilmer with three types of funnel cakes

So, which is the better deep-fried sweet? After years of random samples and thoughtful analysis I fear that I have to sit the fence on this one. Whether for breakfast, dessert, dinner or a late night snack both are a divine delicacy.

BEIGNETS

From Rima and Richard Collin’s “The New Orleans Cookbook” (Alfred A. Knopf, 2004)
Makes roughly 5 dozen beignets
*Note that the dough must be prepared in advance and refrigerated overnight. If you don’t wish to make the beignets right away, the dough will keep for 1 week in the refrigerator.

1 1/2 cup warm water
1 package active dry yeast
1/2 cup sugar
1 teaspoon salt
2 large eggs
1 cup undiluted canned evaporated milk
7 cups flour
1/4 vegetable shortening
oil for deep frying
confectioner’s sugar

Put the warm water in a large bowl, add the dry yeast and stir until thoroughly dissolved. Add the sugar, salt, eggs and evaporated milk. Slowly stir in 4 cups of flour. Beat with a wooden spoon until smooth and well combined. Beat in the shortening then add the remaining flour, about 1/3 cup at a time. Stir until it becomes too stiff to do so and then work the dough with your fingers. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.

On a clean, floured surface roll out the dough to a thickness of 1/8-inch. Using a sharp knife, cut the dough into rectangles measuring 2 1/2 inches by 3 1/2 inches.

Preheat the oven to 200 degrees Fahrenheit. Preheat the oil in a deep fryer to 360 degrees Fahrenheit.

Fry 3 or 4 beignets at a time until they are puffed and golden brown on both sides, about 2 to 3 minutes per batch. Using tongs, turn them over once or twice so that they are evenly browned. Drain each batch on a wire cooling rack. Place them on a platter covered with paper towels and put the platter in the oven to keep warm. Repeat with the remaining beignets.

Beignets!

Liberally cover the beignets with powdered sugar and serve hot. Yum!

It's Al Fresco Dining Time!

Published by Kathy Hunt

On the East Coast we’re in the middle of a spring heat wave. Sunshine. Ninety degrees. Pleasant breeze. All this beautiful weather spurs me to do one thing — drag my deathly pale, vitamin-D deprived body outside to dine al fresco.

Italian for “fresh” or “open air,” al fresco refers quite simply to eating outdoors. At one time I thought that this was ridiculous. Who wants to swat away flies and bees, listen to irksome traffic and breath in pungent car exhaust as she eats? As it turns out, I do. As soon as the thermometer tops 55 and restaurants start erecting those towering, tree-like space heaters, I’m sliding into a wrought iron cafe chair and dining in the bracing spring air.

Bundled up, waiting for lunch in early March

Why the radical change of heart? After a cold, dark winter spent indoors I no longer can bear to waste a minute of sunlight. Pass me my sunglasses and I’ll be off to bask in the sun and nosh on refreshing, seasonal fare.

No gazpacho or vichyssoise on the menu? No problem. Although lighter dishes seem more appropriate for an al fresco atmosphere, I’m not opposed to a plate of spaghetti or bowl of hot parsnip soup. As long as I can consume it under bright skies and in fresh air, I’ll be happy with the cuisine.

When cooking for an al fresco night at home, I tend to steer clear of heavier foods. A chilled couscous salad, plate of steamed asparagus, zahtar-seasoned chicken or simply a bowl of strawberries Romanoff are all favorite offerings for a warm evening of outdoor eating.

CHILLED COUSCOUS SALAD
Serves 6 to 8

8 ounces Israeli couscous
12 ounce can of chopped tomatoes, drained
2 red bell peppers, finely chopped
2 scallions, finely chopped
1 cucumber, peeled, seeded and chopped into small chunks
3 tablespoons of Moroccan (black) olives, finely chopped
handful of chickpeas
¼ cup of freshly squeezed lemon juice
¼ cup of olive oil
1 teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon curry powder
½ teaspoon cayenne pepper

Cook the couscous per package’s instructions then tumble into a large bowl.

Add the tomatoes, peppers, scallions, cucumber, olives and chickpeas to the couscous. Toss to combine.

Whisk together the lemon juice, olive oil, cumin, curry and cayenne pepper then pour over the couscous. Stir until dressing is evenly distributed. Refrigerate and allow the salad to absorb the dressing for at least 1 hour. Serve cold or at room temperature.

CHICKEN ZAHTAR
Serves 4

½ cup olive oil
4 chicken breasts
2 to 4 tablespoons zahtar
sea salt

Pour the oil in a baking dish and put the chicken breast in the oil, flipping over and coating each side completely. Sprinkle the zahtar on both sides of the breast, patting the flesh to embed the slivers of sesame seeds, etc.

Cover, refrigerate and allow to marinate for a few hours.

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees Fahrenheit. Place the chicken in a room temperature baking dish and insert in the oven. Roast for 45 minutes or slightly longer, until chicken is well-cooked. Sprinkle over a little sea salt and serve.

STRAWBERRIES ROMANOFF IN MERINGUES
Courtesy of Liz Theisen
Serves 10

2 quarts ripe strawberries, washed
1 (6-ounce) can frozen orange juice concentrate, defrosted
1 cup port wine
Sugar
3 tablespoons Mandarine liqueur
2 cups heavy whipping cream
Forgotten Meringues (recipe follows)
Flowers or flower petals or shelled pistachios

For Meringues:
6 egg whites
1-½ teaspoons lemon juice or ½ teaspoon cream of tartar
2 cups sugar

Hull strawberries and place in a large bowl. Add orange juice concentrate and port and season to taste with a little sugar, if desired. Gently stir and allow berries to mellow in this mixture for 2 hours. Add Mandarine liqueur, taste and add more sugar, if desired. Whip cream with or without sugar to taste. Fill meringue shells with berries, garnish with flowers or pistachios and serve with whipped cream on the side. Serves about 10.

Forgotten Meringues: (These meringues bake while you sleep.)

Beat egg whites with lemon juice or cream of tartar until frothy. Gradually add sugar and beat until stiff and glossy. Pipe into 12 nest shapes or drop by small spoonfuls in circles on brown paper on a baking sheet.

Place tray in preheated 400-degree oven, close door and turn off the heat. (Don’t peak!) Let stand overnight in the oven. Meringues will be baked by morning. Makes 12.

Ireland's Windy West Coast

Published by Kathy Hunt

Kylemore Abbey at base of Duchruach Hill

Returning to a holiday spot does have its perks. Since Sean and I had hit most of the major sites — Newgrange, Cliffs of Moher, Dingle Peninsula, Ring of Kerry, Blarney Castle and Belfast, Dunluce Castle and the Giant’s Causeway in Northern Ireland — previously, we opted to explore the less visited but no less beautiful attractions of the Republic’s west coast. Smart move! This region has it all — majestic mountain ranges, crystal clear lakes, loads of grazing sheep, quaint villages, good restaurants and a wealth of historic sites.

16th century Portmuna Castle, Portumna

Portumna Castle – Built in the 16th century, Portumna Castle was left in ruins after an 1826 fire. Restoration work began 30 years ago and continues to this day. Beautiful setting. Bad camera karma. Here my latest Nikon, the D200, breathed its last breath. What is it about Ireland and my cameras?

Galway with part of the Spanish arch to the far left

Galway — Possessing few historic sites, this medieval, coastal, Gaelic-speaking city may not be the most obvious destination. However, fresh seafood, excellent pubs and a vibrant downtown scene make Galway a perfect stopping point. You can also catch a ferry to the Aran Islands from here.

Aughnanure Castle, Oughterard

Aughnanure Castle — Built along the Drimneen River and supported by natural archways, much of this 13th century castle tumbled into the water centuries ago. The human inhabitants may be long gone but hundreds of bats now reside in the tower house roof. Impressive tower. Cool atmosphere.

Kylemore Abbey — This 19th century castle sits beside a lake at the base of Duchruach Hill. Quite a dramatic setting for what is now a Benedictine girls’ boarding school. For 13 Euros (about $17) you can visit three rooms in Kylemore Abbey or you can just snap photos from outside for free.

Woman pushing bike uphill on Inishmore

The Aran Islands a/k/a Inishmore, Inishmaan and Inisheer — You’ve read the story. You’ve seen the pictures. For more information, check out the Aran Islands website.

Mountain range and lake in the Connemara, County Galway

Connemara — A vast region of land west of Galway city, Connemara is a jumble of coastlines, mountain ranges, fjords, bogs, fields and beaches. It’s also a spectacular area to hike, photograph or stop for a picnic.

Heron coming in for a landing outside our room at the Maltings

Grey Herons –Think of them as the pigeons of Ireland’s west coast; they are everywhere! Their huge nests dot the tree tops, sometimes with as many as five per tree. Look for them near lakes, rivers and streams and, if you are as lucky as we were, outside your hotel room.