Until recently, whenever someone mentioned Morocco, three images would spring to mind: Tall, lanky camels plodding across the scorching Sahara; dusty, crowded souks teeming with loud, aggressive peddlers; palm tree-lined oases springing up in an otherwise barren land. Beige would be the predominant color of the landscape. Sizzling would be the climate year-round.
Shaped by films and books such as “Casablanca” and The Sheltering Sky, my notions of the North African country were completely blown by a trip to the Moroccan port of Essaouira.
Situated on the Atlantic Coast, roughly five hours south of Casablanca by car, Essaouira resembled a Mediterranean resort town. Along with its whitewashed, blue shuttered buildings and expansive, windswept beach the city possessed a relaxed, uncomplicated atmosphere.
On Place Prince Moulay el Hassan locals and tourists alike lounged at outdoor cafes, sipped hot mint tea and tossed scraps to the town’s stray dogs and cats. At the beach football was perpetually played and onlookers were encouraged to join the games. Those who preferred to observe sat beneath beach umbrellas and watched windsurfers glide along the coastline. Host of national and international windsurfing contests, Essaouira promotes itself as “Wind City, Afrika.”
Unlike the rest of Morocco, life in this 18th century town moved at a slower pace. I spent many hours wandering through the souks, pausing to sniff jars of aromatic spices or admire brightly painted tea glasses. Not once did I feel pushed into purchasing an unwanted item. Bartering did take place in the markets but in an amiable way.
By contrast, in Marrakech’s covered Rue Souk Smarine I was shoved along by throngs of shoppers bent on finding the best deal on kilims and terra cotta tagines. In the rare instance that I could stop in front of a stall, I was hectored by vendors who barked out bargains and insisted that I not only view but also buy their wares.
Hard sell doesn’t work with me so I left Marrakech empty-handed. However, by the end of my stay in Essaouira my rental car’s trunk was filled with thuya woodcrafts, pottery and spices, all acquired at the laidback marketplace.
Also filled in Essaouira was my stomach. Once one of the largest sardine ports in the country, the town still catered to a fish-loving crowd. Grilled fish cafes lined the road just outside the port area and served freshly caught sardines and other fish. Diners ate at their delectable meals at wooden benches and tables facing the port and sea.
When I grew tired of fish, I sampled other cuisines. La Licorne, located along the woodworkers’ souk on Rue de la Skala, offered high end, traditional Moroccan and French cuisines. When I developed a hankering for pasta, I had at least three different Italian restaurants from which to choose.
Lest I forget that I was in Africa and not the Mediterranean, Essaouira afforded me the chance to ride a camel on the dunes of La Maison du Chameau. The impassive animal took me past herds of goats climbing scrubby, fruit-bearing argan trees and across the increasingly hot and desolate countryside. Camel rides could also be arranged on the beach or through the concierge at one of the town’s many hotels.
Although Essaouira had many Western-style hotels, including the upscale Sofitel chain, I ended up staying in riads, traditional Moroccan houses built around gardens or courtyards. Facing the Atlantic and town’s ramparts, the Dar Al Bahar provided spectacular ocean views. The French-run Dar Adul overlooked the Skala de la Ville, the sea bastion on the northern cliffs, and afforded visitors a quiet night’s sleep. Both riads served complimentary breakfasts of flat breads, honeycombed pancakes known as beghrirs, preserves, orange juice, coffee and tea.
Where to Stay:
Dar Adul www.daradul.com 63 Rue Touahen 061 24 52 41
Dar Al Bahar www.daralbahar.com 1 Rue Touahen 044 47 68 21
Sofitel Thalassa Mogador Boulevard Mohammed V 044 46 90 00
Where to Eat:
La Licorne 26 Rue Scala – Traditional French Moroccan cuisine
Dar Baba 2 Rue de Marrakech – Inexpensive Italian
Chalet de la Plage Boulevard Mohammed V – Seafood with a sea view