I admit it – I own a lot of cookbooks.  Some of my favorites come not from renowned chefs or big publishing houses but from community fundraising committees.  Soft- covered, spiral bound, and with minimal art work, community cookbooks showcase the talent and ingenuity of home cooks while raising money for local churches, hospitals, parks and clubs.       

Since the recipes are donated by a specific community, i.e. the members of the Junior Guild or Holy Trinity Orthodox Church, the offerings are invariably vast and varied.  Some, such as the three-ingredient beer bread, are simple and tasty.  Others, such as the 10-egg “English style cheese strata,” fall into the ‘creative cooking’ category.  A few, such as the apple sauce-cream cheese-lemon jello-Miracle Whip salad, are plain, old gastronomic nightmares.     

Close to half of these books I inherited from my mother.  Although she didn’t particularly enjoy cooking, she did believe in supporting my hometown.  “No Fault Cooking” from the Liberty Mutual Club, “Northminster U.P. Church Cook Book,” “Favorite Recipes of Pennsylvania” courtesy of the Women’s Missionary Society, and “Cook’s Choice” from the Junior Guild of Jameson Memorial Hospital all found their way into her kitchen.

My mother may not have used the books often but, when she did, she filled the margins with ratings – a red “X” for unsuccessful recipes, a “good+” for, obviously, those she found worth making again.  My favorite, the hardbound “Cook’s Choice,” is loaded with these notations.  My first grade teacher Elma Alford’s chicken casserole warranted a “good+.”  Yet, I can’t remember ever eating this well-reviewed meal. 

While Carolyn Farone’s meat loaf only received a “good” rating, I consumed this combination of ground beef, chopped onions and peppers, grated cheese, egg and cracker crumbs on countless occasions.  As for the damning red “X” next to “party chicken,” I must have blocked out all memories of it.  Chicken breasts wrapped in bacon and topped with dried beef, cream of mushroom soup, and sour cream didn’t do much for my mother or me, it seems.     

Along with relishing the personal aspects of “Cook’s Choice,” I also love many of the recipes.  The 26-page chapter on appetizers and beverages is packed with great party foods.  From the number of outstanding cocktails listed here, I have no doubt that the ladies of the 1978 Junior Guild knew how to have a good time. Thanks to them, I do, too.  Nancy William’s wassail, Bobbie Forsey’s Swedish glogg, and Mary Clarke’s wholesome, non-alcoholic witches’ brew have kicked off many festive nights. 

What I like best, though, is the book’s simplicity.   Most recipes contain only a few steps.  Dice, mix, pour and bake.  Coat, season and fry.  Boil, simmer and serve.  That covers all the techniques that I’ll need to create these dishes. 

Likewise, the ingredient lists are kept simple.  What I don’t have on hand, I can easily acquire.  No traipsing through four supermarkets or transporting goods across the George Washington Bridge to make shrimp Arnaud or Croatian fish stew.  Makes sense.  If the recipe writers hadn’t found the ingredients at New Castle’s local markets, they wouldn’t have made such meals as chicken paprikash or baked cheese fondue.        

While my mother’s books from the ‘70s and ‘80s are filled with nostalgia and retro appeal, the ones that I have purchased smack of today’s eating trends.  Gone are the coconut and Cool Whip-laced Jell-O salads, chow meins, angel fluff pies, and upside-down cakes.  In their place are steps for making curried artichoke salads, vegetarian entrees, tarts, and tortes.  However different this may be from the days of “surprise meatballs,” these books still contain good foods prepared and presented for good causes. 

Wassail from Cook’s Choice (Junior Guild, 1978) and Nancy Williams

Yields 2 1/2 quarts

“Keep warm with this at the football games — really keeps you toasty warm from the inside out!”

1 cup sugar
2 cups water
1 teaspoon whole cloves
1 1/2 cinnamon sticks
1 teaspoon ginger
2 cups orange juice
1/2 cup lemon juice
1 quart cider
1 cup white rum

Combine the sugar and water and boil 10 minutes.  Add the cloves, cinnamon sticks and ginger.  Let stand at least 1 hour.  Strain.  Add the orange juice, lemon juice and cider and bring to a boil.  Remove from heat and add 1 cup white rum.  Easy.  Can do ahead