Author: Kathy Hunt

Telepan – NY, NY

I usually don’t ransack my bank account in order to eat well in NY. However, on nights when I want a meal that will knock socks off, I dig out my debit card and head on over to Chef Bill Telepan’s eponymous restaurant, Telepan. Located on Manhattan’s Upper West Side and, happily, a short walk from my apartment, Telepan serves exceptional seasonal, New American cuisine in a low key but smart former townhouse. Much has been made of Telepan’s dedication to Greenmarket cooking. Granted, it’s not a new concept but it is one of which he is a master. Each dish shines with its own well-paired, fresh, seasonal ingredients. Take, for instance, my favorite Telepan appetizer — sunny-side egg with fried green tomato, cloth bound cheddar and spring onion. Just typing that description makes me crave this summery starter. Then there are the ricotta and herb ravioli with roasted tomato, gazpacho salad, and house-smoked brook trout with corn blini. All showcase seasonal ingredients. All are delicious. The gastronomical delights don’t end with hors d’oeuvres. An …

Floundering

In the name of research I went flounder fishing this week. Prior to this trip, the only fish that I had ever caught was an Allegheny River suckerfish. Since I’m working on a book about seafood, it seemed like the ideal time to hit the water and land a far more delectable fish. Found in the Atlantic Ocean, flounder is, as you probably can tell from the above photo, a flatfish. It’s related to sole, dab and plaice. Like all flatfish, it swims on its side and has eyes situated on one side of its head. Camouflaged by its coloring, flounder buries itself in the sand to hide from predators. Unfortunately, this trick doesn’t thwart commercial fishermen who catch great numbers of it with bottom trawls. As a result of this fishing practice, the flounder population has dwindled, leaving novices like me as well as skilled amateurs with meager catches. In 7 1/2 hours I caught three flounder, two of which were undersized and had to be tossed back into the ocean. I couldn’t chalk …

Care for a Mocktail?

As much as I enjoy a good cocktail, I realize that not every occasion calls for a sweet, intoxicating drink. Take, for instance, hot summer days when everyone craves more thirst-quenching beverages. Likewise, the nights when we’re all counting calories — a common activity for food journalists — and we need something kinder to our waistlines. Let’s not forget the times when we’re juggling the demands of work, playing host or serving as designated driver; we want to be refreshed, fit into the party but keep clear heads. Enter the mocktail. Perfect for quenching thirsts and staying alert yet festive enough for any celebratory event, faux cocktails can replace even the most beloved alcoholic drink. MANGO-PAPAYA SPRITZER Serves many 1/2 part mango juice 1/4 part papaya juice 1/8 part orange juice 1/8 part seltzer Fill a large pitcher halfway with mango juice. Add papaya juice, orange juice and seltzer and stir to combine. Refrigerate until ready to consume. Pour into cocktail glasses or into ice cube-filled tumblers. BANANA COLADA Adapted from Ben Reed’s The Art …

Classically Cool Cocktails

As the temperature soars to 100 degrees today, it feels far too hot to discuss, much less think about, cooking. Rather, it seems like the ideal time to talk about cold drinks. Although I’ve been swilling chilled seltzer all week, I’ll skip the fizzy, non-alcoholic beverages and instead hone in on some timeless cocktails. Thanks to a story in David Schickler’s Kissing in Manhattan that mentions this gem as well as a friend’s unwavering passion for it, I will forever remember the sidecar. Its name supposedly comes from the transportation habits of its creator, a French army officer who always traveled in a motorcycle sidecar. Nom de plume aside, the sidecar consists of a few simple ingredients — brandy, orange-flavored liqueur such as Triple Sec or Cointreau, lemon juice and ice. Shake it all together, strain it into a cocktail glass and you have a cool Parisian classic for summer. Sometimes it’s the look and not the taste of a drink that dazzles me. That’s the case with the Pink Lady. Invented before World War …

Happy Bastille Day!

In honor of Bastille Day here’s an excerpt from the article “Viva la France” published in Chester County Town and Country Living. Grab a glass of champagne and enjoy! Break out the flags and fireworks. Chill that bottle of champagne. Don’t forget to dig out your old, souvenir beret. It’s time to celebrate freedom and equality the French way! This year marks the 222nd anniversary of the storming of the infamous prison, the Bastille, and freeing of its seven prisoners. On July 14, 1789 the Bastille stood for everything that the people of Paris and France despised – a government of despotic monarchs such as King Louis XVI. Just as the signing of the Declaration of Independence did in America in 1776, the takeover of the Bastille kicked off the start of a revolution in France. It likewise went on to symbolize the birth of the Republic and a new way of governing. On my first trip to France I mistakenly thought that I would visit this famous, 14th century fortification. No such luck. The …

Feast

Every now and then I get a cookbook that I not only love but also make one of my best kitchen friends. Among the members of this exclusive bunch is Nigella Lawson’s Feast (Hyperion, 2004). Similar to her first book How to Eat, Feast never fails to chase away my cooking blues or tantalize my taste buds. Possessing the tag lines “food to celebrate life” and “a feast for every reason,” Feast presents its recipes according to events. Halloween, Easter, New Year’s and Valentine’s Day all have sections as do weddings, funerals, breakfast, meatless dinners and midnight feasts. Lawson provides a little something for practically every occasion and includes her lively wit and humor with each recipe. Thumb through my copy of Feast and you’ll notice little scraps of paper scattered throughout the book. The first appears on page 44. Like the others that follow, this faded receipt indicates an exceptional dish, in this case for pink picante shrimp. Served as both an appetizer and an entree, Lawson’s paprika- and pink peppercorn-studded shrimp garner rave …

Southeast Asian Soiree

I adore theme parties. Since I also love to travel and do it quite a bit, one of my recurrent themes is the cuisine and culture of foreign lands. What can you anticipate from one of these events? On a night of Southeast Asian delights there will be loads of fresh produce including mango, papaya, pineapple, coconut, ginger, lemongrass, mint and lotus root. You can count on an interplay between spicy and sweet with coconut milk partnering with chili peppers and ginger with pineapple. You can also expect some salt with your heat as soy and fish sauces are commonplace condiments in Southeast Asia. Since seafood and poultry are the primary animal proteins in countries such as Vietnam, Cambodia, India and Malaysia shrimp and chicken show up on the buffet table. I feature the two in steamed dumplings, fried egg rolls, curries and spicy sautes. A staple of Southeast Asian cuisine, rice also plays a prominent role on SEA night. It may accompany 12 quarts of curry chicken. Dressed with soy sauce or the hot …

The Beauty of Brioche

The past few Saturdays my morning ritual has been to throw on some clothes and hustle over to our neighborhood farmers’ market. My mission? To get there before someone else buys all of St. Peter’s Bakery’s brioche sticky buns. Thanks to their rich yet light dough, these brioche-based buns are the most divine that I’ve ever eaten. Rumored to have originated in Normandy, France in the Middle Ages, brioche is a light yeast bread or cake made from flour, butter, eggs and, of course, yeast. Its name comes from the verb broyer, meaning to break up. The breaking up refers to the dough’s need for repeated and prolonged kneading. In addition to increased kneading, brioche usually requires three, rather than just two, rising periods. In France this extra time and effort has prompted most to buy, rather than bake their own, brioche. Shops devoted to brioche, known as viennoiseries, have sprung up to serve this need. In the 19th century it became the custom to bake this dough in a deep, fluted pan. The resulting …

The Perfect Finish

Come over for dinner more than a few times and you’re bound to re-experience my white chocolate-almond cake, strawberry yogurt pie and warm chocolate puddings. The reason for the repetition is pretty straightforward — I have about a dozen good desserts in my repertoire. If you’re in a similar position, I would suggest taking a glance at Bill Yosses’s and Melissa Clark’s The Perfect Finish (W.W. Norton and Co., 2010). You may recognize Yosses as the White House’s executive pastry chef and Clark as a food columnist for the New York Times. In The Perfect Finish the two culinary pros come together to share 80 exquisite, easy-to-make sweets. These are desserts that anyone would be happy to add to her collection. Organized according to occasion, the book begins with a section on muffins, scones, breads and pastries, foods that work perfectly for breakfast or brunch. Hence the chapter’s title, “Come for Brunch.” Cookies feature prominently in the next chapter, “Pick-Me-Ups.” Along with familiar favorites such as chocolate chip cookies and brownies, I found such uncommon …

Peekytoe!

The name sounds almost too cute to be legit but peekytoe is, in fact, a type of crab found on the East Coast. Also known as rock or spider crab, this spindly legged crustacean originally was discarded by fishermen who found it in their lobster pots. They stopped pitching it out in the late 1990’s after the owner of Portland, Maine’s Browne Trading Company, Rod Mitchell, dubbed the unloved crab “peekytoe.” This new, perky moniker won over chefs and consumers, who started buying up and eating the bycatch. Peekytoe lives among rocks and in waters up to 40-feet deep. An eco-friendly seafood, it’s caught live in traps with no bycatch. After removing the crab from the trap, the fisherman will snap off one large claw. He then returns the crab to the ocean where it regenerates its missing appendage. When on land, a peekytoe crab will cover itself with algae, grass and other natural debris. This tendency has given the crustacean yet another name, the decorator crab. Adorable nom de plumes aside, peekytoe is prized …