Published by Zester Daily on December 9, 2011
As the days grow short and dreary, I start thinking about how to put some warmth and sunshine back into my kitchen. To do this, I invariably turn to summery Greek foods. Hand me a plump, stuffed grape leaf or steaming bowl of tart avgolemono soup and suddenly I’m transported to that country’s gorgeous, sun-drenched shores. Aiding me in this escape is the cookbook “Kokkari: Contemporary Greek Flavors” (Chronicle Books, 2011). Written by San Francisco chef Erik Cosselmon and journalist Janet Fletcher, “Kokkari” offers a fresh, accessible approach to Greek cooking, providing me with inspiration for and liberation from those bleak winter months.
Based upon the seasonal cuisine of the much-praised, San Francisco restaurant of the same name, “Kokkari” begins by exploring and describing the quintessential Greek ingredients. Fresh herbs such as oregano, mint and flat-leaf parsley, and greens such as wild dandelions, mustard and nettles all receive their due. So do the ubiquitous lemons, tomatoes, lamb and seafood.
Even the foundation of all savory, Greek dishes – olive oil – gets some well-deserved attention. In “Kokkari,” I learn that olive oil stars in creations known as lathera, literally olive oil dishes, and that these vegetarian foods frequently appear during Lent. That’s one of the many aspects of this cookbook that I adore: It educates and invigorates me about a cuisine that I had assumed I already knew.
After examining the staple Greek ingredients, Cosselmon and Fletcher move on to the meat of the book, seasonal recipes and anecdotes. With more than 90 recipes, tales and lush, color photographs, the two cover everything from appetizers to desserts. Writing in clear, concise language and with an eye for detail, they ignite readers with their passion for Greek and Mediterranean-inspired foods.
Although the book highlights such familiar favorites as taramosalata, the creamy roe spread, and the minced nut and honey pastry baklava, it likewise provides recipes for less known treats. These include the savory mezze dakos, barley rusks topped with grated tomato and manouri cheese, and briam, the olive oil-laden, Greek version of ratatouille. Creative and diverse, these dishes lend a little zip to an already bright, zesty cuisine.
Accompanying each recipe is an engaging head note. This helpful section may explain a technique, share a colorful story and/or propose a food pairing. Not sure what to make with the book’s grilled lamb chops? Not to worry. I just followed the suggestions and flip forward a few pages to Kokkari potatoes. I then partnered the lamb with that signature dish. Needless to say, these suggested sides take the stress out of meal planning and presentation.
Because “Kokkari” is derived from restaurant cooking, there is always the risk that the food won’t translate to a home kitchen. First off, I might not have access to the less commonplace ingredients such as goat or pheasant. Likewise, I may not possess the proper equipment such as a spit to roast lamb or chicken. Fortunately, Cosselmon and Fletcher adapt the recipes so that even without the pheasant or spit, I can still enjoy Yia Yia Kay’s stew as well as the sunny lemon and oregano chicken.
Enjoyment is at the forefront of “Kokkari.” The authors serve up innumerable tips to make my time in the kitchen and at the table more pleasurable. They even dedicate the final chapter to honing the basics of authentic Greek cooking. After picking up a few simple skills, such whipping up my own Greek-style yogurt or cleaning calamari, and suddenly this light-yet-lusty cuisine becomes a breeze.
With “Kokkari” by my side, I’ll undoubtedly infuse my cooking with warmth and joy for months to come. It’s the perfect pick-me-up for those gray days and cold winter nights.