December 13th, 2012 § § permalink
It’s my favorite time of the year — time to bake and eat lots of glorious sweets! For bakers and the bakers on your shopping list I offer a few cookbook titles for the holiday season. Included are some oldies but goodies and loads of delicious treats.
The Great British Book of Baking by Linda Collister (Michael Joseph, 2010)
A British import, The Great British Book of Baking delights the Anglophile in me. Yet, you don’t have to love scones or soda bread to appreciate this beautiful book. Featuring 120 classic as well as modern recipes and histories and anecdotes for each, it takes readers on a journey through the best of British baking. Please note that ingredient measurements are in metric.
Maida Heatter’s Cakes by Maida Heatter (Andrews McMeel, 2011)
First published in 1982, Maida Heatter’s Cakes offers 175 reliable, delectable recipes for cakes of countless stripes. Plain, chocolate, layer, fruit, nut, cheese, gingerbread, vegetable . . . you name the cake, this James Beard Award-winning “Queen of Desserts” has it covered. Similar to Heatter’s other timeless dessert books, this cookbook features clear, precise instructions, ensuring that even a novice baker can succeed in making such elaborate creations as Star-Spangled Banner and Black-and-White Layer Cakes.
Piece of Cake by David Muniz and David Lesniak (Rizzoli, 2012)
Written by Americans Muniz and Lesniak, who own and operate London’s first American bakeshop, Outsider Tart, Piece of Cake celebrates quintessential American sweets. Whoopie pies, brownies and cheesecakes all get their due. Likewise, one of my favorites, the humble coffee cake, gets a dash of excitement in such recipes as nutmeg and strawberry rhubarb coffee cakes. Subtitled “Home Baking Made Simple,” this cookbook shows how easy it is to create winning, homemade sweets.
The Great Scandinavian Baking Book by Beatrice Ojakangas (University of Minnesota, 1999)
Whether you’re intrigued by Scandinavia or simply interested in expanding your baking repertoire, you’ll adore The Great Scandinavian Baking Book. Showcasing the baked goods of Sweden, Denmark and Norway as well as Iceland and Finland, the cookbook enables both skilled and first time bakers to make a host of exotic yet wholesome goodies. With concise instructions and detailed illustrations you’ll be braiding your own fragrant cardamom rings and rolling creamy butterhorns in no time.
The Sweeter Side of Amy’s Bread by Amy Scherber and Toy Kim Dupree (Wiley, 2008)
Just typing the title makes me hungry. A longtime fan of Amy’s Bread, I had to own this cookbook. With it in my collection I can whip up unbeatable devil’s food cupcakes, gooey coconut dream bars and cinnamon raisin twists at any place or time. Even if you’ve never tried one of Amy’s heavenly butterscotch cashew bars or ethereal red velvet cake, you’ll end up craving this colorful book. Brimming with over 70 exquisite recipes, The Sweeter Side of Amy’s Bread is a dessert lover’s dream cookbook.
December 6th, 2012 § § permalink
For as long as I can remember, I’ve been a voracious reader. Fiction, non-fiction, newspapers, magazines, websites, blogs, cereal boxes . . .. Thanks to my not-so-secret addiction and a gravitation to the culinary world, I consume a lot of good — and not so good — food writing. Below are the best of what I read in 2012.
Other than having well-written, well-researched, engaging text and being great holiday gifts, there is no common theme for these selections. Nonetheless, you may notice several America-centric books as well as two with “fork” in the title. These are pure coincidences. Next week, noteworthy baking cookbooks.
Taco USA by Gustavo Arellano (Scribner, 2012)
Rest assured – this is not just about tacos. Gustavo Arellano discusses a host of Mexican imports including such beloved foods as salsa, tortillas, burritos and, yes, tacos. He includes profiles of such disparate characters as the founders of Frito-Lay, Old El Paso and Chipotle and the creator of the frozen margarita machine. As you might expect from the title and aforementioned figures, Taco USA delivers a uniquely American take on Mexican cuisine.
White Bread by Aaron Bobrow-Strain (Beacon, 2012)
Ever wonder how Americans came to love and later to disdain loaves of soft, processed, white bread? Even if you haven’t, you’ll still enjoy Aaron Bobrow-Strain’s compelling look at the history of white bread. Detailing the social, economic, political and health conditions surrounding the rise and fall of processed bread, he provides a thoughtful and appealing account of this oft maligned but still fundamental food.
American Terroir by Rowan Jacobsen (Bloomsbury, 2010)
American Terroir shares the spot with Eat the City as my favorite food read of 2012. Fascinating, informative and entertaining, Rowan Jacobsen’s book explores the relationships between soil, climate and food. Profiling such diverse American favorites as maple syrup, salmon, avocados and cheese, he shows just how complex the partnership between earth and food can be. Recipes and buying sources accompany each chapter.
The Art of Fermentation by Sandor Ellix Katz (Chelsea Green, 2012)
An invaluable resource for any serious cook, this books deserves a category of its own. Perhaps ‘outstanding reference manual for home fermenters’ for that describes The Art of Fermentation perfectly. Filled with historical, cultural, nutritional and practical information, Katz’s book is written for both novices and old hands at home fermenting. Whether you’re interested in making sauerkraut, want to cure meat, or just curious about how sodas and beer get their fizz, you’ll find this book illuminating.
A Fork in Asia’s Road by John Krich (Marshall Cavendish, 2012)
Intrepid travelers, adventuresome eaters and fans of Asian cuisine will appreciate A Fork in Asia’s Road. In 50 short essays John Krich looks at the foods and food fads of such countries as China, India, Singapore, Malaysia, Vietnam and Japan. Covering such themes as food as novelty, history, politics and science, he provides a colorful, first-hand glimpse at this region’s surprising cuisines.
Eat the City by Robin Shulman (Crown, 2012)
In this well-crafted book of culinary journalism and social history Robin Shulman looks at the past and present food producers of New York City. From rooftop beekeepers and East River fishermen to the shuttered Domino Sugar factory and Fourteenth Street Market she explores how people live and eat off the land, even when much of that land is covered by concrete. Revealing and captivating, Eat the City will charm fans of good writing, history, urban farming and, of course, NYC.
Consider the Fork by Bee Wilson (Basic Books, 2012)
Dubbed “A history of how we cook and eat,” Consider the Fork delves into the backgrounds of such fundamental tools as knives, spoons, mortars and pestles and chopsticks. Bee Wilson’s narrative also covers such basic techniques as measuring, blending, heating and chilling, showing readers how each everyday act came into being. Chocked full of interesting facts and illustrations, it’s both a charming and enlightening book.
Although I won’t provide reviews, I want to mention a few other memorable reads from 2012. These include Upton Sinclair’s seminal fictional account of the meatpacking industry, The Jungle (Doubleday, 1906) and the non-fiction The End of the Line: How Overfishing is Changing the World and What We Eat by Charles Clover (New Press, 2006), The Last Fish Tale by Mark Kurlansky (Riverhead, 2009), Empires of Food by Evan D.G. Fraser and Andrew Rimas (Arrow, 2011), The Sushi Economy by Sasha Issenberg (Gotham, 2008) and Jancis Johnson’s The Oxford Companion to Wine (Oxford University Press, 2006).
November 29th, 2012 § § permalink
As a food writer, occasional reviewer and all-around fan of cookbooks, I have a long list of favorite books. Each year the lineup grows to include recent publications as well as titles new to my collection. Below are the best from my 2012 acquisitions. Whether you’re holiday shopping or just browsing for yourself, the following will be wonderful additions to any kitchen shelf. Next week . . . a few fabulous baking and culinary history books.
For the Love of Food by Denis Cotter (Collins, 2011)
In his fourth cookbook Irish chef and restauranteur Denis Cotter serves up a wealth of quick, flavorful vegetarian recipes. Over the course of nine chapters he covers such sumptuous dishes as Portobello and roast tomato florentine, orecchiette with broad beans and baby courgettes, and citrus, sultana and maple rice pudding with raspberries. Once again, Cotter offers creative meals that will delight both vegetarians and meat-eaters.
Burma by Naomi Duguid (Artisan, 2012)
Maybe you love to learn about exotic lands. Perhaps you crave a new cuisine to cook. In either case you’ll want to explore Burma. In this beautifully photographed tome Naomi Duguid takes readers on a cultural and culinary journey through this formerly isolated region. Through 125 detailed recipes she exposes the warmth and exoticism of the Southeast Asian country known as Burma or Myanmar.
Mediterranean Fresh by Joyce Goldstein (Norton, 2008)
If you know someone who wants to eat more healthfully and interestingly, then Mediterranean Fresh is the cookbook to give to him. Featuring 110 salad and 30 dressing recipes, Joyce Goldstein’s book showcases the wholesome ingredients and flavors of the Mediterranean. As the book jacket claims, “there is more to salads than the salad bar.”
Modern Sauces by Martha Holmberg (Chronicle Books, 2012)
One part reference manual plus one part techniques class plus one part recipe book equals an invaluable cookbook. In Modern Sauces Martha Holmberg shows how to create such classics as bechamel, hollandaise and sabayon and use them in such modern dishes as smoked salmon Benedict bites and rum-soaked prune and frangipane tart with maple-rum sabayon. Featuring over 150 recipes and handy tips, Holmberg’s book is a must-have for any serious cook.
My Vietnam by Luke Nguyen (Lyons Press, 2011)
As a fan of Vietnamese cuisine and a recent traveler in Vietnam, I am smitten with Luke Nguyen’s personal look at regional Vietnamese cooking. To learn why, see my January 2012 review at Zester Daily.
Jerusalem by Yotam Ottolenghi and Sami Tamimi (Ten Speed Press, 2012)
Last year I recommended both Ottolenghi and Plenty as holiday gifts. This year I’m touting Ottolenghi’s and Tamimi’s exploration of their homeland, Jerusalem. With gorgeous, illustrative photographs and easy-to-follow recipes for such dishes as marinated sweet and sour fish and semolina, coconut and marmalade cake it’s sure to become a favorite of yours/your gift recipient.
Bitters by Brad Thomas Parsons (Ten Speed Press, 2011)
Brad Thomas Parsons provides readers with a fascinating look at the storied cocktail ingredient bitters. Through histories, engaging anecdotes, flavor profiles and recipes for both classic and modern drinks, he takes the mystery out of this powerful and aromatic spirit. Even if you never mix a “Horse’s Neck” or own a bottle of bitters, you’ll enjoy reading this engaging book.
December 8th, 2011 § § permalink
With everyone rushing about, searching for holiday gifts, I’d like to suggest a few outstanding cookbooks for your shopping lists. This year I’ve slipped into full Anglophile mode, with four of my seven recommended titles coming from British authors. Yet, no matter from what side of the Atlantic these cooks come, their books will make delightful presents for the food lovers in your lives.
Canal House Cooking by Christopher Hirsheimer and Melissa Hamilton (Canal House)
Created by a founding editor of Saveur and the head of that magazine’s test kitchen, Canal House Cooking is a cookbook-cum-food magazine. It comes out three times per year, covering summer, fall and the holidays and winter and spring. Clothbound, ad-free and chocked full of wholesome recipes, it’s a culinary publication unlike any other. Filled with gorgeous photos and warm, funny anecdotes, it’s also a gift that your recipient will cherish throughout the year.
River Cottage Handbook No. 8 Cakes by Pam Corbin (Bloomsbury, 2011)
For bakers and sweets fans consider the latest offering from Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall’s River Cottage Handbook series, Cakes. In this straightforward and delightful tome writer Pam Corbin explores the techniques for making great baked goods each and every time. Classic British confections such as fairy cakes and Grasmere gingerbread appear alongside such modern goodies as mocha cake and dog bone biscuits. Fascinating and fun, Cakes is a lovely addition to anyone’s cookbook collection.
660 Curries by Raghavan Iyer ( Workman, 2008)
Know someone who loves Indian food? Then 660 Curries is the cookbook to give. In it James Beard finalist and IACP award winner Raghavan Iyer provides readers with tips, techniques and recipes for making over 600 outstanding Indian curries. With this comprehensive yet user-friendly cookbook in the kitchen they’ll never order out for chicken tikka masala or naan again.
Artisan Cheese Making at Home by Mary Karlin (Ten Speed Press, 2011)
The perfect book for the cheese lover or ardent DIY cook, Artisan Cheese Making at Home takes readers through making their own dairy-based products. For more details on this fascinating book check out my review at Zester Daily.
Plenty by Yotam Ottolenghi (Chronicle Books, 2011) and Ottolenghi by Yotam Ottolenghi (Ebury Press, 2008)
I reviewed Yotam Ottolenghi’s wonderful second cookbook in late 2010 and then received his first book, Ottolenghi, earlier this year. Unlike the vegetable-focused Plenty, his eponymous book focuses on the array of Middle Eastern-inspired foods featured in his London restaurant. Like Plenty, Ottolenghi includes gorgeous photos and sumptuous, creative dishes. Unlike Plenty, the recipes must be converted from metric.
Tender by Nigel Slater (Ten Speed Press, 2011)
Another cookbook that I reviewed earlier this year, Tender shares the gardening and cooking experiences of British food writer Nigel Slater. The first of two volumes, Tender covers 29 vegetables. The subsequent volume, which is only available in Europe at present, looks at fruit. Each provides a beautiful, insightful exploration of growing and cooking your own foods.
December 2nd, 2011 § § permalink
I confess — I’ve struggled with a lifelong addiction to books. You need only look at my overflowing bookshelves, desk, nightstand, coffee table . . . really any flat surface in my house and you will see the ridiculous number of books on which I’ve become hooked.
Culinary narratives are invariably part of my stash. Call it an occupational hazard or personal weakness but I just can’t escape the lure of food writing.
Below are the high points of my 2011 culinary reading list. Some are recent releases. A few are a bit older. All would make great gifts for the food lovers and ardent home cooks in your life. Look for these titles at your local independent bookstores or online from such independent sellers as Kitchen Arts and Letters, Powell’s and The Strand.
A Day at El Bulli by Ferran Adria (Phaidon Press, 2008)
Although Chef Ferran Adria has shuttered his world-renowned restaurant, you can still get a glimpse inside his temple to molecular gastronomy, El Bulli. A Day at El Bulli provides 600 beautifully illustrated pages covering a day in the life of the restaurant. By the time that you’ve reached the final page, you’ll feel as though you’ve not only dined many times but also worked behind the stove at this seminal restaurant.
Bringing It to the Table by Wendell Berry (Counterpoint, 2009)
Long before Michael Pollan got folks to question how and what they ate, there was Wendell Berry. Longtime writer, scholar and farmer, Berry has extolled the virtues of sustainable agriculture and eating for over five decades. This collection presents some of Berry’s best non-fiction writings on these topics. It’s essential reading for anyone concerned about mindful eating and living.
Food Play by Saxton Freyman and Joost Elffers (Chronicle Books, 2006)
My guilty pleasure and culinary photography recommendation for the past five years, Food Play provides the most fun that anyone will ever have looking at food. Featuring whimsical tableaus of fruits and veggies, this colorful book will delight readers of any age. I mean, really, who wouldn’t adore looking at strawberry dogs or a flock of cauliflower sheep?
Four Fish by Paul Greenberg (Penguin, 2011)
Anyone who eats fish should receive a copy of Paul Greenberg’s book. Intelligent, witty and always fascinating, Four Fish explores man’s long, troubled relationship with cod, salmon, sea bass and tuna, the four fish that dominate our menus. Greenberg, who is a lifelong fisherman as well as a seasoned writer, provides a balanced yet page turning account of the crises facing fish today.
Blood, Bones & Butter by Gabrielle Hamilton (Random House, 2011)
Whether you’re a fan of her writings in the New York Times or of her Lower East Side restaurant Prune or just looking for a good culinary memoir, check out Gabrielle Hamilton’s long-awaited first book. Entertaining and sharp, Hamilton shares her unique, often rocky path to becoming a chef. As with any good chef or writer, her memoir will leave you hungering for more.
What Caesar Did for My Salad by Albert Jack (Perigee Trade, 2011)
Ever wonder how pasta or picnics came to be? What gave rise to and constitutes a full English breakfast? Why we call small, cooked sausages hot dogs? If so, Albert Jack’s fascinating tome is the book for you. What Caesar Did for My Salad looks at the origins of and fabled tales about some of our favorite foods. It’s a fun book for trivia lovers as well as diehard foodies.
Eating Mud Crabs in Kandahar Edited by Matt McAllester (University of California Press, 2011)
Even if your gift recipients didn’t have that childhood dream of becoming a war correspondent as I did, they will enjoy McAllester’s compilation of food tales from reporters in conflict zones. His riveting book looks at what it means to eat and what folks resort to eating in times of extreme hardship and violence. Intimate and engaging, these stories will stick with readers for months to come.
A History of the World in 6 Glasses by Tom Standage (Walker Publishing, 2006)
If you have history buffs on your shopping list, consider giving them A History of the World in 6 Glasses. Here British journalist Tom Standage explores six drinks — wine, beer, spirits, coffee, tea and soda — that shaped world history. Once your friends and loved ones have read Standage’s compelling book, they’ll never look at, or drink, a can of Coke the same way.
August 16th, 2011 § § permalink
I grew up with a parent who loathed Martha Stewart. Mention her name and my dad would become apoplectic. “That woman! She’s . . .!”
I never understood it. After all, it was my mother, not he, who cooked the family meals and did our decorating. Who knows? Maybe he envied folks who ate bouillabaisse and coq au vin at a table adorned with homemade pine cone centerpieces and dried wild flower napkin rings. Whatever the cause, I knew that bringing a Martha Stewart cookbook or magazine into the house was tantamount to treason. That I’m a fan of one of her cookbooks, well, I can imagine what he’d say – Judas! Yet, I have to admit that I like her latest offering, Martha Stewart’s Pies & Tarts.
Compiled by the editors of Martha Stewart Living, Martha Stewart’s Pies & Tarts provides 150 simple to mildly difficult recipes for pies and tarts. Whether I’m pressed for time or able to spend a few hours in the kitchen, this book has an array of sweet and savory treats to suit my needs. Need a quick, seasonal or chocked-full-of-chocolate dessert? I’ll whip together a phyllo tart with sugared pluots or chocolate cream pie. Want something different for dinner? I’ll make the leek and olive tart or Alsatian potato pie. All are easy and utterly delicious.
Divided into 10 chapters, the cookbook begins with “Classic,” 10 recipes for such perennial favorites as lemon meringue, pumpkin and lattice-top blueberry pie. It then moves on to one of my preferred pie types, “Free Form,” unstructured creations that need neither pie pans nor fussy adornments. Galettes, crostatas and phyllo tarts fall into this category as do, oddly enough, hand-held pies. As these must be formed with cookie or biscuit cutters, hand-held pies seem better suited to the “Rustic” rather than “Free Form” chapter. It’s a small complaint in an otherwise solid baking book.
For newcomers or those requiring a refresher in pie baking, Martha Stewart’s Pies & Tarts goes over the basics in a section entitled, sensibly enough, “The Basics.” Here readers learn how to poach fruit, make a meringue as well as a variety of doughs and craft fancy pie crusts. All of the techniques needed to create a good pie can be found at the back of the book.
As much as it would drive my late father crazy, I’ve found Martha Stewart’s Pies & Tarts to be a big crowd pleaser. It’s a welcomed addition to my cookbook collection. No doubt it will be the same for you, too.
July 12th, 2011 § § permalink
Every now and then I get a cookbook that I not only love but also make one of my best kitchen friends. Among the members of this exclusive bunch is Nigella Lawson’s Feast (Hyperion, 2004). Similar to her first book How to Eat, Feast never fails to chase away my cooking blues or tantalize my taste buds.
Possessing the tag lines “food to celebrate life” and “a feast for every reason,” Feast presents its recipes according to events. Halloween, Easter, New Year’s and Valentine’s Day all have sections as do weddings, funerals, breakfast, meatless dinners and midnight feasts. Lawson provides a little something for practically every occasion and includes her lively wit and humor with each recipe.
Thumb through my copy of Feast and you’ll notice little scraps of paper scattered throughout the book. The first appears on page 44. Like the others that follow, this faded receipt indicates an exceptional dish, in this case for pink picante shrimp. Served as both an appetizer and an entree, Lawson’s paprika- and pink peppercorn-studded shrimp garner rave reviews every time.
Another hit comes just two pages later in the form of snow-flecked brownies. Divinely rich and gooey, these white chocolate-studded brownies always satisfy. The same can be said for Lawson’s chocolate Guinness cake. Iced with an ethereal cream cheese frosting that bears a striking resemblance to the head on its dry stout namesake, chocolate Guinness cake remains a delight for the eyes as well as the palate. Whether I’ve taken it to a holiday party, served it for a birthday or just shared it with friends, this gorgeous sweet gets showered with compliments.
Along with countless opportunities to be bathed in praise, Feast supplies me with interchangeable, festive recipes that can be used throughout the year. Replace the frozen peas with fresh in Halloween’s slime soup and I have a lovely soup that celebrates spring’s bounty. Similarly, Rosh Hashanah’s pomegranate jewel cake works wonders at Christmastime while New Year’s bitter endive salad dazzles in spring.
Entertaining, informative text. Versatile, accessible recipes. Useful cooking tips. It’s no wonder that Feast is one of my best kitchen buds.
June 27th, 2011 § § permalink
Come over for dinner more than a few times and you’re bound to re-experience my white chocolate-almond cake, strawberry yogurt pie and warm chocolate puddings. The reason for the repetition is pretty straightforward — I have about a dozen good desserts in my repertoire. If you’re in a similar position, I would suggest taking a glance at Bill Yosses’s and Melissa Clark’s The Perfect Finish (W.W. Norton and Co., 2010).
You may recognize Yosses as the White House’s executive pastry chef and Clark as a food columnist for the New York Times. In The Perfect Finish the two culinary pros come together to share 80 exquisite, easy-to-make sweets. These are desserts that anyone would be happy to add to her collection.
Organized according to occasion, the book begins with a section on muffins, scones, breads and pastries, foods that work perfectly for breakfast or brunch. Hence the chapter’s title, “Come for Brunch.” Cookies feature prominently in the next chapter, “Pick-Me-Ups.” Along with familiar favorites such as chocolate chip cookies and brownies, I found such uncommon treats as chocolate peanut crinkles, chocolate chunk cookies with Nutella and blood orange squares.
For more formal events I’ve turned to the chapters “I’ll Bring Dessert” and “Restaurant Desserts That You Can Make at Home.” Here I’ve gotten recipes for such memorable meal endings as lemon tart brulee and blueberry jelly roll.
Because I own several Bundt pans, I’m always on the lookout for interesting and successful Bundt cakes. Much to my delight, The Perfect Finish provides two reliable recipes. For the warmer months I have the lovely blackberry buttermilk Bundt with orange glaze. During colder months I have the redolent gingerbread Bundt with freshly ground spices.
Although it provides a smattering of treats — everything from cakes, pies, tarts and waffles to puddings, trifles and sundaes is covered in the book — each recipe is unique and works as written. Thanks to The Perfect Finish, I can introduce a range of divine, new desserts to my dinner guests.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Since writing this, I made another dessert, red eye devil’s food cake, that was grossly inaccurate. The cake portion of the recipe calls for 2 cups (8 ounces) of strongly brewed coffee. Two cups equals 16, not 8, ounces. I went with the 8-ounce weight measurement for the coffee. Likewise, the ganache recipe for the cake calls for 3 cups of heavy cream and 14 ounces of chopped chocolate. With 3 cups of cream I ended up with a chocolate soup, not a chocolate frosting. I used all the semi-sweet chocolate that I had on hand (26 ounces total) as well as 3/4 cup of ground sweet chocolate; only then did the concoction resemble a ganache. As this same measurement is used in the recipe for chestnut cake with milk chocolate ganache, I would have the identical issue there. Needless to say, I retract what I said about the recipes working as written.
June 13th, 2011 § § permalink
Ask me to bake a cake and I can whip up something in a snap. Ask me to decorate that cake, to make it cute and whimsical, and I start to panic. As much as I love a bit of kitsch in the kitchen, I’m a disaster at making food fun. My smiley face pancakes will make you cry. Swan napkins? Complete ugly ducklings. Yet, somehow I’ve managed to recreate many of the adorable cupcakes featured in Karen Tack’s and Alan Richardson’s Hello Cupcake (Houghton Mifflin Company, 2008) and What’s New, Cupcake? (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2010).
Similar to its predecessor, What’s New, Cupcake? offers an assortment of clever but easy cupcake designs. Along with the ducks pictured on its cover, it provides steps for constructing dogs, squirrels, skunks, moose, flamingos, crocodiles, hippos, polar bears and walruses. Animals not your favorite? How about chrysanthemums, roses, apples, golf greens, badminton shuttlecocks, karaoke microphones and ants on a picnic? Follow Tack’s and Richardson’s concise instructions and you can craft any of these.
Since I’m a sucker for Halloween, I first tried jack-o-lanterns. Smart move as these proved to be among the easiest cupcakes in the book. Simply tint store-bought vanilla frosting with orange food coloring and cocoa powder and pipe the colored frosting in rows on top of the cupcakes. Soften Tootsie Rolls and yellow Starbursts in the microwave, roll them out and cut them into eyes, noses and mouths. Place the cut outs on each frosted cupcake. Shove a pretzel twist into space above the eyes and you’ve got a stem and a finished jack-o-lantern.
Elaborate items, such as stuffed turkeys and blow-up lawn santas, are unquestionably time consuming. However, thanks to clear steps, illustrations and photographs in What’s New, Cupcake?, they aren’t all that difficult. As the cover of the first book states, these are “irresistibly playful creations that anyone can make.” Believe me, if I can turn a plain cupcake into an angry rat or plump, playful ghost, you can, too.
While I adore the creativity of these cupcakes, I don’t love the reliance upon store-bought frostings. In the case of “hound dogs” I ended up substituting homemade chocolate ganache for the required canned chocolate icing. The resulting hound dog looked the same but tasted fresher and more chocolaty than the ones slathered in commercially-produced frosting. Nonetheless, store-bought is much simpler and can be more consistent than homemade so, unless you have the extra time and a fool-proof recipe, stick with the requirements in What’s New, Cupcake?. You’re bound to create cute and clever cupcakes and have some fun in the kitchen, too.
June 6th, 2011 § § permalink
With grilling season in full swing I’m sharing another quality cookbook devoted to the barbecue. Back in April I had raved about Francis Mallman’s Seven Fires Grilling the Argentinian Way (Artisan, 2009). Today Steven Raichlen’s Barbecue Planet! (Workman, 2010) has captured my attention and my trusty Coleman. Covering six continents and 60 countries, Planet Barbecue! is aimed not only at globetrotting but also at curious cooks. Filled with color photos and over 300 global recipes, it provides a fascinating glimpse at how people around the world grill food.
If you like to grill, you’ve probably encountered Steven Raichlen in one form or another. He hosts the PBS cooking series “Primal Grill with Steven Raichlen,” possesses a line of grill tools and seasonings, blogs about grilling and writes award-winning cookbooks on – what else – grilling. He’s been called ‘America’s grill expert.’ After reading and cooking from Planet Barbecue! I understand why. This is a highly comprehensive yet user-friendly book.
Planet Barbecue! starts with a brief discourse on the discovery of fire and beginnings of barbecuing. After providing a time line as well suggestions for eco-conscious grilling, it moves into techniques and recipes. Here barbecued starters, salads, breads, meats, poultry, seafood, vegetables and desserts all get their due.
What I’ve found particularly appealing are the sections on grilled salads and breads. Too often I just grill peppers, eggplants, zucchini and tomatoes and serve them with a splash of lemon juice and olive oil. I overlook the fact that, by chopping my veg and adding a few herbs, spices and uncooked vegetables to them, I can create a vibrant salad. A perfect example is Raichlen’s grilled eggplant salad with Jerusalem flavors, which features grilled tomato and eggplant as well as garlic, walnuts, parsley, Greek yogurt and tahini. It’s quick, easy and much more intriguing than my usual barbecued vegetable offerings.
The chapter on grilled breads has equally piqued my interest. As Raichlen points out, baking bread over fire is not a new technique; archeological evidence indicates that as far back as 2600 B.C. people cooked bread over charcoal. Even today South American arepas, Indian papadoms, Turkish pide and South African rooster brood are made this way. Thanks to the inclusion of basic dough recipes and bread grilling tips, I can create these special breads on my own grill.
As one might expect, the cookbook does address such barbecue standards as ribs, steaks, burgers and kebabs. However, the burgers are as likely to be Balkan grilled veal and pork burgers as they are to be classic American hamburgers. The kebabs? They could come in the form of chicken or shrimp or the more exotic lamb, goat or mashed potatoes, the last of which is also known as “knish on a stick.” That’s one of the many aspects that I love about Raichlen’s book — I receive ample portions of both the familiar and the exotic, all for my grill.
