This past December marked the four-year anniversary of almost moving to Prague, Czechia, or, as it was called then, the Czech Republic. As someone who has always wanted to live abroad, I was set for this new adventure. I’d figured out where I’d get my morning coffee, buy English-language books and learn how to understand, if not master, the Czech language. In a land where pork and potato dishes reigned, I even knew what I’d cook and eat. It wouldn’t be klobása (kielbasa), gulas (pork or beef stew) or schnitzel. Instead I’d make the country’s many versions of creamy mushroom soup.

Mushrooms everwhere

From late spring to early fall Czechs, like other Central Europeans, forage for wild mushrooms. Once collected and cleaned, the mushrooms might be breaded and fried, made into a pudding, added to scrambled eggs, sautéed or pickled. They may star in the entrée mushroom loaf, in a sandwich, as a salad or sauce or in a hearty soup. Similar to the ever-present potatoes and dumplings, mushrooms make their way into most meals.

Soup ingredients vary

During my time in Prague I ate mushroom soup nearly every day. It habitually appeared on menus and was a reliable option for the non-meat eater. Plus, every restaurant, cafe and bar had its own recipe. Sometimes the soup was enriched with cream and spices. Other times its velvety texture came from puréed mushrooms, potatoes and chicken stock. Once in a while a renegade would omit the cream and purée and feature sliced mushrooms, carrots and onions in a light, vegetable or chicken broth. Heartier renditions included barley or chunks of beef.

Depending upon the type of mushrooms used, the soup could range in flavor from mildly earthy to boldly savory. Color was influenced by species, too. White button and oyster mushrooms resulted in pale hues while porcinis and creminis yielded a dark, somewhat murky soup.

While in Prague, I not only ate but also learned how to make a proper Czech mushroom soup. Back at home, I tinkered with the recipe, as I tend to do, until I came up with a lighter version of this soup. Here the creamy texture comes not from cream or potatoes but from puréed mushrooms. It’s the perfect creamy, no-cream mushroom soup.

CREAMY MUSHROOM SOUP

You will need either an immersion or table top blender to puree the soup.
Serves 4 to 6

2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 pounds cremini mushrooms, stems removed, cleaned and sliced
8 ounces white button mushrooms, stems removed, cleaned and sliced
3 ounces shiitake mushrooms, stems removed, cleaned and sliced
1/2 teaspoon salt, plus more to taste
1 medium white onion, diced
2 cloves garlic, minced
5 cups chicken stock
1/4 teaspoon dried thyme
1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper

Heat the butter and olive oil in a medium stockpot over medium heat until the butter has melted. Add the mushrooms and salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms have softened and released most of their juices, 10 to 15 minutes.

Stir in the onion and garlic. Sauté over medium heat for 3 to 5 minutes, until the onions have begun to soften and the mushrooms have slightly browned.

Add the chicken stock, thyme and black pepper. Bring the soup to a boil and then reduce the heat to medium-low. Simmer the soup for 40 to 45 minutes, stirring occasionally. If the mixture becomes too thick or starts to stick, add more stock.

Using either an immersion or table top blender, puree the soup until smooth. (If you’re using a table top blender, you will need to do this in small batches, placing the pureed soup in a clean, warm stockpot.) Simmer the creamy soup for another five minutes. Taste and adjust the seasonings before serving.