Kitchen Kat

Many thought that Sean and I had lost our minds when we announced that we’d be spending much of August in India.  Scorching heat.  Monsoons.  Not to mention all the wonderful diseases, such as Dengue fever, malaria, typhoid and polio, that we could contract.  However, by day four we’re both alive, well and, beyond being drenched in sweat, dry each day.

Our sultry journey began in New Delhi, the bustling capital of this exotic land.   On our first morning here we strolled over to Lodi Gardens where women in colorful saris and white running shoes jogged alongside men in shorts and T-shirts.  As with all of Delhi, Lodi Gardens was dotted with ruins from the region’s Mughal period.  Lodi was beautiful but, at 8 a.m., already quite a warm place to be — 90 degrees and climbing.

Following in the footsteps of locals and tourists alike, we rented not a car but a car and driver to take us around the city.  Smart move.   As in Turkey and Morocco, where Sean drove and I nervously navigated, the traffic is constant and chaotic. Unlike in the aforementioned countries, it’s comprised not only of cars and trucks but overloaded rickshaws, motorbikes, cyclists, pedestrians, 3-wheeled tuk tuks and the rare donkey, horse and elephant.

Our driver, Sher-Singh, carried us in air conditioned comfort to Old Delhi and the country’s largest mosque, Jama Masjid, where the courtyard alone holds 25,000 devotees.  Tucked at the end of a lane teeming with people and traffic, the mosque was constructed under the ruler Shah Jahan.  It is one of many mosques serving the large Muslim population in Northern India.

Along with mosques we also had the privilege of seeing Jain, Sikh and Hindu temples and, oddly enough, a huge Methodist church.  One of the more unusual religious centers was the Akshar Dham Temple.  Over 15,000 artisans and volunteers worked on this elaborate Hindu complex.  Opened in 2005, Akshar Dham featured “boat” tours on the man-made canals around the temple, movies and an extensive food court.

Tags: Travel Tales by Kitchen Kat
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Ah, beignets and funnel cakes.  I can’t think of two more delectable, fried, sugar-coated snacks.  After years of gorging on beignets each time that I visit New Orleans and of living next to Apple Frankie, the undisputed “funnel cake king,” I consider myself somewhat of an expert on the two.  So, with a nod to the aforementioned A. Frankie, I shall attempt to determine, once and for all, which is truly the best greasy sweet. 

Although I flew back from New Orleans over a month ago, beignets linger on my palate and mind.  Blanketed with powdered sugar, these pillows of dough are served hot and as a trio at the Crescent City landmark Cafe du Monde.  Light and oh-so sweet, they are a heavenly treat.  To balance out the avalanche of sugar hitting my bloodstream and clothes, I pair beignets with a decaf, chicory-laced cafe au lait and plenty of napkins.  

While I associate beignets with New Orleans, they actually originated in France.  Made from the delicate, spongy pâte à choux, these airy, square pastries are found throughout the country.  They likewise pop up in such French-influenced regions as Quebec and, of course, New Orleans. 

Because of their lightness and semblance to a doughnut, I may eat beignets for breakfast or as a late night bite.  I would not do this, though, with a funnel cake.  Heartier and bigger than a beignet, this golden latticework of deep-fried batter seems better suited for dessert, if not for a decadent dinner. 

*Note that the dough must be prepared in advance and refrigerated overnight.  If you don’t wish to make the beignets right away, the dough will keep for 1 week in the refrigerator.

1 1/2 cup warm water
1 package active dry yeast
1/2 cup sugar
1 teaspoon salt
2 large eggs
1 cup undiluted canned evaporated milk
7 cups flour
1/4 vegetable shortening
oil for deep frying
confectioner’s sugar

Put the warm water in a large bowl, add the dry yeast and stir until thoroughly dissolved.  Add the sugar, salt, eggs and evaporated milk.  Slowly stir in 4 cups of flour.  Beat with a wooden spoon until smooth and well combined.  Beat in the shortening then add the remaining flour, about 1/3 cup at a time.  Stir until it becomes too stiff to do so and then work the dough with your fingers.  Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.

On a clean, floured surface roll out the dough to a thickness of 1/8-inch.  Using a sharp knife, cut the dough into rectangles measuring 2 1/2 inches by 3 1/2 inches.

Preheat the oven to 200 degrees Fahrenheit.  Preheat the oil in a deep fryer to 360 degrees Fahreheit. 

Fry 3 or 4 beignets at a time until they are puffed and golden brown on both sides, about 2 to 3 minutes per batch.  Using tongs, turn them over once or twice so that they are evenly browned.  Drain each batch on a wire cooling rack.  Place them on a platter covered with paper towels and put the platter in the oven to keep warm.  Repeat with the remaining beignets.

Liberally cover the beignets with powdered sugar and serve hot.   Yum! 

Tags: Food Musings, Travel Tales by Kitchen Kat
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Returning to a holiday spot does have its perks.  Since Sean and I had hit most of the major sites — Newgrange, Cliffs of Moher, Dingle Peninsula, Ring of Kerry, Blarney Castle and Belfast, Dunluce Castle and the Giant’s Causeway in Northern Ireland — previously, we opted to explore the less visited but no less beautiful attractions of the Republic’s west coast.  Smart move!  This region has it all — majestic mountain ranges, crystal clear lakes, loads of grazing sheep, quaint villages, good restaurants and a wealth of historic sites.

Portumna Castle – Built in the 16th century, Portumna Castle was left in ruins after an 1826 fire.  Restoration work began 30 years ago and continues to this day.  Beautiful setting.  Bad camera karma.  Here my latest Nikon, the D200, breathed its last breath.  What is it about Ireland and my cameras?

Galway — Possessing few historic sites, this medieval, coastal, Gaelic-speaking city may not be the most obvious destination.  However, fresh seafood, excellent pubs and a vibrant downtown scene make Galway a perfect stopping point.  You can also catch a ferry to the Aran Islands from here.

Aughnanure Castle — Built along the Drimneen River and supported by natural archways, much of this 13th century castle tumbled into the water centuries ago.   The human inhabitants may be long gone but hundreds of bats now reside in the tower house roof.  Impressive tower.  Cool atmosphere.

Kylemore Abbey — This 19th century castle sits beside a lake at the base of Duchruach Hill.  Quite a dramatic setting for what is now a Benedictine girls’ boarding school.  For 13 Euros (about $17) you can visit three rooms in Kylemore Abbey or you can just snap photos from outside for free.

The Aran Islands a/k/a Inishmore, Inishmaan and Inisheer — You’ve read the story.  You’ve seen the pictures.  For more information, check out the Aran Islands website.

Connemara — A vast region of land west of Galway city, Connemara is a jumble of coastlines, mountain ranges, fjords, bogs, fields and beaches.  It’s also a spectacular area to hike, photograph or stop for a picnic.

Grey Herons –Think of them as the pigeons of Ireland’s west coast; they are everywhere!  Their huge nests dot the tree tops, sometimes with as many as five per tree.  Look for them near lakes, rivers and streams and, if you are as lucky as we were, outside your hotel room.

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After renting a spiffy black Corsa, Sean and I set off for the Republic of Ireland’s west coast and the Aran Islands.   There we caught a stomach churning, 50-minute ferry to Inishmore, the largest of the three islands.  Home to those lovely Irish, wool, knitted sweaters and to such movies as “Man of Aran,” Inishmore is likewise renowned for its rugged landscape, blustery winds and rocks, rocks and more rocks.

While most tourists opt to take a tour bus, hop a ride on a horse cart or rent a bike to see the island, we decided to hike.  Little did I know that the hike would be ALL uphill.   Huff.  Puff.  Huff. Puff.  Why is it that I never can find a taxi when I need one?

Our destination was Dun Aenghus, a semi-circular, prehistoric fort perched precariously on the edge of a 90-meter cliff.  This was only one of several prehistoric sites on Inishmore but, as the others were even further away, Dun Aenghus was where we went.  Fortunately, Dun Aenghus is reputed to be the best site on the island so my laziness didn’t impinge upon our activities too much.

Along the way to Dun Aenghus we stopped to have a picnic of white cheddar cheese, buttermilk wheat scones, apples and soda on one of the many flat rocks covering the landscape.  As we ate, the wind picked up and the sky turned an ominous gray.   Miraculously, the rain never came.   That might be a first for us, Inishmore and Ireland.

Lunch finished, we trudged up the narrow, winding road, passing grazing cows and calves, sleeping baby goats, a horse and her foal, seals sunbathing in an inlet, ruins of an old church, two thatch-roofed houses, and, of course, the ever present rock walls.   We also strolled past more than a few bicyclists pushing their bikes up the hill.  Hey, at least I didn’t have to haul a bicycle — and me — across the island!

About a mile from the fort a tour bus driver stopped and asked if we’d like a lift.  Would we ever!  After over two hours of walking I was more than happy to accept that free ride.  In less than five minutes we arrived at the admissions gate and the driver set off to pick up some paying tourists.   Rats!  Here I thought that he was driving us all the way to the top of the cliff.

From the base it was a 15-minute climb up a rocky path to the summit.  There we had a breathtaking view of the island, ocean and all the poor souls struggling up to Dun Aenghus.  We also explored the three concentric, stone circles that make up the mysterious fort, mysterious because no one knows who lived there or why there were only three sides to the structure.  My guess about the latter is that part of the cliff fell away, taking the fourth side with it.  Then again, maybe not. 

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A few weeks ago Sean and I decided to revisit Ireland.  Cheap airfare and the desire to relax in friendly, familiar environs made this country the obvious vacation choice.   So, setting aside more exotic locals, we hopped a flight to Dublin on Easter Sunday and kicked off our first full-fledged holiday of 2009.

As anyone who has traveled with me can attest, no trip is complete without several nerdy and culinary activities.  In Dublin the nerdiness comes partly in the form of a pilgrimage to Ireland’s largest bookshop, Hodges Figgis on Dawson Street.  Opened in 1786, the four-story store carries over 60,000 books.  As if I need another book!  That doesn’t stop me from browsing the shelves at Hodges Figgis or at other charming, well-stocked shops such as The Winding Stair near the Haypenny Bridge or even the chain Waterstones, right across from Hodges Figgis.

The fun doesn’t end there.  Oh no.  Along with bookstores I have to check out the city’s museum offerings.  This time Sean and I revisited the National Gallery of Ireland where last year I smashed my Nikon N80, bringing an end to my film SLR days.  We said a few words in front of the portrait of Bono, where my camera met its tragic end, and then poked around the rest of the art museum. We also checked out the National Museum of Ireland where the gruesome remains of 4 “bog men” are displayed.  Nothing like looking at dessicated corpses right before lunch.

Speaking of food, I am always pleased to report that the days of boiled potatoes and tough mutton dishes are long gone.  Ireland has undergone a culinary renaissance with chefs incorporating ingredients from around the globe while staying true to the ‘buy fresh, buy local’ movement.  Sure, I can order such standards as fish and chips with a pint of stout but I can also indulge in such specialities as Cashel blue cheese tarts or udon noodles topped with squash, mushrooms and green peas.

Where to find all this great food in Dublin?  We frequent old favorites such as the Asian restaurants Cafe Mao and Wagamama and the organic, locally sourced restaurant The Farm.  Elephant and Castle likewise remains a beloved spot.  While its flagship restaurant resides on Waverly in the heart of NY’s Greenwich Village, I am partial to the Temple Bar locale.

After a tough day of wandering Dublin’s crowded streets, checking out all the fine eating, drinking, reading and artsy establishments, Sean and I head back to our spacious room at the Fitzwilliam Hotel.  Overlooking St. Stephen’s Green, the Fitzwilliam is a bit posh by usual travel standards but well worth the extra Euros.   Great location, great services and a great view.

Tags: Food Musings, Travel Tales by Kitchen Kat
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No matter how many times I travel to New Orleans, I remain as in love with this city as I was the very first time.  So many beautiful sites.  So much wonderful food, music and drink.  Is it any wonder why I return again and again to the Crescent City?

Every trip there is different.   One time I might roam around the museums, taking in the Cabildo, Ogden Museum of Southern Art or New Orleans Museum of Art.   Another time it might be a trip to the Audubon Zoo, a plantation tour or boat ride through the swamps.  Then there are the seasonal events such as Mardi Gras, the St. Patrick’s Day Parade and Jazz Fest.  All good stuff.   

On the most recent journey I had the luxury of hanging out with a New Orleanian, my husband’s cousin Mike.  Thanks to him, I could experience life as a local as well as revisit some favorite tourist spots. 

Beignets from Cafe du Monde – They’re a New Orleans institution and a must-have on any trip here.  Soft, warm and blanketed in powdered sugar, these French delicacies hooked me at first bite.  A word of warning:  Wear black and you’ll look as though you’ve had a massive dandruff attack.  The sugar flies everywhere!

The Kerry Irish Pub — Located on Decatur Street in the heart of the French Quarter, the Kerry Irish Pub was recently voted the best place to spend St. Patrick’s Day by USA Today.  Perhaps I’m a tad biased but I think that the Kerry is the best place to while away any day.  Warm atmosphere.  Friendly patrons and staff.   Cold drinks.  Free, live music.  I couldn’t ask for anything more.       

St. Louis Cemetery No. 1 — Live below sea level in a city with strong French ties and you end up burying your dead above ground.  An unexpected outcome is that you attract not only mourners but also tourists to your grave sites.  The oldest and most famous, St. Louis Cemetery No. 1, has been drawing crowds since 1789.  The cemetery houses both the famous and infamous.  This includes the city’s first African-American mayor, Ernest “Dutch” Morial” and voodoo queen Marie Laveau.  You decide which is which.    

Delectable dining — With world renowned restaurants from Emeril Lagasse and Paul Prudhomme and local hot spots such as the French-Italian Irene’s Cuisine and the Spanish-Mediterranean Lola’s, I never go hungry in New Orleans.  After this trip I have two new favorites to add to my list, Coop’s Place and Cafe Envie, both on Decatur Street in the French Quarter.  Fresh, wholesome food, New Orleans style.      

Sazeracs at Tujagues — It wasn’t our drink of choice but a Sazerac from Tujagues is another New Orleans original.  As the bartender stated, it’s ‘alcohol, alcohol, alcohol’ and a tiny bit of sugar.  Made from rye whiskey, bitters, herbsaint, a sugar cube and lemon peel, it packs one huge punch.  Once again, as the bartender said, instruct your friends to sip it; tell your enemies that it’s a shot. 

Live music on every corner — In New York it seems as though almost every other person is an actor.  In New Orleans it’s musicians who reign.  As a result, whether in a club or bar, on a street corner or in a square, you’re bound to hear incredible blues, jazz, rock or even folk.  Great music.  Great fun.      

Tags: Food Musings, Travel Tales by Kitchen Kat
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For heathens (or hedonists) like me, Sunday consists not of rest and religious services but of food and flea markets.   At Isabella’s on Columbus and W. 77th I worship the concept of brunch, that wonderful meal offering me the options of both breakfast and lunch.  As an added bonus, Isabella’s brunch comes with a complimentary Bloody Mary, Bellini, Campari, mimosa or glass of champagne and a basket of raisin-fennel and carrot breads.   Is it any wonder why I bound out of bed?   

Suffering from a terrible sweet tooth, I usually order the carmelized banana-stuffed French toast.  Topped with strawberries macerated in Grand Marnier sauce, it’s both decadent and ever so slightly good for me.  (Just remember, whether sauteed in sugar and butter or soaked in orange liqueur, it’s still fruit.  Or so I keep telling myself.)  On mornings when I’m hankering a cholesterol boost, I opt for Isabella’s smoked salmon Benedict on a buttermilk biscuit with a side of home fries.  And, on those rare Sundays when I’m feeling a tad health conscious, I order the seasonal fruit plate.      

After brunch it’s across the street to the temple of quirky consumption, GreenFlea.  Looking for bronze Buddha, 19th century doorknob, pint of half sours or a sweater from Ecuador?  Greenflea’s got them all and so much more.  With proceeds going to the local school I can splurge on that vintage Clash t-shirt and still head home feeling relatively guilt-free.        

Tags: Food Musings, Travel Tales by Kitchen Kat
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Along with dining out, I do a fair amount of “wining out” while staying in Rhinebeck.  The Hudson Valley has a wealth of small vineyards and wineries — 19 in all – that offer tastings and tours.  I’m partial to the champagne and rural atmosphere of Clinton Vineyards in Clinton Corners but I have also ventured out to visit others on the Hudson Valley Wine Trail, including Allison Wines and Vineyards in Red Hook and Royal Kedem Winery in Milton. 

In addition to the wineries I have gotten my wine fix at the two wine and spirits shops in downtown Rhinebeck.  For a more temperate time I browse the aisles of Hudson Valley Footwear, Rhinebeck Department Store, Home Remedies gifts and furnishings, Hammertown home furnishings, Oblong Books and Music, Cabin Fever Outfitters and Paper Trail stationery store.  Reminiscent of an old five and dime, A.L. Stickel Variety Store on East Market is always a must-stop shop. 

Along with traditional retail stores Rhinebeck boasts of several antiques dealers located within walking distance of one another.  Behind the Beekman Arms sits a red barn housing the two-story Beekman Antique Market.  Across from the Inn on Mill Street Asher House Antiques specializes in imported antiques. Opposite the Beekman on West Market Street Portly Pug Antiques carries art, jewelry, china and other antiquities.   

Sick of shopping, I often opt for an afternoon of mansion hopping.  Within a 25-mile radius I can tour the Vanderbilt Mansion in Hyde Park, landscape painter Frederick Edwin Church’s Persian-style Olana near Hudson, the Greek Revival Mills Mansion in Staatsburgh and the 19th century Montgomery Place, adjacent to Bard College in Annandale-on-the-Hudson.  I can also just stay in Rhinebeck and walk around Wilderstein, a Queen Anne-style estate owned by the cousin and confidant of Franklin D. Roosevelt, Margaret Suckley.

When I’m in Rhinebeck, I’m in the middle of Roosevelt country.  Eleanor Roosevelt’s retreat and permanent home after her husband’s death, Val-Kill, is located in Hyde Park as are FDR’s home of Springwood and the FDR Presidential Museum and Library.  Top Cottage, where Roosevelt entertained world leaders, can also be found here.

The fun doesn’t end with the Roosevelts.  In Hyde Park the Culinary Institute of America gives year-round cooking classes to food enthusiasts.  In warmer months the Old Rhinebeck Aerodrome in Rhinebeck offers air shows, biplane rides and a museum filled with antique cars and planes.  At Upstate Films art and independent movies reign.  So many fun activities.  Is it any wonder why I love Rhinebeck and the surrounding region?     

Tags: Food Musings, Travel Tales by Kitchen Kat
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Gnawed your fingernails to the nubs over worries about the economy, work, health problems or those of your family, friends and pets?  Oh, why not blow a few bucks and escape to New York’s Hudson Valley for the weekend?  The visit will do nothing to replenish your dwindling bank account but it will undoubtedly provide some fun in the cold, winter sun. 

Shortly before Christmas Sean and I returned to our favorite Hudson Valley town of Rhinebeck.  Twenty minutes north of FDR’s home and the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, Rhinebeck offers everything that we crave in a get-away destination.  Historic sites.  Plethora of art, antiques and independently owned shops.  Excellent restaurants.  Independent movie theater.  Wineries.  Farmer’s markets.  All within walking distance of our lodging. 

In terms of lodging, if you want to walk downtown as I always do, you’ll end up at either the Veranda House B&B or the Beekman Arms and Delamater Inn.  Opened in 1766, the Beekman is listed in the Historic Hotels of America and boasts of being America’s oldest operating inn.  

If it’s history you crave, you may experience the 70s — 1970′s — at the Beekman; many of the 73 rooms appear as though they haven’t been renovated since then.  Luckily, since my last stay, the hotel had hired someone to paint the walls in and expose the lovely wood floors in some of the Delamater’s rooms.  As a result, our room looked cheery and bright.

Outside of town, I love the 1745 Olde Rhinebeck Inn and Le Petit Chateau Inn, which is located a few miles from the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park.  With both I can enjoy beautiful surroundings, well-appointed rooms and hot, gourmet breakfasts.  Couldn’t dream of anything better, except, of course, to be able to walk into town.

Perhaps it’s because of the classes that I’ve taken and meals that I’ve eaten there or the fact that so many local restaurants are owned, operated and staffed by Culinary Institute grads but say “Hudson Valley” and I immediately think “CIA.”  The presence of America’s top culinary school has resulted in a great cookware shop, Warren Kitchen and Cutlery in Rhinebeck, and a wealth of outstanding restaurants. 

On campus Sean and I have feasted on local, regional cuisine at American Bounty.  For classic French food we’ve dined at Escoffier.  Hankering quick, casual food, we have turned to the Apple Pie Bakery Cafe.   I’ve yet to make it to St. Andrews Cafe or the Italian Ristorante Caterina De’ Medici  but I suspect that their meals are just as delicious. 

Back in Rhinebeck we have a variety of cuisines from which to choose including French at Le Petit Bistro , Italian at Gigi Trattoria, New American in the former, 19th century Baptist church Terrapin, French-American at Calico, Mediterranean at Arielle and Latin at Sabroso.  While I won’t claim a favorite, I do make a point to stop by Gigi’s for the vegetarian minestrone, Terrapin for portobello mushroom steaks and Sabroso for tapas. 

Craving appetizers or a drink, I might pop into Foster’s Coach House, the Beekman Tavern, the Firebird Lounge (for both drinks, food and pool) or Starr Place.  When I need a bagel fix, I head to Rhinebeck Bagels.  Pastries or diner fare?  For the former I drop by Bread Alone.  For the latter it’s Pete’s Famous, which has locations in both Rhinebeck and Hyde Park. 

Fine food isn’t the only thing on offer in Rhinebeck but for now the other attractions will have to wait.

Tags: Food Musings, Travel Tales by Kitchen Kat
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I used to think that the Macy’s Thanksgiving balloon inflation was an event known only to locals.  Not even my friend Susan, who has lived in NY almost her entire life, has ever walked along Central Park West pre-turkey day night.  Back in 2000, the year that I moved to the city, I breezed past the balloons outside of the Museum of Natural History, stopping when I wanted, taking photos when I felt like it.  I never fought snarky crowds or grumbled about tall people, poofy hair or fuzzy hats blocking my view. 

In the past few years hordes of people have begun showing up for balloon inflation night.  Last night’s turnout along W. 81st to W. 77th and Columbus and Central Park West swelled to ridiculous proportions, as enormous and monstrous as a giant Kermit the Frog pumped up high on helium.  So much for stopping and snapping tons of awesome pictures as I used to do.    

Balloon inflation officially started at 3 o’clock in the afternoon.  Due to a last minute trip to Kitchen Arts and Letters and an apple pie purchase at Zabar’s, Sean and I reached the route a little later than planned, around 5:15.  (Actually, it was Sean and I and roughly 3,500 other gawkers showing up around 5:15.)  Clustered on the corner of Columbus and 79th, we waited what seemed like an eternity before shuffling across the street.  It took another 15 minutes of jostling through the throngs, clutching my Zabar’s bag and hoping that the Thanksgiving dessert survived, before we saw the first balloons — Ronald McDonald and the late Keith Haring’s “heart” – on 77th. 

In spite of the wait and multitudes we arrived in time to watch two remaining balloons go up.  Working beneath weighted nets, men and women hustled to erect Sesame Street’s Abby Cadabby and good old Sponge Bob Square Pants.  

“Fish! Fish! Fish!” a favorite balloon as well as the mantra chanted as it glides down CPW, was already inflated and in place.  Likewise, Snoopy a/k/a the Red Baron, Shrek, Horton, Beethoven, Kermit and the new Smurf — or as some weirdly called it, ”Schumurf” — and Buzz Lightyear were blown up and tied down in anticipation of the next day’s parade.

Along with famous cartoon faces, we and countless others spotted Michael Bloomberg among the balloons.  Cell phones, little digital cameras and even a medium format Mamiya captured Bloomberg as he talked to reporters about the recent MTA terrorist threat.  

Oblivious to the topic or to whom she had photographed, a woman standing smack in front of me yelled out, “I got a picture of Bloomberg!  I got Bloomberg!  Now who’s Bloomberg?”  Guess it’s not a locals thing anymore. 

In the end we spent two hours wandering down 4 blocks, looking at 13 big balloons.   Amazingly, the apple pie survived all the jolts and jiggling.  And so did we!

Tags: Food Musings, Travel Tales by Kitchen Kat
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