Published by Zester Daily on February 23, 2011

If you’ve ever whiled away weeks in sunny Portugal or just dined at a neighborhood Portuguese or Brazilian restaurant, you’ve undoubtedly come across at least one dish featuring bacalhau. A signature ingredient of Portuguese cooking, bacalhau refers to salt-cured and sun-dried cod. Flaky yet firm and possessing a slight tang, salt cod is a beloved food in this coastal European land.

Although I first encountered it in the 21st century, bacalhau has wowed Portuguese palates since medieval times. In the 16th century, Portuguese explorers and fishermen discovered vast quantities of cod off the coast of Newfoundland. To preserve their huge catches, the men would salt and then sun-dry their bounty. The low-fat cod responded well to salting, lasting longer and tasting better than other preserved fish.

Along with extended shelf life and tastiness, faith propelled the popularity of salt cod. Catholics who observed meatless days needed a stockpile of fish for their meat-free meals. The one that they chose was bacalhau. Portugal wasn’t alone in its use of this preserved fish. Italy, Spain, the Caribbean and parts of France, South America and Africa all had recipes calling for salt cod. Yet none exhibited the same passion for this fiel amigo or faithful friend.
Once abundant, now scarce

Today, Portuguese fishermen no longer sail along the coast of Newfoundland in search of cod to cure. Severely depleted populations caused by overfishing have brought an end to that practice. Instead, Portugal buys the bulk of its bacalhau from Norway.

This change is visible. On a recent vacation in Portugal the rows of wire drying racks that I saw scattered along the coastline brimmed primarily with small, grayish sardines and not big, white slabs of cod. In spite of the depleted supply and the need to import it, bacalhau remains a perennial favorite in Portugal. It has been said that the Portuguese have created at least 365 recipes for their favored fish, one for every day of the year.
One fish, countless dishes

I can believe this claim. Depending on where I travel in the country, I can enjoy such flavorful, regional offerings as bacalhau fritters with spicy piri piri sauce, bacalhau dorado or salt cod with scrambled eggs and potatoes, and bacalhau à moda de Viana, salt cod wrapped in cabbage. You name the ingredients and preparation technique — chances are that there will be a bacalhau recipe to match them.

In Portugal fishmongers may sell up to a dozen different grades of bacalhau. Unfortunately, back at home I don’t have such diversity at my disposal. When selecting salt cod, I look for white flesh, with or without a frost of salt on it. I skip those possessing a yellow tinge or pink hue along the spine.
Preparation takes care

Before cooking my bacalhau, I place it in a large bowl of cold water and allow it to soak for 18 hours. During that period I change the water three times, roughly once every six hours. By soaking the cod in clean, cold water, I not only reconstitute the fish but also reduce its saltiness. If needed, I can always add more salt after cooking. This, however, has never been the case.

By the time I finally remove the bacalhau from the water it will have doubled in volume. It will also be considerably less salty than when I purchased it. If the cod still seems too salty, I can always return it to the bowl and allow it to steep a bit longer. I’ve known cooks who soak their bacalhau for as long as two days or for as little as 12 hours. With salt cod, much depends upon taste.

Once my fish is plumped up and ready for cooking, I remove any remaining bones from it. I also slip off the skin. Depending on how I’m preparing the cod, I may cut it into even-sized filets or I may mince or flake it. From there I can dip the bacalhau in bread crumbs and bake or pan-fry it. I could place it in a baking dish with potatoes and onions and bake a casserole or pie. Minced and mixed with mashed potatoes, parsley and egg, it can be fried as a fritter. The cooking options seem endless.

That’s the beauty of salt cod: One fish. Countless recipes. No wonder the Portuguese remain so smitten with bacalhau.

Salt Cod and Potato Casserole

Serves 6

Ingredients
1 pound salt cod, soaked in water for 18 hours and then drained
6 cups boiling water
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
4 tablespoons olive oil
1 yellow onion, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, grated
2 pounds potatoes, peeled, boiled until just tender and thinly sliced
½ teaspoon ground white pepper
½ teaspoon dried oregano
⅓ cup fresh flat-leaf parsley, minced
½ cup bread crumbs, lightly toasted under the broiler
¼ cup grated Romano cheese

Directions

1. Preheat the oven to 350 F. Butter a 2-quart casserole or baking dish.
2. Place the cod in a saucepan, pour the boiling water over it and then simmer over moderate heat for 10 minutes, until a fork can flake the fish. Drain and rinse the cod and then flake it into small pieces, removing any skin or bones.
3. In a large sauté pan melt the butter and 1 tablespoon olive oil. Add the onion and sauté until golden, about 10 minutes. Place the onions in a bowl and then add the remaining 3 tablespoons of olive oil and the sliced potatoes to the pan. Cook for 5 minutes.
4. Place half the potatoes in the buttered dish and season them with a bit of ground pepper, dried oregano and parsley. Spoon in half the onion and then the cod. Repeat. Sprinkle the top layer with the grated cheese and bread crumbs and any remaining ground pepper.
5. Bake uncovered for 35 to 40 minutes or until brown on top. Scatter the leftover parsley over the top and serve.

© 2011, Kathy Hunt.