I usually don’t ransack my bank account in order to eat well in NY. However, on nights when I want a meal that will knock socks off, I dig out my debit card and head on over to Chef Bill Telepan’s eponymous restaurant, Telepan. Located on Manhattan’s Upper West Side and, happily, a short walk from my apartment, Telepan serves exceptional seasonal, New American cuisine in a low key but smart former townhouse.

Much has been made of Telepan’s dedication to Greenmarket cooking. Granted, it’s not a new concept but it is one of which he is a master. Each dish shines with its own well-paired, fresh, seasonal ingredients. Take, for instance, my favorite Telepan appetizer — sunny-side egg with fried green tomato, cloth bound cheddar and spring onion. Just typing that description makes me crave this summery starter. Then there are the ricotta and herb ravioli with roasted tomato, gazpacho salad, and house-smoked brook trout with corn blini. All showcase seasonal ingredients. All are delicious.

The gastronomical delights don’t end with hors d’oeuvres. An ardent seafood eater, I adore the roasted trout panzanella and wild sockeye salmon with olive oil potato gratin. The chicken with wild mushrooms, spinach and gnocchi likewise gets rave reviews as do the desserts. While I’m a sucker for the Telepan S’more – a crisp brownie topped with a toasted homemade marshmallow, generous scoop of graham cracker ice cream and square of dark chocolate – fruit fans may prefer the blueberry cheesecake sundae or peach granita parfait. If you can’t decide on one, order two or three. They’re quite lovely.

Along with great food and exemplary service, I appreciate the physical presence of the chef in his own restaurant. When I had dinner there on a recent Saturday night, Chef Telepan emerged from the kitchen in his apron and checkered pants and chatted with diners. Not once have I seen Mario Batali or Jose Garces pop out from behind the stove – or even step through the front door – and check in with the patrons of their restaurants. That I could find a high caliber chef cooking on a Saturday night in the dead of summer . . . just amazing.

And that’s how I’d describe my dining experiences at Telepan — just amazing.