Published in VegNews August 2008
Notice a faraway look in my eyes and, undoubtedly, you’ve caught me dreaming of the white-washed houses, soft, sandy beaches, and deep blue and gentle sea of the Mediterranean. When yearning for such countries as Greece, Turkey and Italy, my mind invariably drifts to this region’s fresh and vibrant cuisine. Visions of glistening, grilled eggplants, piquant, green olives, and zesty tomato-and-pepper salads cause my stomach to rumble. Thoughts of light yet luscious anise-infused cookies, cinnamon-scented couscous and soft, honeyed apricots make my pulse race. Imagining the Mediterranean not only stirs my desire for travel, it propels me to eat!
It is the delicate desserts that tempt me most. In this land the final course can be as involved as flaky and fragile phyllo dough layered and filled with syrup, grated fruits and chopped nuts or as uncomplicated as a sliver of seasonal fruit. Diners walk away from the table feeling satisfied but not overstuffed. Good thing, too. On sun-drenched days when the temperature tops 110 degrees, overindulging only makes me feel languid and lazy.
In Greece, suppers end simply, with slices of watermelon or bowls of fresh, mixed fruits. When confections are on the menu, they remain unfussy, and often fruit-based, affairs. Desserts such as baked figs, whole apples in syrup, and cherry spoon sweets, preserves served on spoons in the customary gesture of hospitality, all grace the dinner table.
Not to be outdone by its neighbor to the east, Italy boasts an array of effortless and healthful delicacies. Craving a succulent, chilled treat on a sultry summer afternoon? Follow the locals’ suit and cool off with a semi-frozen, fruity granita. For an utterly simple and delicious repast, consider strawberries soaked in balsamic vinegar. These palate-pleasers are a good source of vitamin C.
From North Africa comes a more complex offering: sweet couscous. Dotted with iron-rich dates, raisins, toasted almonds, and dried apricots, this grain-based favorite offers an assortment of sensory thrills. The sharp snap of the almonds provides a pleasant, and audible, change from the velvety softness of the steamed fruits and couscous. The gentle spiciness of cinnamon relieves the headiness of maple syrup, a non-traditional but no less delectable sweetener for this dish.
If wishing to round out the evening with a drink, I look to Turkey and its bold Türk kahvesi. Introduced by traveling dervishes in the 16th century, the strong, black, foamy coffee remains a popular way to finish a meal. When seeking a milder beverage, I reach for a steaming glass of Moroccan mint tea. Easy to prepare, the tea consists of sprigs of fresh mint, green tea leaves, hot water, and sugar. The digestive properties of mint and antioxidants in green tea make this drink a refreshing, restorative closure to any feast.
Whether hankering a wholesome sweet, I look to the Mediterranean and all its tasty treats. From frozen granitas and simmering coffees to nut-studded couscous and macerated fruits, this region hosts a bounty of light, healthful and spectacular desserts.
Greek Baked Figs
This dessert tastes wonderful using either brown or green figs, though brown are larger in size, contain fewer seeds, and are in season from May through December.
Serves 4
8 fresh, ripe figs, destemmed
1 tablespoon plus 1and one-half teaspoons of a light, fruity red wine, such as a Beaujolais
2 teaspoons of agave nectar, plus one teaspoon for serving
1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Using a pairing knife, score the top of the figs in a cross-like pattern.
2. Place the figs upright on a baking sheet and spoon the wine and the two teaspoons of agave nectar over the figs. Bake for 8 to 10 minutes, until the fruit is juicy and bubbling but not browned.
3. Remove the figs from the oven. Place two figs onto each dessert plate and drizzle the remaining agave nectar over the fruit. Serve immediately.
Nectar Poached Apricots
When poached in agave nectar, these apricots will blossom in color, fragrance and flavor. The same method can be used for poaching other stone fruits such as peaches, nectarines or plums.
Serves 4 to 6
1 cup water
¼ cup agave nectar
1 vanilla bean, sliced open lengthwise
1 pound ripe, firm apricots, halved and pitted
1. In a medium saucepan, combine water, agave nectar, and vanilla bean. Bring the ingredients to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer covered for 5 minutes.
2. Add the apricots and cover. Simmer until the apricots are just tender, about 5 minutes.
3. Remove the apricots and place them in a bowl. Turn up the heat on the saucepan and allow the poaching liquid to come to a boil. Cook until the liquid has reduced and thickened.
4. Strain the syrup and pour over the apricots. Allow to cool before serving.
Limoncello Granita
Tart yet sweet, cool yet oh-so-hot, this Italian liqueur granita serves up a host of tantalizing contradictions. If you prefer a non-alcoholic version, simply replace the limoncello with the same amount of chilled water.
Serves 6 to 8
1 ¼ cups sugar
1 cup + ¾ cup of cold water, divided
1 ¾ cups fresh lemon juice
Zest of 4 organic lemons
½ cup + two tablespoons limoncello
1. In a saucepan, combine sugar and 1 cup water. Simmer over medium or medium-low heat, stirring constantly, until the sugar dissolves and the mixture becomes syrupy.
2. Remove the pan from the burner and add the lemon zest, juice, and 3/4 cup water. Mix together, and stir in the limoncello.
3. Pour the liquid into a large, shallow baking dish. Place the pan in the freezer for a minimum of 8 hours. For the first 2 hours, remove the pan every 20 to 40 minutes and stir the contents, making sure to scrape down the sides of the dish and incorporate both the iced and still-liquid granita.
5. Once the granita is completely frozen, take a large spoon and scrape the top until a substantial portion has been collected. Place the granita in a cocktail glass or bowl and serve.
Dried Fruit and Almond Couscous
The traditional method of making couscous requires a couscoussier or stockpot paired with a strainer and involves intermittently steaming, wetting down and separating the grains, a process that takes close to an hour. I simplify things by preparing instant couscous in a saucepan. Otherwise, I would spend much of my evening hovering over a steamy pot. On hot, time-pressed nights, who wants to expend that much energy or work up that much sweat? Not me!
Serves 4 to 6
1 cup + 2 tablespoons water
1 cup couscous
1/3 cup golden raisins
1/4 cup dates, chopped
1/3 cup dried apricots, chopped
1/4 cup almonds, roughly chopped
1 tablespoon soy margarine
1/4 cup maple syrup
Cinnamon for dusting
1. In a medium saucepan boil the water. Add the couscous, raisins, dates, and apricots. Cover the saucepan and remove from heat. Let stand for 10 minutes.
2. In a small frying pan over medium heat, toast almonds until golden.
3. In a large bowl combine cooked couscous and soy margarine. Rake your fingers through the couscous, loosening the grains and incorporating the margarine with the fruit.
4. Pour in the maple syrup and gently stir. Add the toasted almonds and blend again. Dust the top with cinnamon and serve.
Turkish Coffee
In Turkey, coffee is brewed using a cevze, a small, wide-bottomed, pitcher-shaped vessel with a long handle. Although specialty coffee and cookware shops do sell cevzes or ibriks—the Greek word for the Turkish pot—a very small saucepan will do the trick.
Serves 4
1 heaping tablespoon finely ground coffee
1 cup cold water
1. In a small saucepan, combine the ground coffee and water and stir until well mixed. Place over low heat and allow the ingredients to simmer for roughly 3 minutes until the mixture starts to rise. Do not stir the ingredients.
2. Once the liquid starts to rise and foam, remove the saucepan from heat (do not allow the coffee to overflow). Let mixture rest for 10 to 20 seconds, then return the saucepan to the burner and leave on low heat until the coffee begins to rise again. Remove from heat. Repeat steps a third time.
3. After the third rising remove the saucepan from the heat and pour the coffee into two demitasse cups. As the grounds will also be present in the cup, allow them to settle before consuming.
Moroccan Mint Tea
A symbol of hospitality, Moroccan mint tea is offered throughout the day in homes, shops, and restaurants. To turn down a glass of tea would be the height of rudeness. Considering the delicious taste and the beautiful gold filigree glasses in which it is served, who would want to?
Serves 8
4 cups water
2 green or, if not available, black tea teabags
Generous handful of fresh mint, leaves, and stems
¼ cup sugar
1. In a tea kettle or medium saucepan, boil water. Place the teabags into a medium-sized teapot. Remove the boiling water from the heat and pour over the teabags.
2. Add the fresh mint and sugar to the teapot. Allow the mixture to steep for 5 minutes.
3. Stir the tea and pour into 4-ounce tea or juice glasses and serve.
Chef’s Tip
Strawberries & Balsamic
For a simple and delicious dessert, add three tablespoons of good quality Balsamic vinegar to two pints of cleaned and trimmed strawberries and let soak for an hour. Serve alone, alongside sugar cookies, or atop soy ice cream.
[sidebar]
Mediterranean Magic
The 1975 publication of How to Eat Well and Stay Well the Mediterranean Way alerted the American public to the low-fat and fruit-, vegetable-, and grain-rich diets of such countries as Greece, Spain, and Italy. Written by the late University of Minnesota physiologist Ancel Keys and his wife Margaret and based upon decades of Keys’ research into the relationship between diet and coronary disease, the book supplied hundreds of flavorful recipes. Keys also provided sound dietary advice, including the call for a diet high in fiber and low in saturated fat. By following this Mediterranean style of eating, Americans would, he concluded, drastically reduce their risk of cardiovascular disease.