Since virtually every food writer in America is talking about Thanksgiving this week, I’ve decided to jump on the bandwagon and share a bit about turkey day. As you’ll see, the history lesson is short. The recipes, however, are plentiful.
As most may know, Thanksgiving didn’t become a national holiday until President Lincoln declared it so in 1863. Even so, early 19th century Americans still gave thanks for successful harvests and other welcomed events with sumptuous meals. These celebrations featured an array of meats such as pork, venison, duck, goose, chicken and turkey. They also included sweets such as dried fruit, plum puddings, fruit pies and tarts. Missing, though, were many of the delicious side dishes that I so enjoy.
While these dinners lacked my garlic-chestnut Brussels sprouts and three cranberry conserve, they offered something that the present holiday doesn’t – a strong religious tone. This was particularly the case in New England where colonists spent their days of thanks in church rather than at the table.
By the late 19th century the religious aspect of Thanksgiving had all but disappeared, replaced by a collective obsession with food. Turkey became the mainstay of the feast. And all those wonderful sides? That’s what I’m offering today. Below are a few of my favorites. Easy to prepare and quick to cook, they’re a great addition to any dinner. Have a happy turkey day and enjoy!
FRENCH GREEN BEANS WITH SHALLOTS
Serves 4 to 8
2 pounds French green beans, washed & stems removed
1 large shallot, minced
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
chicken stock, enough to half-cover the beans
ground white pepper, optional
salt, optional
Melt the butter in a saute pan. Add the minced shallot and cook until softened. Add the beans. Pour in enough chicken stock so that the beans are half-covered. Raise the heat to high and cook until tender. Remove from heat, taste to see if salt and pepper are needed and then serve immediately.
ROASTED GARLIC-CHESTNUT BRUSSELS SPROUTS
Serves 8
I’ve shared this recipe before and I’ll share it again. It’s so good that even avid Brussels sprouts detractors will gobble up this dish.
2 pounds fresh or frozen Brussels sprouts, halved from top to bottom
2 cloves garlic, minced
½ cup roasted chestnuts, roughly chopped
2 tablespoons olive oil
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Preheat the oven to 425 degrees Fahrenheit.
Place the Brussels sprouts, garlic, olive oil, chestnuts, salt and pepper in a large baking dish. Toss the ingredients together, spread them in a single layer and bake until tender, about 25 minutes. Serve immediately.
GARLIC MASHED POTATOES
From Julia Child’s seminal “Mastering the Art of French Cooking Volume One” (Alfred A. Knopf, 2001). Note that the garlic can be omitted to make traditional mashed potatoes.
Serves 6 to 8
2 heads (about 30 cloves) of garlic
4 tablespoons butter
1 cup boiling milk
¼ teaspoon salt
pinch of pepper
2½ lbs. baking potatoes, peeled and quartered
4 tablespoons softened butter
salt and white pepper
3 to 4 tablespoons milk
Boil a pot of water and then drop in garlic cloves and allow them to boil for 2 minutes. Remove the cloves and place them in a saucepan with 4 tablespoons of butter. Cover and cook slowly for about 20 minutes until the cloves are very tender but not browned.
Blend in the flour and stir over low heat until the mixture froths but doesn’t brown, about 2 minutes. Off heat, beat in the boiling milk, ¼ teaspoon salt and pinch of pepper. Boil, stirring, for 1 minute. Puree the mixture in a food processor or blender then simmer 2 minutes more.
Meanwhile, boil the potatoes until tender. Drain and then put them through a potato ricer and place them in a Dutch Oven. Add the garlic sauce, 4 tablespoons butter, salt and white pepper and milk to the hot potatoes. Stir until well blended. Tumble the garlic mashed potatoes into a warmed vegetable dish and serve.
THREE-CRANBERRY CONSERVE
Recipe courtesy of the November 2004 Thanksgiving issue of “Food & Wine”
Makes about 3 cups
I love that you can make this recipe ahead of time and that, refrigerated, it keeps for up to 2 weeks.
1 cup cranberry juice
1 cup sugar
zest of 1 orange, removed in large strips
4 cups frozen cranberries
1 cup dried cranberries
In a medium saucepan combine the cranberry juice with the sugar and orange zest and bring to a boil, stirring until the sugar dissolves.
Add the frozen and dried cranberries and cook over moderate heat, gently crushing the fresh berries against the side of the pan until the conserve is thick and jam-like, about 10 minutes. Let cool and then discard the zest.