Tell people that you’re headed to Maine and more than likely you’ll hear “Oh, you going up there for the lobster? ” Repeated trips to the easternmost state have taught me that there is more to Maine than cold water crustaceans. Spend a few days in Portland, the largest city in the state, and you’ll soon see what I mean.

With a population of 64,000 Portland’s size pales in comparison to most urban centers. What it lacks in numbers, it compensates in character, history, charm and cuisine.  Such is the case at Becky’s Diner.  Located at the end of Hobson’s Wharf, Becky’s has been sustaining local fishermen, townspeople and tourists for close to 20 years.  Its wholesome food and friendly service pack the red vinyl booths and counter stools “362 1/2 days.”  Don’t miss the perfectly cooked home fries, generous amounts of fresh fruit and scrumptious grilled muffins at breakfast, my favorite meal there.

Nestled in a low brick building one block from the water in the Old Port District, Fore Street and its culinary feats have been recognized by the James Beard Foundation as well as Gourmet magazine.  No wonder.  Featuring fresh, local ingredients in such satisfying dishes as wood roasted red hake filet with wild mushrooms, butter poached lobster BLT, organic green beans in a sherry almond vinaigrette and blueberry cobbler topped with blueberry ice cream, Fore’s fare has dazzled the crowds since 1996.  And crowds there are.  Just try snagging a last-minute reservation on a weekend or, during the warmer months, weeknight.  Not a chance!

On the corner of Middle Street and Franklin Arterial, Hugo’s tells a slightly different tale.  Like Fore Street, Hugo’s has been praised for its innovative, seasonal food.  However, unlike at Fore Street, both the crowds, portions and pleasures were miniscule on the night that my husband and I dined there.

 

As serving sizes were small, our menus and server suggested ordering three items. Nonetheless, I requested two dishes:  organic tomato salad with olive oil panna cotta and aged asiago cheese; pan-seared arctic char with organic new potatoes on a bed of seaweed slaw.  In turn I received 5, skinned, yellow cherry tomatoes tumbled onto a paper-thin layer of panna cotta with several centimeter-sized cubes of cheese, a small square of arctic char, one thumb-sized potato and two forkfuls of slaw.  Good thing that I hadn’t been famished. 

Also good that I brought along my debit card.  The portions may have been petite but the price wasn’t.  My lackluster meal — sans drinks — cost $30.  My husband’s, which consisted of the recommended three but also without drinks, ran $50. 

A far better value and meal came, surprisingly, at the Portland Museum of Art’s Museum Cafe.  There we split a flavorful lentil salad studded with slivers of red peppers, diced carrots, onion and feta, a bowl of creamy yet light corn chowder and crisp, homemade ginger snaps.  The cafe likewise offered several other salads, soups, sandwiches, dinner and vegetarian entrees as well as an assortment of baked goods, all served in a spacious, art-filled dining area.     

Three and a half days in Portland.  Loads of good food but only one lobster-based dish.

Maine Lobster Roll
Serves 4
Note: Either buy cooked lobster meat or steam two 1 1/2-pound lobsters and remove the meat.

2 cups cooked lobster meat, cut into small chunks
1 teaspoon lemon juice
2 scallions, minced
¼ cup celery, minced
½ – ¾ cup mayonnaise
salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
4 hot dog rolls
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

Toss the lobster with the lemon juice in a bowl.  Add ½ cup of mayonnaise, scallions and celery and stir to combine, adding the remaining mayonnaise if necessary.  The salad should be moist but the flavor should not be overwhelmed by mayo.  Season with salt and pepper to taste.  Refrigerate until ready to use.

Heat a large frying pan over medium heat.  Spread the softened butter on the rolls and place the rolls, butter-side down, in the pan.  Cook, turning once, until the rolls are golden brown.  Remove from the pan, open the rolls and spoon in the lobster salad.  Serve immediately.