For as long as I can remember, I’ve been a voracious reader. Fiction, non-fiction, newspapers, magazines, websites, blogs, cereal boxes . . .. Thanks to my not-so-secret addiction and a gravitation to the culinary world, I consume a lot of good — and not so good — food writing. Below are the best of what I read in 2012.
Other than having well-written, well-researched, engaging text and being great holiday gifts, there is no common theme for these selections. Nonetheless, you may notice several America-centric books as well as two with “fork” in the title. These are pure coincidences. Next week, noteworthy baking cookbooks.
Taco USA by Gustavo Arellano (Scribner, 2012)
Rest assured – this is not just about tacos. Gustavo Arellano discusses a host of Mexican imports including such beloved foods as salsa, tortillas, burritos and, yes, tacos. He includes profiles of such disparate characters as the founders of Frito-Lay, Old El Paso and Chipotle and the creator of the frozen margarita machine. As you might expect from the title and aforementioned figures, Taco USA delivers a uniquely American take on Mexican cuisine.
White Bread by Aaron Bobrow-Strain (Beacon, 2012)
Ever wonder how Americans came to love and later to disdain loaves of soft, processed, white bread? Even if you haven’t, you’ll still enjoy Aaron Bobrow-Strain’s compelling look at the history of white bread. Detailing the social, economic, political and health conditions surrounding the rise and fall of processed bread, he provides a thoughtful and appealing account of this oft maligned but still fundamental food.
American Terroir by Rowan Jacobsen (Bloomsbury, 2010)
American Terroir shares the spot with Eat the City as my favorite food read of 2012. Fascinating, informative and entertaining, Rowan Jacobsen’s book explores the relationships between soil, climate and food. Profiling such diverse American favorites as maple syrup, salmon, avocados and cheese, he shows just how complex the partnership between earth and food can be. Recipes and buying sources accompany each chapter.
The Art of Fermentation by Sandor Ellix Katz (Chelsea Green, 2012)
An invaluable resource for any serious cook, this books deserves a category of its own. Perhaps ‘outstanding reference manual for home fermenters’ for that describes The Art of Fermentation perfectly. Filled with historical, cultural, nutritional and practical information, Katz’s book is written for both novices and old hands at home fermenting. Whether you’re interested in making sauerkraut, want to cure meat, or just curious about how sodas and beer get their fizz, you’ll find this book illuminating.
A Fork in Asia’s Road by John Krich (Marshall Cavendish, 2012)
Intrepid travelers, adventuresome eaters and fans of Asian cuisine will appreciate A Fork in Asia’s Road. In 50 short essays John Krich looks at the foods and food fads of such countries as China, India, Singapore, Malaysia, Vietnam and Japan. Covering such themes as food as novelty, history, politics and science, he provides a colorful, first-hand glimpse at this region’s surprising cuisines.
Eat the City by Robin Shulman (Crown, 2012)
In this well-crafted book of culinary journalism and social history Robin Shulman looks at the past and present food producers of New York City. From rooftop beekeepers and East River fishermen to the shuttered Domino Sugar factory and Fourteenth Street Market she explores how people live and eat off the land, even when much of that land is covered by concrete. Revealing and captivating, Eat the City will charm fans of good writing, history, urban farming and, of course, NYC.
Consider the Fork by Bee Wilson (Basic Books, 2012)
Dubbed “A history of how we cook and eat,” Consider the Fork delves into the backgrounds of such fundamental tools as knives, spoons, mortars and pestles and chopsticks. Bee Wilson’s narrative also covers such basic techniques as measuring, blending, heating and chilling, showing readers how each everyday act came into being. Chocked full of interesting facts and illustrations, it’s both a charming and enlightening book.
Although I won’t provide reviews, I want to mention a few other memorable reads from 2012. These include Upton Sinclair’s seminal fictional account of the meatpacking industry, The Jungle (Doubleday, 1906) and the non-fiction The End of the Line: How Overfishing is Changing the World and What We Eat by Charles Clover (New Press, 2006), The Last Fish Tale by Mark Kurlansky (Riverhead, 2009), Empires of Food by Evan D.G. Fraser and Andrew Rimas (Arrow, 2011), The Sushi Economy by Sasha Issenberg (Gotham, 2008) and Jancis Johnson’s The Oxford Companion to Wine (Oxford University Press, 2006).