After several days spent in a foreign city I am always itching to sneak out and explore the countryside. There, I believe, is where the “real” heart of a land exists. Don’t get me wrong. I love urban life but with McDonald’s everywhere from Marrakech to Bucharest and streets teeming with tourists who look and sound a lot like me, I feel as though most cities have become too globalized to provide a true glimpse at a country.

With 24,000 islands in the Stockholm archipelago I don’t have to go far for a different taste of Sweden.  I just hop a ferry and in less than an hour or two I could be on “the beach,” in the forest or wandering through the wooded, pedestrian-only island of Grinda.

Rimmed by sandy beaches as well as rocky shorelines, Grinda provides a range of pursuits.  Hike the rolling hills, kayak on the sea, camp out or just sit at the sole waterfront cafe and drink beer, read a book, or catch up with old friends. A sucker for animals, I get a kick out of watching the local wildlife  — fat, free-range, red-feathered chickens bobbing and pecking at the ground, sheep dozing in the grassy fields, drunk daytrippers urinating off the docks.

A note to anyone contemplating a trip to Grinda:  The island has two unmarked docks in the south and north.  The ferry from Stockholm arrives at the north location.  The ferry to the capital departs from the south.  We didn’t realize this until missing the last ferry back.  Frantically, we tried our hands at semaphore.  Then we called for a water taxi.  As that would have cost between $500 and $600 . . ..

Closer to Stockholm is the island of Lovon, home to the royal family and their 17th century, UNESCO World Heritage palace, Drottningholm.  Wandering through the well-manicured gardens, lounging on the lawns, and touring the 18th century Court Theatre and Chinese Pavilion all have their pleasures.  However, I prefer to take the speedy, 3-hour ferry from Nynashamn to the Swedish municipality of Gotland.

Located 56 miles off the mainland, this ancient Viking settlement, with its few forest-lined roads, small fishing villages, and close to 100 medieval churches, charms me to no end.  Its capital, Visby, was once a Stone Age sacrificial site.  Today the fortified town is a UNESCO World Heritage site and, with 22,000 residents, the most populated area in Gotland.      

Off the coast of northern Gotland lies the flat, limestone island of Faro.  With a population of less than 600, Faro lacks medical and postal services, law enforcement and banks.  What it does possess are limestone stacks, fishing shacks and the resting place of Ingmar Bergman.  The writer-director lived, filmed several of his movies, and died here.  He is buried in a simple grave behind the island’s church.