Published by Pittsburgh Tribune Review on June 12, 2010

When you’re hungry and in a rush, reach for your curvy, tropical friend, the banana. This potassium- and Vitamin C-rich gem has filled the bellies of the ravenous since ancient times. No wonder. Whether you pluck it off a tree or buy it from a fruit stand, grocery store or coffee shop, the ubiquitous banana is easy to find, transport and eat.

North America’s favorite fruit hails from Southeast Asia. Although Alexander the Great first encountered the long-leaved plant in 4th century BC India, it took the efforts of 15th century Portuguese explorers to carry it to Europe and, specifically, the Canary Islands. From the Canaries a 16th century Spanish missionary transported banana roots to the Americas where the palm tree-like perennial quickly spread throughout the tropical regions.

While many varieties exist, there are two main types of bananas – eating and cooking. The familiar yellow Cavendish, its smaller version the apple or lady’s finger and the aromatic red banana are known as eating bananas. The longer, thicker plantain falls into the category of cooking for it is unpalatable when raw.

Whether for eating or cooking all are picked green and ripen during shipment. They are the one fruit that tastes better when ripened off the bush.

When shopping for eating bananas, look for plump, evenly colored ones with slightly green tips. Speckled, yellow peels will indicate ripeness and the ideal time for consumption. At this point bananas possess the least amount of starch and highest amount of sugar and, as a result, will be at their sweetest.

To hasten the ripening process, place the bananas in a paper bag with a ripe piece of fruit. Likewise, to speed the maturation of green tomatoes and avocado, put them in a container with bananas. The ethylene given off by bananas accelerates the mellowing of other produce.

Once this fruit has hit its prime, it can be used in a wealth of breakfast entrees and desserts. Banana bread, muffins, crepes and pancakes kick off the day while banana cream pies, puddings, ice cream sandwiches and splits bring a luscious ending to dinner.

If you crave bit of a spectacle with dessert, whip together the flamboyant New Orleans classic Bananas Foster. For this dish sauté sliced bananas in a mixture of brown sugar, cinnamon, unsalted butter and banana liqueur before setting them aflame in dark rum. Once the fire dies out, spoon the caramelized fruit and rich, amber sauce over ice cream.

Along with the aforementioned butter, brown sugar, and rum, bananas go well with blueberries, chocolate, coconut, ginger, macadamia nuts, green mangoes, oranges and walnuts. A versatile food, they can be baked, broiled, caramelized, deep fried, grilled, poached and sautéed.

In terms of versatility plantains go a step further. Mild and somewhat squash-like in flavor and a bit firmer than eating bananas, they appear in both sweet and savory dishes.
In the latter instance they are used much as a potato would be. You can serve them baked, boiled, grilled, mashed, pureed, pan fried, deep fried and sautéed.

A staple of Latin American, African and West Indian cuisines, plantains are starchier and less sugary than bananas. Only when fully ripe do they possess a slightly sweet taste.
Unlike bananas, plantains are usually cooked when green. However, they can be used at any point from green to brown to black.
When buying, remember to choose plump plantains. Avoid any that appear cracked or shriveled or feel overly soft. As for skin color, any shade from green to black will do.

Although most often seen in fried form, green plantains can be incorporated into soups and stews, added to omelets or sliced, baked and offered as chips. They pair well with bacon, chili peppers, curry, garlic, lime, pork, salsa and oranges. Allspice, cinnamon, cloves, coconut, ice cream, rum and sugar compliment black, completely ripened ones.

For a truly memorable plantain dish try a jibarito. A Puerto Rican specialty from Chicago, the éclair-sized jibarito consists of pieces of steak, slices of tomato, lettuce, garlic and mayonnaise layered between two flattened, fried green plantains.
Versions of this crisp, delectable sandwich can now be found in Puerto Rican restaurants throughout the Midwest and East Coast. Along with the traditional steak filling these jibaritos feature chicken, ham or vegetables and include American or Swiss cheese.

Banana Ice Cream Sandwiches with Toffee Sauce
Serves 6
Inspired by a dessert at Manhattan’s The Red Cat, these ice cream sandwiches will take a little time to assemble. However, the results are definitely worth the effort. If you’re in a rush, use store-bought banana ice cream and replace the toffee sauce with chocolate syrup.

For the ice cream:
1 ½ cups whole milk
1 ½ cups heavy cream
¾ cup sugar
8 egg yolks, beaten
1 ½ ripe bananas, mashed

For the sandwich:
2 ripe bananas, mashed
2 eggs, beaten
2/3 cup sugar
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon baking soda
½ cup blanched almonds, ground in a food processor with 1 teaspoon sugar (you should have roughly ¾ cups of ground almonds when finished)
1 1/3 cup all-purpose flour

For the sauce:
1 2/3 cup sugar
½ cup unsalted butter
½ cup whole milk
¼ teaspoon vanilla

For the ice cream:
Place the milk, cream and sugar in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil. Remove from heat and slowly add half of the milk mixture to the eggs, whisking constantly. Once the hot liquid has been incorporated, pour the egg-milk mixture into the saucepan and return to the stove. Whisk the ingredients over medium heat until they begin to thicken, about 5 minutes. Pour through a fine mesh strainer and into a bowl and set in the refrigerator to cool. Once cooled, place in a blender with the 1 ½ ripe bananas and blend. Freeze in an ice cream maker and then follow the manufacturer’s instructions for making ice cream.

For the sandwich:
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit. Grease an 8 1/4” x 4 1/4” loaf pan.

In small bowl mix together the eggs, banana and sugar. In a separate bowl stir together the salt, baking soda, ground almonds and flour and then make a well in the center of the mixture. Pour the liquid ingredients into the well and stir to combine. Spoon the batter into the greased loaf pan. Bake for 50 to 60 minutes, until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Cool in the pan for 10 minutes before removing and placing on wire rack to cool completely. When cool, cut the loaf into 12 slices.

For the sauce:
In a medium saucepan melt the butter and sugar, stirring to combine. Bring the mixture to a boil, add the milk and vanilla and cook until thickened, approximately 5 minutes. Cool slightly.

To assemble:
Place once slice of banana loaf onto a dessert plate and place one to two scoops of ice cream onto to it. Cover with another slice of banana loaf and press down to flatten slightly. Drizzle toffee sauce over the top and around the sides of the ice cream sandwich. Repeat to make the remaining 5 sandwiches. Serve immediately.

Grilled Plantains with Cinnamon-Brown Sugar Glaze
Serves 4

2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 teaspoon cinnamon
¼ cup light brown sugar
2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons dark rum
4 ripe plantains, peeled and sliced lengthwise on a bias
3 tablespoons canola oil

Preheat the grill on high.

In a small saucepan melt the butter, cinnamon and brown sugar, stirring to combine. Reduce the heat to low, add the rum and cook for 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside.

Brush the plantains with canola oil. Place on the grill and grill until golden, about 4 minutes on each side. Brush with the cinnamon-brown sugar glaze during the last 1 to 2 minutes, adding more glaze before serving. Serve immediately with an optional scoop of banana or vanilla ice cream.

Jibarito
Serves 2

1 green plantain, peeled and sliced lengthwise into 4 pieces
canola oil, enough to fill 6” of a deep, heavy skillet
2 tablespoons olive oil
½ yellow onion, sliced
dash of salt
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper
8 ounces skirt steak, cut into strips
2 tablespoons mayonnaise
1 tomato, sliced
4 lettuce leaves
ground black pepper, to taste

Fill a deep, heavy skillet with six inches of canola oil and heat over medium high. Using heat-proof tongs, place the plantain pieces in the oil and fry them. Remove, blot them on a paper towel and then fry again. Place them on paper towels on top of a cutting board. Place another cutting board over them and, pressing down, flatten the plantains.

Heat the two tablespoons of olive oil in a frying pan. Add the onions and dash of salt and sauté until softened. Add the garlic, cayenne pepper and skirt steak and fry until steak is cooked through.

Assemble the jibaritos by placing 2 tablespoons of mayonnaise on 2 plantains slices, followed by equal amounts of steak, sautéed onions and garlic, tomatoes and lettuce. Sprinkle ground black pepper over top and place the remaining 2 plantains slices over the filling. Serve hot.

© 2010, Kathy Hunt. Distributed by Tribune Media Services Inc.