Published in Ed Hitzel’s Restaurant Magazine Fall 2007
Spend a few hours in Lambertville, New Jersey and you may feel as though you have slipped away to a vibrant, New England coastal town. Nestled on the east bank of the Delaware across from New Hope, Pennsylvania, this18th century river community abounds with historic, Federal-style buildings, well-stocked antique and art shops, outstanding seafood and endless waterfront views.
Settled in 1732 by inn and ferry owner Emanuel Coryell, the village was originally called Coryell’s Ferry and encompassed both sides of the river. In deference to Captain John Lambert, who built a stone tavern and inn known as the Lambertville House at 32 Bridge Street, the New Jersey settlement adopted the name Lambertville in 1810. That same year a bridge connecting New Jersey to Pennsylvania was erected over the Delaware, allowing faster, safe passage between the states. Twenty years later construction of the Delaware and Raritan Canal would commence and forever change life for the region.
The inauguration of the canal in 1834 and the Belvidere-Delaware Railroad, running adjacent to the canal and through the town, in 1854 caused industrial and financial booms. Mills engaged in making rubber, locomotive products and wagon wheels sprung up all over Lambertville. The mills’ success and resultant affluence spurred the erection of stately homes, mansions, and public buildings that have retained their majesty well into the 21st century.
While the mills may have closed and the railroad tracks overgrown, Lambertville has held onto much of its 19th century prosperity and charm. Re-inventing itself as “the Antique Capital of New Jersey,” the picturesque town now draws in vacationers as well as avid antique collectors. Wander the tree-lined streets and you will encounter countless stores devoted to paintings, porcelains, glassware, furniture, rare books and architectural iron work from the 17th through the 20th century.
One such purveyor is James Curran Antiques and Restoration (202 N. Union Street), which specializes in 17th to 20th century English furniture. Curran makes several trips to Europe each year to hand-select furnishings from English estate sales and auction houses.
Down the street from James Curran, Broadmoor Antiques (6 N. Union) and Lovrinic Antiques (15 N. Union) carry fine furniture and decorative arts. David and Karen Dutch Antiques (22 Bridge), Coryell Street Antiques (51 Coryell), and Kline’s Court Antiques (11 Kline’s Court) are among the multitude of dealers, all within easy walking distance of one another.
Located 1 ½ miles south of downtown Lambertville, the Golden Nugget Antique Flea Market (1850 River Road; 609-397-0811) is home to more than 60 indoor and 200 outdoor antique vendors. In existence since 1962 the Golden Nugget is open on Wednesdays, Saturdays and Sundays from 6 AM to 4 PM year-round.
In addition to its thriving antiques trade Lambertville supports a vibrant arts community that celebrates the creativity of local and international artists alike. The Howard Mann Art Center at the intersection of N. Main and Coryell showcases the works of 100 renowned artists, including Picasso and Dali. Located in the town’s old 5 and Dime on N. Union Street, A Mano Gallery (215-862-5122) dedicates itself to contemporary American crafts.
In a restored hosiery mill at 333 N. Main Street, Rago Arts and Auction Center (609-397-9374) focuses on 20th century decorative arts. David Rago, Suzanne Perrault and John Sollo, all art experts at the Center, not only have written books in their fields but also lend their expertise to the PBS series “Antiques Roadshow.” Not limited to the visual arts, Lambertville has a non-profit, professional ballet company, the Roxey Ballet (243 N. Union Street; 609-397-7616), which runs workshops, master classes, lecture demonstrations and performances throughout the year. Its Riverside Symphonia performs yearly concerts at the Church of St. John the Evangelist (44 Bridge Street) while the Downtown Performing Arts Center on South Union hosts public classes and shows.
Unsurprising for a town of its age, Lambertville teems with historical sites. In the small cemetery next to the First Presbyterian Church (31 North Union) lies the grave of one of George Washington’s pallbearers, Revolutionary War Lieutenant George Coryell. Revolutionary War spy Sam Holcombe also rests here.
James Wilson Marshall, a leader in the 1849 California gold rush, called the yellow-painted brick, 1816 house at 62 Bridge Street his childhood home. The Marshall House Museum (609-397-0770) concerns itself with local lore as well as furnishings and quilts from the 1830’s. The Lambertville Historical Society makes its headquarters there and operates the museum on Saturdays and Sundays from April through October. It gives guided walking tours on the first Sunday of each month.
The 19th century train station, Lambertville Station (11 Bridge Street), now welcomes travelers of the culinary kind. Converted into a restaurant featuring American cuisine, the 1867 stone station evokes the past through its elegant etched glass, brass light fixtures and polished oak woodwork. Along with providing views of the canal and railroad, it delivers a unique take on such timeless fare as Chesapeake Bay lump crab cakes, pan-seared Ahi tuna, Black Angus meatloaf and rosemary-Dijon mustard encrusted rack of lamb. Open 365 days per year, the Lambertville Station serves a Sunday, champagne brunch in its Riverside Ballroom from 10 AM to 3 PM. Call 609-397-8300 for reservations.
At Hamilton’s Grill Room (8 Coryell Street; 609-397-4343) you can dine on delicious contemporary Mediterranean cuisine indoors or alfresco. Situated across the courtyard from The Boat House cocktail bar, this BYOB wows gourmands with such dishes as slate-grilled bronzino with black bean sauce, grilled tuna with avocado puree, roasted pork chops with apple-cornbread stuffing and grilled seasonal vegetables with couscous. The menu changes seasonally and concentrates not only on fresh seafood but also on meat and game entrees.
For a quick bite, check out Ennis’ Market (5 N. Union), which has a deli as well as pastries, ice cream, coffee and cold drinks. The Lambertville Trading Company (43 Bridge Street) boasts of a full coffee bar along with pastries, muffins, cookies and gifts. Buck’s Ice Cream and Espresso (25 Bridge) likewise sells coffee, dessert, bagels and ice cream.
At Baker’s Treat (9B Church Street) you can splurge on a gourmet cake or other sweet and feel good about your indulgence as the proceeds benefit women in addiction recovery programs. Baker’s Treat also supplies hands-on training and employment to recovering women.
The area’s only microbrewery, River Horse Brewery (80 Lambert Lane; 609-397-7776), opens its doors for tours and sampling from noon to five seven days per week. River Horse’s products, including Hop Hazard Pale Ale and Belgian Frostbite Winter Ale, are available throughout the Mid Atlantic, in parts of New England and in beer-of-the-month clubs.
After all this noshing a brisk walk, hike, or bike, canoe, or kayak ride may be in order. Pedestrians and bikers can start their journeys on the Delaware-Raritan Canal Park path right behind the Lambertville Station on Bridge Street. The 30-mile, primarily crushed gravel trail stretches from Frenchtown to Trenton. Parking and another access point can be found on Route 29, just north of Lambertville, at the Holcombe-Jimison Farmstead Museum.
If water sports sound more appealing, Mountain River Outfitters (287 S. Main; 609-397-3366) rents canoes and kayaks and gives seven-mile, guided river tours starting from Bulls Island Recreation Area in nearby Stockton. Positioned on the canal’s bike path, the store additionally rents bicycles and has gear and accessories for sale.
Lambertville awards overnight visitors with an assortment of noteworthy lodgings. Listed on the National Registry of Historic Places, the Lambertville House (32 Bridge Street; 888-867-8859) features 26 guestrooms with gas fireplaces, private balconies, and free Internet access. The Inn at Lambertville Station (11 Bridge Street; 609-397-4400) offers 45 antique-filled rooms overlooking the Delaware, complimentary breakfast and Internet service.
Known locally as the Massey Mansion, the York Street House Bed and Breakfast (42 York Street; 888-398-3199) has served as a private home, boarding house and movie set. The 1909 manor house now acts as a well-appointed, six-room refuge, lavishing lodgers with free Internet, electric fireplaces, homemade cookies, tea, hot cocoa and a full breakfast in the cherry-paneled dining room. The Federal-style Bridgestreet House Bed and Breakfast (75 Bridge; 800-897-2503) pampers guests with five cozy rooms, continental breakfast and evening wine and cheese.
On the east bank of the Delaware sits a treasure-trove of historic sites, antiques stores, fine food, arts and more. Come to Lambertville and see firsthand all that this quaint river town has in store.