A few years ago I fell madly in love with a little falafel place in the East Village called Chickpea. Truthfully, it may have been the name rather than the food that drew me back again and again. I can’t help it. I absolutely adore those plump, firm, nutty legumes known as chickpeas.
An essential ingredient in Middle Eastern, Mediterranean and Indian cuisines, the chickpea has existed since around 8,000 B.C. While Indians embraced it as early as 4,500 B.C., ancient Romans wrote it off as mere peasant food. Yet, this flavorful, protein-rich gem appeared in many early Mediterranean recipes, including pasta and chickpeas.
In India chickpeas have long starred in fragrant dals and curries and as spiced snacks. When finely milled into a flour, called besan or gram flour, they have formed the batter for such fried favorites as pakoras, or fritters, and aloo bonda.
In North Africa and the Middle East chickpeas serve as the basis for such classics as hummus and falafel. They also pop up in couscous dishes and in spicy stews.
Across the sea in Spain chickpeas are known as garbanzo beans. There Spanish cooks feature them in a variety of soups. The most famous of these is cocido. While this stew does include pork, beef, potatoes, onions, and carrots, its main ingredient remains the humble chickpea.
Dried chickpeas waiting to be soaked and simmered
Although commonly sold in dried form, you can purchase canned chickpeas. Fresh chickpeas, though, are a rarity. Picked in the spring, they quickly turn from juicy and bright green to their usual dry and pale beige. You can find chickpeas, in dried and canned forms, in virtually every ethnic market and American grocery store. If you go for the dried form, you will have to soak and then simmer the chickpeas in boiling water until they regain their plumpness.
SPICED CHICKPEAS
Serves 4 to 6
Chhole, or spiced chickpeas, are a popular snack sold by Indian street vendors. In addition to eating them as is, I like to scoop the spiced chickpeas into a piece of naan, fold up the edges and eat them as a finger sandwich. They’re also great with a little basmati rice.
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 clove garlic, grated
1 teaspoon coriander seeds, toasted and ground with mortar and pestle
1 teaspoon garam masala
½ teaspoon ground cardamom
½ teaspoon turmeric
¼ teaspoon salt
1 (15 ½-ounce) can chickpeas and their juices
In a medium frying pan heat the oil. Add the grated garlic and spices and sauté for 1 minute. Pour in the chickpeas and juices and stir to combine. Simmer for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally so that the chickpeas don’t burn or stick to the pan. Taste and adjust the seasonings if necessary. Tumble into a bowl and serve warm or room temperature.