Rainy days and crisp, fall nights can only mean one thing — it’s time to break out the wassail! Derived from the Norse phrase “ves heill” or “be in good health,” wassail can be a toast to good health, the alcoholic drink with which one is toasted, or the festive event where drinking and toasting occurs. In my household it’s all about the hot, mulled drink. Yet, for my English ancestors, it was all about the apples.
During medieval times the English believed that if they toasted their animals and crops with drink, prosperity would be theirs in the upcoming year. Eventually this tradition focused specifically on apple production with British farmers dousing the roots of their oldest or most prolific apple tree with cider. Some went so far as to place cider-soaked bread in the tree limbs to ward off bad luck and encourage good crops. Others simply sang songs to the health of their trees. All imbibed in the warm, punch-like drink known as wassail.
By the 17th century wassailing had moved beyond crops. Folks left the fields and instead drank, caroled, and spread good wishes in their neighborhoods. Just think of the song “Here We Come A Wassailing” and you’ll understand the transformation that wassail underwent.
Since my caroling days ended long ago, I focus instead on the warming drink. Although wassail can be made with ale or wine, I look to the past and go with a seasonal brew of apple cider and white rum. Whole cloves, cinnamon sticks and ground ginger spice up the tart cider while an ample amount of sugar sweetens the mix.
Traditionally, this toasty beverage was placed in a large, goblet-shaped bowl and garnished with small apples. Since I lack an authentic wassail bowl, I pour my concoction into a punch bowl and dole out the fragrant libation in matching punch cups. Any leftovers I refrigerate and then gently reheat on low before serving it again from a decorative pitcher.
The following wassail recipe originally appeared in a January 2008 blog entry on community cookbooks. However, as it’s such a simple yet delectable recipe, it deserves yet another mention.
WASSAIL from Cook’s Choice (Junior Guild, 1978) and Nancy Williams
1 cup sugar
2 cups water
1 teaspoon whole cloves
1 1/2 cinnamon sticks
1 teaspoon ginger
2 cups orange juice
1/2 cup lemon juice
1 quart cider
1 cup white rum
Combine the sugar and water and boil 10 minutes. Add the cloves, cinnamon sticks and ginger. Let stand at least 1 hour. Strain. Add the orange juice, lemon juice and cider and bring to a boil. Remove from heat and add 1 cup white rum.